Search results matching tag 'Fastener'

Re: '04 Rear axle nut pitch

AlanH — Tue, 26 May 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SuicideD_45"]

I've searched this site but can't find anything that actually tells me the thread pitch of the M18 rear axle and nut. Anyone have this info? Would really appreciate the help.

Thanx [/quote] M18 x 1.5 p

Note: You'll want to keep in mind that you'll lose the self-locking feature of the OEM part when changing to Ti

Missing Brake lever free play bolt - M6 x 0.75 pitch

AlanH — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="NHWarrior"]

..... So I need M6 .75 25mm. No one carries it in stock, but they can be ordered. I think I am just going to order one at my dealer, they don't charge for shipping and the bolt is about $2.

For the time being I bought an M5 with 2 nuts, which I put on eaither side of the lever. It seems like it will hold up temporarily. Thanks for the help everyone. [/quote] NHWarrior .... happy you solved the problem and thanks for the update on the thd pitch. I wasn't aware that M6 was available in 0.75p and owe a few apologies to members here as i've stated M6 was only available in 1-flavor ... 1.0 pitch ...Mind you, i wasn't totally wrong as they thought it was 1.25p

Anyway, don't forget to order the accompanying jamb nut that is just as rare

Re: Fasteners 101

AlanH — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:00:00 GMT

RobRiguez .... No Problema ....this is the technical discussion forum and you certainly have the right to challenge me and anyone else ... I respect and applaud your contributions here and was just being sarcastic

As you stated previously, all that is req'd is a Metric Scale to measure the fastener diameter.

IMO, the thread pitch can easily be identified if you catalog the 5-popular sizes as a bench mark for comparison. Regarless of diameter, the thd pitch of any size fastener will work for another!

M5	0.8
M6	1.0
M8	1.25
M10	1.5
M12	1.75

An M10 x 1.25p fine pitch screw can easily be identified using the M8 x 1.25p screw

McMaster-Carr is also a great source for identifying specific dimensions in lieu of the Machinist Handbook mentioned by another member

Fasteners 101

AlanH — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="RobRiguez"]

While I would never challenge your knowledge, I will have to go back and measure again. I could swear they were 6mm x 18mm x 1.25.

M6 x 1.25p doesn't exist on planet earth

[quote user="AlanH"]As the metric thread pitch number increases the thread becomes coarser. Opposite to American std's.[/quote]
For those that dont know, the reason for this is that std is measured in the number of threads per inch. So a higher number would mean MORE threads per inch and thus a finer thread. For metric, the gap between the threads is measured. So a higher number means a bigger gap/coarser thread. Just FYI for those that might have wondered why (as I did only a few weeks ago)

I didn't realize i needed a translator. I guess we speak a different language The standard and bench mark here is All METRIC! If you want to discuss threads per inch go to the HD Forum

1.25p is coarser than 1.0p

OK, this doesnt make sense. The first sentence you state that the Stainless are weaker than standard bolts. Then in the last sentence you said because of this you chose to use the Stainless. ???? I confused.[/quote]

You're confused and you're confusing me... the comparison is SOCKET BUTTON HEAD to SOCKET CAP which is a std soc allen screw. If you read my Fable 1 it explains the differences in the Allen-Key Sizes for the same thd body size with different heads!

My understanding is that Tech is wanting to hold down some leather or vinyl Fender BIB if i'm not mistaken. Why waste the money on a chrome fastener that needs to be imported and will probably end up corroding in the hex soc to boot
Now if you were talking about replacing the lower pinch bolts for the triple tree (M8 x 1.25p) using my original laser sig brackets i would say bring on the ferrous metal chrome screws as shown here and check out the corrosion too ... http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157604222397890/show/

How to Identify Yamaha Fastener P/N's for Diameter & Length Etc - Yamaha P/N Configuration

AlanH — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Vietz2"]

Not completely positive about this...but I'm pretty sure, with Yamaha part numbers, for bolt sizes you can just look at the 2nd set of numbers of the part #. So, the part in question is:

BOLT,SMALL FLANGE
95027-08016-00

08016 = 8mm X 16mm

EDITED: The website I got this from: http://viragotechforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2670

[/quote]Vietz2 you're the man ... you should get an award for this contribution .. unfortunately it doesn't identify the thread pitch but nonetheless, it's a great tool for all of us....Thanks

NorCalWarrior ... that's some good basic info you posted for those challenged by screws/bolt specs ... might i add that the fastener length is always measured under the head except for flat head screws and shoulder bolts. Many of the Yamaha button head fasteners are proprietary so DIN standards and the Machinery Handbook is useless ... Check out the hyperlinks to Fastener Fable 1 & 2 if interested.

Vietz2 ... here's an example confirming your response as well as my comment of not identifying special thread pitch. This is the proprietary button hd screw that holds the peg support bracket to the frame:

Taken from an earlier post: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/105574/884967.aspx#884967

[quote user="AlanH"]

[quote user="jimmy2"]

I dont know what they are made of but dull good drill bits very quickly. Whoever designed those large bolts with such a small allen size needs to be fired. [/quote] Taken from an old topic: Fastener Fable-1 & Fastener Fable-2

This specific Yamaha button hd scr uses a std 6mm hex key

M10-1.25p x 50mm Long Yamaha Button Head Steel. This will be very tough to get @ 50mm unless you order from dealer (2 of 92014-10050-00 - BOLT, BUTTON HEAD @ $1.90ea.)

I would suggest using anti-seize on these bolts and torque to factory spec of 35 ft~lbs max. The location of these bolts make them vunerable to corrosion & road trash because they are th'd through the frame and exposed on the inside. I always clean the thd's before reassembly.... Just my .02

[/quote]

Re: Help w/Foot Bracket Removal!

AlanH — Thu, 27 Mar 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="jimmy2"]

This specific Yamaha button hd scr uses a std 6mm hex key

M10-1.25p x 50mm Long Yamaha Button Head Steel. This will be very tough to get @ 50mm unless you order from dealer (2 of 92014-10050-00 - BOLT, BUTTON HEAD @ $1.90ea.)

Re: Sorry Ass Brake Rotor Bolts....

AlanH — Sun, 18 Feb 2007 05:00:00 GMT

ONAGER....our site sponsor stocks the shoulder bolts for the front:http://www.motorsportssuperstore.com/

The new factory bolts come with Blue thread lock applied and are proprietary parts. You won't get them at McMaster-Carr or elsewhere IMO!

A small propane torch to carefully heat the bolt head only and cutting an allen wrench close to the bend is a good method for removing the bolts IMO so that the wrench won't twist.

Re: Frame fix for stripped threads (shift bracket)?

AlanH — Tue, 18 Jul 2006 04:00:00 GMT

The factory bolt is a special steel headed button head bolt M10 x 1.25p x 50mm (1.968") long

A modified version of dontcare1357 solution would be to tap out the remaining portion of the hole in the frame to M10 x 1.25p

The lower frame is 1.265" OD with .250" thk approx welded boss = 1.515" OAL. The peg support bracket is 1.180" thk at the hole leaving approx .788" lg th'd bolt to engage frame. (1.968 - 1.180 = .788 thd engagement)

A std lgth 70mm bolt will net approx .727" thd engagement. (1.515 - .788 = .727")

Another approach would be to re-tap the hole to 7/16-20 american thread. The remaining stripped hole is the exact tap drill size. The down side is that you'll need to open the peg support bracket slightly to accomodate the larger bolt.

Keep in mind if you use dontcare1357 repair on the rear most hole with a nut that there will be an interference with the lower cowl plastic bracket []

A Heli-Coil ofcourse will work

Stainless Steel engine bolts...Fastener Fable-2

AlanH — Fri, 11 Nov 2005 05:00:00 GMT

MrWilson...thanks for the compliment. Here's another fastener fable []

Standard Socket Button Head screws are 2 wrench sizes smaller than Socket Head screws of equal thread diameter.

The Yamaha Oversized Socket Button Head screws have the same wrench size as Socket Heads!

Stainless soc button head screws cannot sustain equal torque as there soc head counterparts. [] I found this out when i was torquing the smaller button head fasteners that came with the billet final drive cover. [!] Started to strip the hex before achieving torque value so i used stainless soc heads. []

I WOULD NOT USE STAINLESS BUTTON HEAD SCREWS FOR ANY HIGH STRENGTH/HIGH TORQUE APPLICATIONS, SUCH AS PEG MOUNTING BRACKETS TO FRAME, ETC.

Re: Stainless Steel engine bolts...

AlanH — Thu, 10 Nov 2005 05:00:00 GMT

Check the head markings on the OEM socket bolts you plan on replacing. They are marked []
They range from Class 8.8 ~ 12.9 []

quote:
Originally posted by bigbear2592

Thanks for the info, its my guess that for the various covers its about par for the bolt, or am I reading it wrong.