Search results matching tag 'VBAK'

VBAK w/ Akitadog Coil Relocation

Midnyt Lyts — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Churchkey VBAK intake kit with Akitadog aluminum coil relocation plate

Rightside cleanup, airbox removed, new mount & cover installed. VBAK installed & AIS removed

ravener — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Rightside cleanup for under $25.00.

DIY VBAK - photo 2

c2000 — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 04:00:00 GMT

DIY Vbak. ABS 45° street elbow w/UNI Pod filters, 3/8 breathers

DIY VBAK

c2000 — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 04:00:00 GMT

DIY Vbak. ABS 45° street elbow w/UNI Pod filters, 3/8 breathers

Re: Plastic liner in tank?

gilly — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 04:00:00 GMT

You can also run a hose from your car tailpipe into the filler neck on the tank,and let the car run for about 10 or 15 minutes. I use to make aluminum gas tanks,and if I had to weld on a used tank, this was the method we used. It really works.

Re: Problem with coil relocation plate & V-BAK

AlanH — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="baclay9"]

I guess I just need to do some more moving around until I get it right. I got so frustrated with it yesterday I had to walk away from it. I did start the bike for a minute though so I guess I got everything hooked up correctly. Let me ask you this. I wound the excess plug wires for the rear cylinder up ontop of the rear cylinder head. The rear facing K & N seems to be pretty cramped back there between the wireing harness, the plug wires, and the FPR relocation. I guess it will get plenty of air. It just doesn't have near the openess of the front facing filter[/quote] The rectifier, horn & brake light switch wiring all remain on top and run across the area where the coils & LCV were mounted. They come out of the back of the main harness and hug the bottom of the top wishbone frame at the neck and run on the left down tube as originally built.

I suggest you look at the previous photo threads provided earlier and open the photos full size for the details

Larger Image Here shows the FPR location, etc: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3089/2778964891_8a5132a955_o.jpg

Vent Tubes: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2359/2253703065_48ffcec7a8_o.jpg & http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2300/2253703329_08d9fc39c6_o.jpg

Right Side Cyl 1 Ignition Wire Routing: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2296/1686984136_94cbce0849_o.jpg

Re: Problem with coil relocation plate & V-BAK

AlanH — Tue, 19 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="baclay9"]

I put the Akitadog plate and the V-BAK on and am having a small problem. Everything went together good but my tank isn't fitting right. I can tell one of the coils is touching the front facing velocity stack. I have adjusted the stack every which way I can but it still touches. The touching doesn't bother me I just don't think it is letting the plate sit low enough and something is hitting the tank. The plate itself is sitting about 1/4 inch below the top of the frame rail. Does that sound about right? I can get the tank bolted down but there is about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of resistance. Then when it is bolted down the tank sits up a quarter inch or so. What am I doing wrong?[/quote]If using Churkey's V-Bak be sure that the short side of the SS elbow faces the rubber sleeve and throttle body. You can also remove a small scalloped segment at the top edge of the rubber sleeve on the inside of the elbow to aid in pointing the stack slightly down and closer to the valve cover.

On my install, the left coil, Cyl 1, has the primary leads facing fwd and the secondary (plug wires) facing toward the rear. The K&N filters adjust eccentrically which is obvious and just clear the LCV. This allows the coil relocate plate to be depressed within the frame.

Here are some detailed photos of the mods. Hopefully they will shed some light!

AAkitadog's Coil and sensor relocate plate: http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604625531/detail/

Churhkey's V-Bak: http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604621931/detail/

Left Coil, Cyl 1, Bottom Rear View - Taken from right side of bike looking toward throttle cables

Left Coil for No. 1 Cyl showing routing of Hi-Tension Wiring.

Re: Fuel tank vent hoses

AlanH — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 05:00:00 GMT

Mine is run similar to Churchkey's except that i retained the roll over valve

Re: bike will not idle and pops through throttle body

AlanH — Thu, 09 Aug 2007 04:00:00 GMT

This sounds familar. See if these threads help you out:
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25983/378121.aspx#378121
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/57975/820755.aspx#820755

Edited:
The black plug for the atmospheric pressure sensor that doesn't have a vacuum hose has a solid pink wire!
The No. 1 cyl (Rear) Intake APS is Pink/White & Black Plug
The No. 2 cyl (Front) Intake APS is Pink/Yellow & Gray Plug

Re: Coil Relocation - where to run the loom?

AlanH — Mon, 06 Aug 2007 04:00:00 GMT

fierysport ... Here's your fix []
The Pink/White wire belongs on the rear Intake APS Cyl 1 as i stated in the Yankee forum. Be sure you have the vacuum line connected as shown. Happy to see you solved your self inflicted problem [] LOL
ozwarrior... thanks for the compliment [:I]

It never ceases to amaze me that what starts out as so simple becomes so over complicated. When i did this mod a couple of months ago i incorrectly identified the front cyl primary coil wires and it drove me crazy [] Fact is i don't know that it makes any difference with the polarity to this day....