Search results matching tag 'LEQ'

Re: Back to the fun fast blinking and load equalizers

AlanH — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="TECK"]

Thanks, Alan. That was exactly what I needed. Out of curiosity, what made you switch from the Signal Dynamics dual load EQ to your custom made product?

I originally purchased the Kuryakyn 4807 which is advertised as a 4 amp device which was bogus

Read this: LEQ Kuryakyn 4807 & 4810

Then i contacted SDC regarding their LEQ product and specifications but they wouldn't divulge the load ratings so i went to their distributor, NoPork, which is close to my house and picked up 1-unit with the understanding that only 1 device was req'd for frt & rear

1 device was not adequate and in fact only drew approx 1.8 amps when connected directly across a car battery. Less than a Kury 4810. The beauty of the SDC device is that it's encapsulated within an aluminum finned heat-sink which is 1st class.
The area i had allocated for the LEQ wouldn't acomodate 2-SDC devices.

That being the case i decided to build my own LEQ and purchased the components from Mouser as well as a sealed relay to prevent the COD. My total landed cost was approx $13.50

Also, just to make sure I don't make any mistakes, the 1K 10 watt aluminum cased resistor taps into this blue wire?

Yes it does (Blue running light wire) as well as the Grnd.
As you are aware i use a sealed Relay as shown above with a 90 ohm coil that produces 1.6w @ 12v
I WOULD SUGGEST YOU USE A 100 ohm 10 watt resistor as the 1K device is to high a resistance IMO and not reliable

At 14.8v it will produce 2.2w which is way under it's capacity and equivalent to my relay and also a small instrument bulb that ranges between 2-3watt
The NTE # 10WM110 or equivalent

http://www.nteinc.com/resistor_web/pdf/5w_10w_alum.pdf

Have your engine running when testing the flasher blink rate. The output voltage is higher and the lighting devices will produce more watts and draw more amps making them slow down if a marginal flash situation.

I will take some screenshots soon, to highlight how the new wiring was done, especially with the new fender and license plate lights.
Right now, the new fender built from scratch will be soon used for barbecue purposes, due to it's bad quality built. I brought today my bike to Montreal Choppers shop and they will build a custom fender for my Warrior.[/quote]

Re: LED equalizer problem

AlanH — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

Bob,

Remember you are using the resistors in parallel so the wattage is X2 and ohms is Divided by 2

(2) 15w 5.6 ohm resistors = 30w 2.8 ohm

In your case it's X3 and ohms will be Div by 3 as long as they are all the same specs!

Here's the mounting: http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/1686150643/in/set-72157602604626135/

The 2-ceramic resistors are attached to the aluminum base using thermally conductive 2-sided tape to dissipate the heat. The positive side of the assembly is insulated w/ black liquid tape.
The black electrical tape has been removed and Hi-Temp Fiberglass Tape is laying beneath the shrink wrapped connections for protection

The foot print increases with a larger wattage resistor. Since Kuryakyn uses this exact resistor for their #4810 2amp LEQ i just doulbed up for the 4amp load. I've had this unit in my bike since Aug '07' and > 10,000 miles. The aluminum case also acts as a heatsink as well and i have it located adjacent to the RH fender stay where it sees air and can't harm anything when it heats up. Shown here in this photo before being pushed into the pocket where it isn't visible: http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/1686174035/in/set-72157602604626389/

Also, not all of the load is seen by the LEQ. The Flasher Relay and the T/S LED lighting also share a portion as well so 78w isn't real world unless it was directly connected to the battery terminals! Observe the single line schematic i posted earlier and the influence the connected light had to the amp reading!

I agree with you that a higher wattage resistor is better and certainly won't hurt. The interesting thing about my install is that my flash rate is picture perfect when the engine is running (14.8v). With just the Key ON (12v) the T/S flash faster which tells me that i have a balanced load with the installed LED lighting that is on my bike and i'm not wasting much energy Now that was just pure luck.

Kuryakyn designed the 4810 LEQ to be used with their LED Silver bullets which aren't as high a resistance as my Chris dual circuit LED frt lights. If i had Silver bullets up frt the flash rate would be normal with Key On for sure.

What's the wattage and ohm rating of your resistor. I assumed it was 15.6 ohm ..... 2X your 7.8 ohm

Re: LED equalizer problem

AlanH — Fri, 07 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Badger"]

[quote user="AlanH"]

Bob,

Remember you are using the resistors in parallel so the wattage is X2 and ohms is Divided by 2

(2) 15w 5.6 ohm resistors = 30w 2.8 ohm

In your case it's X3 and ohms will be Div by 3 as long as they are all the same specs!

Oops! Forgot about the fact it will also be a current divider

What's the wattage and ohm rating of your resistor. I assumed it was 15.6 ohm ..... 2X your 7.8 ohm

The resistors that are currently in the Kuryakyn module are 15.6 ohm and, I assume by their size, about 15 watts. I will be adding another of the same to each module bring the resistance down to 5.2 ohm. So with the two modules in parallel I will get 2.6 ohm, similar to what you are using, so hopefully good to go.

[/quote][/quote] ... 15.6w / 2.6 ohm = 6 pcs X 15w = 90watts .... OK You're all set to ride in Parade Formation with your Hazard lights on if you can figure that circuit out Now where are you going to fit 6 pcs?

You're using the 2-existing diodes to prevent feedback for a 3-wire device on both packages that will contain 3-resistors each and must be wired in parallel to each other and also the T/S circuit ! Each package of 3 will be rated @ 45watts & 5.2 ohms

Don't you think it's a lot easier to buy 2- Kury #4810 LEQ's & tape them together The downside is you won't be in the parade

Re: LED equalizer problem

AlanH — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Badger"]

[quote user="AlanH"]

Bob .... i know we are an ocean & continent apart and you speak the Queen's English, Eh but i thought we spoke the same language!

[/quote]

Two countries divided by a common language

Anyway I have cut the heat shrink and measured the resistance and it is 7.8Ω. That should equate to a current of 1.89 amps at 14.8V. That should give a load of 27.97 Watts which should be more than adequate for one indicator. Obviously not enough for two though. I will give it another try and if that does not work I will solder another 15.6Ω resistor in parrallel in each equalizer to bring the resistance down to 5.2Ω and try again.

Thanks again Alan. I will hire a translator for next time

[/quote]No translator req'd as we both speak Ohm's Law

Here's a handy tool residing on my desktop: http://www.angelfire.com/pa/baconbacon/page2.html

7.8Ω is to high a resistance for either the frt or rear IMO to establish the OEM blink rate. The #4810 uses 1- 5.6Ω resistor only. The #4807 uses 2-resistors in parallel.

EDITED: Their stamped values should be 15.6Ω each ?

It's the LED's with the lowest resisitance that will have the most net affect on the flash rate. For my Dual Load Equalizer i used (2) 15w 5.6 ohm resistors as shown here: http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626135/

Good luck

Re: LED equalizer problem

AlanH — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Badger"]

Hi Alan. I have 2 X 4807. I am going to use them with LED indicators, one for the front pair and one for the rears. Just to test the equalizer I opened the headlamp and disconnected one of the incadescent indicators and connected an LED indicator in its place. I then connected the black wire of the equalizer to the negative feed to the indicator and one of the purple wires to the positive feed. This was as far as I got. I thought that if it was not working at this stage then it would make no difference going any further. This is currently where I am at.[/quote]When checking the LEQ operation be sure to have your engine running so that the charging circuit is putting out 14.8V approx. My experience with the Kuryakyn #4807 is that it doesn't draw 4amps as advertised but only 1.5amp as shown in this earlier thread below:

[quote user="AlanH"]Wed, Jun 20 2007 11:56 PM
warpack....The Kuryakyn 4807 although advertised as 4 amp load equalizer resisitor (LEQ) is actually only 1.5 amp load [:0] [] and is good for nothing IMO!

The 2 amp Kuryakyn 4810 draws 2.05 amp and will correct only 1 pair of signal lights to the factory blink rate. If running LED's frt & rear you'll need 2 Kuryakyn 4810 wired in parallel.

I recently went full LED's and substituted the existing 2 amp 4810 LEQ with the 4 amp Kuryakyn 4807. It was at that time i discovered it was useless!

Here's a single line schematic that i sent to Kuryakyn Technical support that has gone unanswered [!]

quote:
Originally posted by warpack

I installed the Kuryakyn 4amp Ld. eq. and it still does it.(it did slow the led's down though) Use the key-problem solved

[/quote]

Re: 12V load equalizer question - integrated taillight

AlanH — Sat, 31 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="tostyj"]

I bought some 12V load equalizers to slow down my the blinkers; they blink too fast as a result of my integrated taillight install. I know that I should tap into the wire harness that leads back to the taillight under the seat, but I have a question: Do you hook them up to the signal wire and the ground wire? I ask because the ground wires are no longer connected to anything. Thanks. [/quote]I don't know what you bought being that you state in the plural, "Equalizers" ? If they are 2-ceramic resistors i would suggest you buy the Kuryakyn 4810 LEQ or Signal Dynamics unit that is more user friendly and has only 3-wires.

The integrated tailight is still using a Grnd and the old turn signal Grnds are pigtailed or branched to one common wire that runs back under the fender to the main harness in the wire tray under the ECU.

The easy install is a Kuryakyn 4810 LEQ or equivalent to correct the flash rate with connections under the seat to the main harness is how i did mine.

The LEQ or resistor/resisitors must be connected to the Grnd and also to each turn signal hot wire. Brown(Chocalate) & Dark Green

Here's a schematic of the turn signals for reference and my mod is here:

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602601844694/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626135/

Not that i'm soliciting, but i have a Kury 4810 & Signal Dynamics that i can sell you!

LEQ Kuryakyn 4807 & 4810

AlanH — Sat, 29 Sep 2007 04:00:00 GMT

Rif... here is my personal experience with 2 Kuryakyn 4807's but if yours works fine that's great []

Taken from this recent post - Decompression Solenoid Failure:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=54312

warpack....The Kuryakyn 4807 although advertised as 4 amp load equalizer resisitor (LEQ) is actually only 1.5 amp load [:0] [] and is good for nothing IMO!

The 2 amp Kuryakyn 4810 draws 2.05 amp and will correct only 1 pair of signal lights to the factory blink rate. If running LED's frt & rear you'll need 2 Kuryakyn 4810 wired in parallel.

I recently went full LED's and substituted the existing 2 amp 4810 LEQ with the 4 amp Kuryakyn 4807. It was at that time i discovered it was useless!

Here's a single line schematic that i sent to Kuryakyn Technical support that has gone unanswered [!]

quote:

Originally posted by warpack

I installed the Kuryakyn 4amp Ld. eq. and it still does it.(it did slow the led's down though) Use the key-problem solved

quote:

Originally posted by Rif

I just checked my records and I used the 4807. I could be wrong but I think if you use the 4810 you need to use two of them verses the one 4807? I've got one 4807 working my rear set of blinkers. Maybee I'm putting too much load on them? They've been working for about 4 months now.

Re: Flasher?

AlanH — Sat, 12 May 2007 04:00:00 GMT

MilwDave.... no need to disturb the flasher at all! The LEQ can be connected to the wiring under the ECU. Follow the rear fender wiring to an Opaque 6~Pin (5-wire) plug and i suggest you tap into the female plug wiring so you can remove the fender if req'd in the future.

Here's some photos of how i just rewired mine since going full LED's Frt & Rear with a Signal Dynamics LEQ. Prior to this mod the LEQ (Kuryakyn 4810) was strapped to the Yami inner fender support bracket

[

I branched into the turn signal wiring with a mechanical & soldered joint. Added 3~dual female connectors for future use or testing. Installed male snap connectors to the LEQ []

[

quote:
Originally posted by MilwDave

What is the easiest way to access the flasher. I need to replace the flasher with a load equalizer to regulate the speed of the turn signals. It doesnt look like you can access it under the seat.