Search results matching tag 'Tool'

Re: Transfer Case Plug - Need help!

AlanH — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 04:00:00 GMT

For the normal R&R of this radiused plug my tool of choice is a std bike cone wrench that has the tight radius side cut-off so that i don't need to remove the exhaust. The idea came from another member's post early on

Re: Rear Hub Needle Bearing

AlanH — Sun, 30 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Scott"]

Ahhhhh...thx! I remember these now....yep, i bet this would have worked! I should have stopped and asked the 4m before i wasted my bearing.

[/quote]My tool of choice for seal extraction is using a 5/16"-3/8" wide thin flat bladed screw driver (no sharp edges) and drive it in-between the bottom of the seal and machined hole. I use the outer perimeter edge of the c'bored hole to pry against while twisting the screw driver. I protect this edge i'm prying against with a flexible pc of semi rigid nylon strap or small plastic sheet.

The hub needle brg is very difficult to save the 1st time around and also the most expensive. . It might be possible to use the stepped collar (15) to drive/press the needle brg out after removing the circlip (21) . You'll need to chk that the large diameter of (15) will pass through the small I.D. of the hub and report back here so we can be smart like you.

A heat gun used prudently with proper drift punches or sockets can be used to extract the brg's.

Wheel Bearing Removal by kichigai: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/26954/388223.aspx#388223

How to get rear wheel bearings out: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/24882/366817.aspx#366817

Specialty Tools as suggested by Darkstar: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/53074/713787.aspx#713787

CLICK on PARTS PHOTO to ENLARGE

Re: First Time Oil Change Observations...

AlanH — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 04:00:00 GMT

I do the oil & filter changes (several hrs after a ride w/ engine warm) with the bike on the side stand only. My ride is lowered 1" so i access both oil drain plugs from the right side of the bike only.

My tool of choice for the drain plugs are a 12pt professional series 17mm combination wrench w/ 15 deg offset head that works great for the crankcase plug when flipped in the offset position w/ the handle closest to me working from the right side. Filter removal is accomplished w/ a ChannelLock pliers . ... i use a shallow 3-qt drain pan to catch the oil.

Refill is just as easy. 3-qts out of the gate. Close oil fill cap....start engine for approx 15-20 sec's. Add additional 2-qts if using petroleum fluid or 1-1/2 qts w/o oil filter change

Re: Torque wrench calculations

AlanH — Tue, 13 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT

Here's a chart http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/torque/torque.html if you use a tool like this as an extension adapter http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/20933/325250.aspx#325250 . In the enclosed photo it's being applied at a right angle which doesn't require a multiplier.

Re: Tightening the belt with bigshots.

AlanH — Wed, 20 Jun 2007 04:00:00 GMT

I basically do the same thing except i use the bike lift to change the geometry of the adjust bolts/nuts to allow access with wrenches.

Tools that i use are:
12mm crowfoot
12mm std combo box wrench
12mm special offset open end wrench as shown below

quote:
Originally posted by bigjohnson

i put the bike on the side stand and lean across from left to right to help compress the suspension which will lower the pipes from the axle adjusters and you can get better access to it or have a friend or somesome sit on the bike while you adjust. hope that helps...

Re: Tool for transfer case oil fill hole? without mar

AlanH — Mon, 14 May 2007 04:00:00 GMT

Suzuki 80w-90 hypoid gear oil is fine. I use Valvoline 80w-90 and change out evry season.

Yes, .42qt is 13.5oz ... there is a small sight/full hole adjacent to the fill port. Be sure your bike is level when you do the change. No need to overfill.

Here's a tip: Use Aluminum Foil to capture & redirect unwanted fluids from spilling on bike []

Re: Swing arm bearings too big

AlanH — Wed, 28 Mar 2007 04:00:00 GMT

IMO, this is not the proper tool for installing ball beraings (BB) [:0] It's a seal driver and brg driver for the cup of a tapered brg (outer race)

BB's should be pressed on the outer race which this tool wont do.

Will work for the swingarm & hub needle brg's but is to large to fully seat the brg's

Any stray plating can be removed from the brg bores with a fine Dremel buff as shown. It's important to clean this area up to the parent metal and nothing more. Premature brg failure will result from over pressed brg's in plated bores.

Finishing Abrasive Buffs - 180 & 280 grit (2 Pack)

[

Re: 06 front pulley nut size?

AlanH — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 04:00:00 GMT

As RatPhlem said a 6 pt socket is best for this application as well as for chrome or SS hex hd bolts to preserve the finish

Re: Tool used to remove forward caliper cap

AlanH — Tue, 13 Mar 2007 04:00:00 GMT

The 5-Star plugs do come out and there is a rubber seal although i've not done the task.

The material is aluminum, probably 6061, often referred to as Billet Aluminum and they are clear anodized on the Warrior and color anodized on other Yamaha sports bikes

The calipers are also anodized and because of the high silicon content of the casting & the anodic process used will turn dark. Check my response to this thread, Rear Brake Bracket Paint Question:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=38014

Here's another recent thread that's interesting, front caliper leak help!:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48930

I ended up passing several pm's to topgun and it turned out that the seals weren't reinstalled [:0] and a tool was ground from the end of a flat file to fit into or across the star. []
It was my curiosity of what type of tool was used to remove the plugs that attracted my attention and follow up to the post.

A special thanks to CBRMat for sharing some propraritary information that i passed on to topgun []

Re: Tool used to remove forward caliper cap

AlanH — Mon, 12 Mar 2007 04:00:00 GMT

If you want to preserve the finish of the anodized plugs i suspect you'll need to fab a special tool

Here's something that i designed and never fab'd. 3 dowel pins would suffice or (3) soc hd scr's:

A pc of flat stock with radius edges that fits snuggly across 2-pts of the star using an adjustable wrench would probably work as well. I expect that there might be some bruising to the plugs using the flat stock.