Search results matching tag 'TPS'

Re: Interesting!

AlanH — Sat, 09 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

SWODude .... i realize that this is also a discussion forum and we are all entitled to contribute ....

IMO, it behooves you to read this topic and the enclosed hyperlinks within it: Engine Sensors 101 - Extracts fr Chapter 1 - Hyperlinked

Sensors are input devices that send information or feedback to the ECU. They are not decision makers.

The ECU makes decisions based on the inputs and triggers the outputs, such as the injectors, coils, relays etc.

The CPS is a reluctance device that generates a voltage that is inputed to the ECU. Without this info the bike is stone dead in the water.

The common failure of the TPS is a flat spot in the resistor windings as the TPS wiper passes over the area causing an erratic signal to the ECU. The factory recall bulletin has the details.

Bottom line, i can't ever remember reading about any member being stuck on the side of the road for a so called confirmed defective TPS.

On the other hand, many a member can attest to being stranded on the side of the highway or a near fatal episode while riding because of a failed CPS which have come in many many different flavors than you have described here

A cracked CPS wire can create intermittent engine problems that might be perceived as a faulty TPS w/o displaying any fault code!

Re: Sputtering @ 1900 rpm all the time

AlanH — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SWODude"]

Here's step 3, from page 7-64 of the manual:

[quote user="Service Manual"]

3. Adjust:

• throttle position sensor angle

a. Disconnect the throttle position sensor coupler

from the throttle position sensor.

b. Connect the pocket tester (Ω × 1k) to the

throttle position sensor.

Positive tester probe → blue 1

Negative tester probe → black 2

c. Measure the throttle position sensor maximum

resistance.

d. Calculate the throttle position sensor maximum

resistance when the throttle is closed.

Throttle position sensor maximum
resistance (throttle is fully closed) =
Maximum resistance × (0.13 ~ 0.15)

[/quote]

So am I missing something here? If ~~black~~ BLUE -black resistance should be constant, then why are they telling me in Step 3 that the resistance should be lower with the throttle closed? And if my TPS were fine, then why do I get the sputter with abrupt throttle changes, especially when I hit bumps or potholes? And no, I'm not getting any trouble codes or warning lights. [/quote]NOTE: The photos in my 1st reply have been edited with details of the procedure! Also, our manuals must differ as Item 3 is on page 7-67 of my manual

The shop manual is written-up as Items 1 - 3. Item 1 TPS on throttle body (TB), Item 2 TPS removed from TB & Item 3 Adjusting the TPS sensor angle with the throttle closed on TB!

Your current TPS max ohm is 5.6k ohm = 5.6 x 1000 (k) = 5600 ohm: 5600 x 0.13 = 728 and 5600 x 0.15 = 840

Your CURRENT TPS @ throttle closed should be adjusted to: 728 - 840 ohm @ T2 & T3

Your target for the above should be: 784 ohm with the current TPS, which is the mean/middle number. Just be sure to be within the tol

As stated above, this is a very sensitive adjustment and as you tighten the 2-tamper proof screws on the TPS you'll see what i mean.

Once again i suggest you connect your VOM to T2 & T3 and you'll see the variable resistance as you operate the shaft of the TPS from closed to open!

Your latest diagnosis is becoming dynamic now with bumps & potholes & i never asked about codes

My .02 is that your TPS is fine but i've been wrong before .... GOOD LUCK

Re: Sputtering @ 1900 rpm all the time

AlanH — Tue, 05 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SWODude"]

UPDATE: AlanH, thanks for the pictures. I just bought the torx set at the local NAPA, and quickly removed the TPS. I went through the inspection procedure IAW the manual.

I began with step 1 - testing the resistance between black and blue. Got 5.62 kOhms. Then I went to step 2 - checking blue and yellow. The resistance varied between 120 Ohms and 5.36 kOhms.

So I went back to step 1 to see if the black-blue resistance should be changing. Couldn't find the info. So I went to step 3 - adjusting the angle of the TPS. This step has a formula to tell you, based on your maximum black-blue resistance, where the closed-throttle values should be. BINGO!!!! I knew the black-blue values should change with the throttle postion. They weren't changing. So I am now 100% sure the TPS is the problem. I should be getting my new TPS later in the week.

[/quote]IMO you're not performing the resistance test properly and there is nothing wrong with the TPS

My original reply has several threads that i suggest you read as they are quite definitive regarding the TPS as well as using the diagnostic to check the throttle angle!

I seriously doubt that the bike would run in gear at all if the TPS wasn't outputting a variable voltage once there was an output from the speed sensor to the ECU as designed. Here is some reading mat'l: http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Throttle%20position%20sensor%201-13.pdf

Blue, Black wires that connect to terminals 1 & 2 respectively represent the fixed leads of the potentiometer and do not vary in resistance

Yellow (wiper), Black wires that connect to terminals 3 & 2 respectively represent the wiper lead (variable) & fixed lead of the potentiometer and will increase in resistance as the TPS shaft is turned CW when facing the hex female shaft

Re: Sputtering @ 1900 rpm all the time

AlanH — Sat, 02 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SWODude"]

Had the recall done last year. I'll get a cheap multimeter and do the check IAW the service manual.

UPDATE (2 AUG 08):

I got a multimeter and did the test. I'm getting about 5.6 kOhms and the resistance does not change with the throttle. I haven't removed the TPS yet. I'll do that tomorrow and see if the TPS is somehow not coupled to the throttle bodies (my kid was distracting me). Is this what was wrong with the sensors that were recalled? Somehow, the bike runs fairly well and I can ignore the sputtering and I can even keep it from happening if I flog the throttle from every stop. But it's not right.[/quote]5.6 k ohms is the maximum resistance of the TPS and acceptable

Be sure you are using the proper scale on your VOM for step 2 when checking the variable resistance while opening the throttle and that you're connected to the proper terminals of the TPS. The test is performed w/ the TPS 3-prong plug disconnected and starts at a much lower ohm reading. If you're on to high a scale (high resistance) you won't see a change.

It's possible that the TPS recall wasn't done properly by the technician. The factory manual is well documented for the procedure (some simple math based on the resistance of the new TPS) as i replaced mine out of pocket before the recalls ... Here's a thread of mine showing my tools of choice for testing & replacing:

Disclaimer: This contribution/reply of mine is in no way an endoresment of replacing your TPS. Just presenting the facts

My Warrior is acting freaky...Need help! UPDATED!! http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/23954/356931.aspx#356931
(TPS) Yamaha Recall http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/2819/46734.aspx#46734

[quote user="AlanH"]Mon, Oct 2 2006 9:33 PM

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/23954/356933.aspx#356933

Photos of TPS during testing & replacement as well as crimp terminals & tools used during R&R and calibration

Checking & Adjusting Throttle Position Sensor Angle - Terminals (T) 2 & 3

[

Adjusting Throttle Position Sensor Angle (CLOSED) - T2 & T3 - Throttle Closed 667 ohm. This is a very sensitive adjustment and the reason for a tolerance/range. I shot for the mid-range - This adjustment is done on a lower resistance scale of the VOM!

[

Rechecking Maximum Throttle Position Sensor Resistance - T2 & T1

View of TPS coupler assembled. From L to R: Blk = T2, Yel = T3, Blu = T1

[[[/quote]

Re: TPS recall, now error code 16

AlanH — Wed, 29 Aug 2007 04:00:00 GMT

I would suggest doing a sensor test in diagnosis to check the throttle angle only so no need to disconnect the Fuel Pump as instructed:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49924

DI 01 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR: TWIST THROTTLE, VALUE = : CLOSED =15 - 20, OPEN = 95 - 100

I replaced my TPS about a year ago before the recall and it's not a difficult task if you follow the Yamaha shop manual. Here's a couple of threads:
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43717&SearchTerms=TPS
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56500&SearchTerms=tps

The input female hex socket shaft of the TPS must be put onto the throttle shaft properly else you can't achieve the proper ohm setting at full close []
Think of the TPS as a spring loaded variable resistor. It operates in a CCW direction when viewed from the shaft side and is under slight preload when assembled to the throttle body.

I don't know if it's possible to install it with more preload and still achieve full throttle. As i recall there is also a caution note in the manual regarding an o-ring from the old TPS remaining in the throttle body cavity.

Good Luck

Re: Help ASAP (Problem solved thanks)

AlanH — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:00:00 GMT

THE TPS WILL NOT BE SET UP ACCURATELY IF THE DIAGNOSTIC MODE OF THE ECU IS USED FOR THE PROCEDURE [:0] and that's all i have to say about that!

If your bike is running perfectly fine based on your scenario then consider yourself lucky or the procedure outlined in the factory manual is more forgiving than discussed

Actual ohm readings and some simple math establish the proper adjustment for each new TPS []

quote:
Originally posted by longdrives

It is my understanding from observing the TPS is set by using the digital (diag) callup on the tach....the TPS has a total of 18 different increments. Mine was set by observing the diag readings..... no ohm meter. Diag 01, throttle fully closed (15-20), fully open (95-100).

Re: Help ASAP (Problem solved thanks)

AlanH — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:00:00 GMT

I would take it to another dealer [}] [] [V]

The calculation for setting up the closed position of the TPS doesn't involve anything more than using an ohm meter (ohms x 1).

Connections are made directly to the TPS terminals with the harness plug disconnected and key off!

I've done the job personally so i'm talking with hands on experience []

Re: Help ASAP (Problem solved thanks)

AlanH — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:00:00 GMT

FYI, my new replacement TPS had no effect on the Throttle Body Angle readings, before & after, from the ECU in the diag mode for both full open (93) and closed (15).

quote:

Originally posted by BlackStar

After the TPS is calibrated to the throttle position with an ohmmeter it would be a good idea to verify the converted value (what the stock ECU thinks it is) in DIAG mode, and re-set the span in the PC3. This ensures maximum range or resistance sweep from Idle to WOT.

Re: (TPS) Yamaha Recall

AlanH — Thu, 02 Nov 2006 04:00:00 GMT

Replacing the TPS has no affect on the throttle body synch [:0] []

It is a sealed spring loaded potentiometer that slips over the No. 2 cyl throttle body shaft with an integral female coupling (hex bore). When properly setup the TPS is under tension when the throttle body is closed.

The throttle body shaft rotates on a sealed precision ball bearing and the TPS when assembled seals the cavity of the throttle bottle with an o-ring as i recall. The new TPS even comes prelubed with silicone in the bore of the coupling.

It's too bad that Yamaha Engineering hasn't put this type of detail into the CPS. When it fails you're DEAD IN THE WATER riding in the fast lane or merging traffic on your right [!] [] [V] [:0] and that's all i got to say about that!

Re: My Warrior is acting freaky...Need help! UPDATED!!

AlanH — Tue, 03 Oct 2006 04:00:00 GMT

Ship To:
AlanH
Corona CA
US

1 of 5PX-85885-00-00 - .THROTTLE SENSOR ASSY @ $107.16ea.

Subtotal: $107.16
Shipping: $10.19 via UPS Ground
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total Amt: $117.35

South Seattle Sports Plaza
33003 Pacific Highway South
Federal Way, WA 98003
253-838-3290

Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) & Engine Cover Gasket
Purchased from Corona Yamaha @ List Price + tax
$72.50

Photos of TPS during testing & replacement as well as crimp terminals & tools used during R&R and calibration

[[