Search results matching tag 'How to'

Re: Midnight owner gauges ???

AlanH — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Here's a similar subject on instrument backlighting that came up quite recently:

Speedo light: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/139814/1088240.aspx#1088240

[quote user="razorbackWarrior"]Sat, Nov 27 2004 7:36 PM
Speedo & tach backlight conversion. blue to red

Well, boys and girls...
It can be done!!! I have proof. My speedo and tach have been mod'd to glow red!!!! I have wondered for a couple years now if this could be done, there have been a couple of threads started on the topic and most everyone said that it just wasn't possible. I was about ready to give up, when I contacted Scott @ www.bluegauges.com. He said that he thought for sure he could change out the led bulbs. I just got them back and voila!! they are no longer blue.

The picture shows that the tach is a litte orange.. but that is only in the picture.. the tach is very red.

this is the most recent topic that I started on this...
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20957

just goes to show you.. if you try hard enough, you can do it!!!
Thanks to Scott!!! and to Slothy for putting me onto him!
[/quote]

Re: swingarm bearings

AlanH — Sat, 22 Aug 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="tundra556"]I tried searchin best I could. im on a smart phone. I got my swingarm bearings today and need to know what side goes in. the wide lip or thin.

The wide lip faces outside and the smaller lip faces inward.

You want to press against the larger flat face when assembling the needle bearings!

I have the service manual but it doesn't say and can't tell from the pics. I don't want to pull the other swinger off just to look. thanks in advanced. Jason[/quote]Here's and earlier topic post on this subject matter

Barons Swing arm & bearing problem (Update 7/18)

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25787/376229.aspx#376229

Re: Speedo light

AlanH — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Kdub"]

Anyone ever switched out there speedometer light and tach light. I wanna do red because my bike is red but dont know where to start. Where do you get a red replacement bulb?

[/quote]Yup ... this too has been done early on

Here's an early topic

Tach/Speedo Backlighting

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/11244/98623.aspx#98623

And the resolution if you read the links

Here's a query using “bluegauges” in ascending order

http://rswarrior.com/search/SearchResults.aspx?q=%22bluegauges%22&o=DateAscending

As previously stated, model years 05 & > gauges from the Midnight will produce the results you want!

Re: Shift Lever Stop Switch

AlanH — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Yamatized"]

The problem with hydraulic switches is that you can no longer signal someone with your brake light to back off your azz without actually applying brake preasure. For that very reason I opted for the switch relocation but would never consider drilling into my frame to do so when it is not necessary for this particular modification. Did this mod about 6 years ago with no problems and very little money spent.

[/quote] http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/27810/390897.aspx#390897

[quote user="Yamatized"]Wed, Jan 19 2005 4:57 PM
Brake Light Switch/ Return Spring Relocate

I am sure this has been done before but am posting it because I have not seen it with pics in the Mod section. What is different about this approach is that it doesn't require drilling holes in the frame as has been done before in a previous switch/spring relocate thread.

I relocated the switch to the lower frame and attached it with a black clamp. Made a homemade bracket to attach to the rear of the brake rod and attached the stock pull string. Some minor adjustments and works great.

I removed the exhaust guard and ran the return spring from its stock position on the break lever to a bolt in the rearmost hole that the removed guard had left.

Cleaned up the right side nicely. Sorry for the poor quality pics.[/quote]

Re: Clutch questions...

AlanH — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SmaShitUp(mike7202)"]

sorry to hijack this thread but I do have a question pertaining to the barnetts conversion. I am currently in the process of installing the barnetts kit and replacing my CPS with the recall kit.

My question is that i see on the stock plate where the arrows line up for indexing but i dont see anywhere on the barnett plate where there is an arrow or any place to index it to. does the barnett plate need to be indexed?

... yes the plate needs to be indexed although there are no markings!

if so how?

The instruction sheet included w/ the Barnett plate describes the HOW TO:

Just clock the pressure plate w/o the last friction disc in place and it will be obvious when it engages the teeth in the Clutch Boss. If i'm not mistaken it will then also fit 180 deg about too ... Match mark the plate & boss and finish installing the disc etc .....
Here's some hosted photos of my install: CPS Recall & Barnett SR-2 Pressure Plate

thanks[/quote]Warrior_84 & SmaShitUp(mike7202) .... here's some helpful threads that discuss the install as well as the sheared edge of the plate and elimination of the 1/2 friction disc and cushion springs etc.

Re: Alarm Wiring Help

AlanH — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Fella5"]

Thanks again Alan.... I actually have the manual for my Warrior. The tech gave me the wires I need to use for my bike. I was just referencing what their default diagram was.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee210/fella5/Logo/4-29-20097-39-45PM.gif

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee210/fella5/Logo/4-29-20097-40-38PM.gif

[/quote]Based on your provided url's i'm able to provide clearity to my earlier responses and your original post as i'm familar with the DGD keyless ignition.

Last Nov '08' member Ruckus contacted me regarding the install: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/120111/985814.aspx#985814

and my initial response here: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/120111/986274.aspx#986274

He had secured the HD specific DGD 3-wire device as shown here: http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/PDFS/Manual-DGD-KIM-Install.pdf

After i contacted DGD tech support regarding the application issues they disclosed that there was a new metric product in limited supply on their shelves (No Documentation & w/o P/N) so i suggested to Ruckus that he exchange the 3-wire for the new 4-wire device eliminating using a relay for the digital GRND!

Based on the wiring diagram, you have the new metric version. The 2-accessory connections appear to be an isolated switched normally open contact and shouldn't be labeled 12v Acc Supply and also shouldn't matter how connected to the Warrior digital Grnd. My .02

Back to your original question.... all wires required for the install are available under seat and i would suggest you wire the DGD device in parallel leaving the ignition switch wiring in place in case you lose the remote or it malfunctions!

The biggest challenge for the install is going to be isolating and identifying the stop/run (engine cut-off) wires that are branched in the harness i suspect.

I hope the enclosed provides more clearity & credibility to my earlier responses

Alarm Wiring Help & COLOR CODE 101

AlanH — Wed, 29 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

I'm going to repeat myself and then ... the Warrior does not have an accessory position and that you can take to the Bank This is fact and not my opinion. Ref: replace key switch HELP!! http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/120111/965314.aspx#965314

Note my corrections below

[quote user="Fella5"]

Thanks for the replies.... this is what I found:

Ignition Wire - ~~Red/Blue~~ on the ignition - Brown/Blue
12V Ignition Supply Wire - Red on the ignition -
12V ACC Supply Wire - Blue/Yellow on the ignition - - Digital GRND
Accessory Wire - Blue/Black on the ignition - Digital GRND
Stop/Run Switch "Hot Side" - Red/White on the stop/run switch -
Stop/Run Switch "Cold Side" - ~~Red/Black~~ on the stop run switch - Black/Red

Key to the Color Code wiring on the diagram is as follows

The solid longer dash line = the Primary Color and is stated 1st in the description
The 2-short dash lines = the Secondary Color and is stated last after the '/ ' slash

[/quote]

Here's a direct link to an enhanced Warrior diagram, fully documented, that i put up on the WWW and also available in the downloads & How To's

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Warrior/Warrior%20Schematic.pdf

For the record, there is one Warrior member that i'm aware of running with the 2-digital grounds tied together if you have some motive here - bpk0816

Read Line Item 11 in this thread: Left Side Motor Mount, Dyna Coils, Ignition Key, Start Button, Mount Bracket Mod/ How To (26 Pics)
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/124231/991435.aspx#991435

Good Luck

Re: Front Cylinder Header stud question.

AlanH — Mon, 27 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="MuDfReAk"]

appreciate the input guys, i'll do my best. Now just need to find out the pitch of the stud so that i can get the proper nuts.

[/quote] M8 x 1.25p for sure which is standard and you can take that to the Bank

EDITED: I didn't read your original question ... the OEM stud is technically known as a milled tapped end manifold stud and is self-locking when installed. Soak the stud with some good quality penetrating oil and remove with a couple of regular or heavy height M8 nuts for extraction.

At the temperatures seen by this application, IMO, i see no purpose of using thd lock for the install!

Good luck

How to for stripped thd @ Head Pipe Stud:

.... I installed a SS thread insert in a members bike for him last year on the frt outer stud closest to the cylinder fins. I picked-up a Heli-coil kit with the proper tap drill to enlargen the hole. Left the head pipe in place with the 1-good inside stud so that the flange would act as a drill guide bushing which was a pc of cake. He had the factory head pipes which have a thick flange.

Then ,removed the head pipe and found a close fitting socket that i used as a bushing to keep the heli-coil tap perpendicular to the cyl head. Needed another set of hands for that. After bottoming out the taper tap, we cut the end off to make it a bottoming tap and finished off the threads in the blind hole. The M8 insertion tool is only 1-piece so it was a pc of cake to install the insert. Much easier than M6 size.

For a stud we picked up a grade 10.9 full thd bolt, cut the head-off, and installed into cylinder head. The kit with tap drill and all was less than $25.00. A long allen soc set screw could have been substituted too!

Re: lowereing question

AlanH — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="lando26"]

okay... so i did the "flip and grind" and i am pleased with the outcome although i am interested in whether or not i could lower the bike a little more if i was to lengthen the braces which run parallel to the spring.

thanks in advance! [/quote] lando26 .... I would suggest reversing the FnG if you plan on increasing the Link length, aka dog bones, because there is a possible interference with the cast frame cross member and the bottom edge of the links with this combination. Either way, take precaution by checking all positions of movement.

You can then accomplish the lowering by lengthening the links. Approx 3/16" (0.1875") = 1.00" lower.

[quote user="lando26"]

by me saying I would use angle iron I meant just a piece of flat bar maybe 10 gauge or so,copying the factory one

[/quote] lando26 .... The factory stock links are 6mm x 19mm where you will make the cut so you could use 1/4" x 3/4" HRS Bar Stock. I would suggest making a simple jig out of wood to use as a gauge. Members that have done this mod add a plate across the opening on the outside of the link opposite the spring. You'll want to locate it where it will not interfere with the engine, trans or oil tank components.

IMO, the Links are in Tension when under load and not compression, so the offset welded connection that is plated isn't going to create a problem if welded properly.

I would expect a search of the forum will return adequate information from members that either shortened or lengthened the links or dog bones so search for both!

I am unable to update the email address in my profile

OldMan — Sat, 18 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Every time I try it comes back with the following error message:

Oops something went wrong!

Either the site is offline or an unhandled error occurred. We apologize and have logged the error. Please try your request again or if you know who your site administrator is let them know too.

I have been trying for several months now. I don't think the logged error is being seen by anyone. Some assistance please?

Thanks,