Search results matching tag 'Electrical'

Re: Midnight owner gauges ???

AlanH — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Here's a similar subject on instrument backlighting that came up quite recently:

Speedo light: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/139814/1088240.aspx#1088240

[quote user="razorbackWarrior"]Sat, Nov 27 2004 7:36 PM
Speedo & tach backlight conversion. blue to red

Well, boys and girls...
It can be done!!! I have proof. My speedo and tach have been mod'd to glow red!!!! I have wondered for a couple years now if this could be done, there have been a couple of threads started on the topic and most everyone said that it just wasn't possible. I was about ready to give up, when I contacted Scott @ www.bluegauges.com. He said that he thought for sure he could change out the led bulbs. I just got them back and voila!! they are no longer blue.

The picture shows that the tach is a litte orange.. but that is only in the picture.. the tach is very red.

this is the most recent topic that I started on this...
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20957

just goes to show you.. if you try hard enough, you can do it!!!
Thanks to Scott!!! and to Slothy for putting me onto him!
[/quote]

Re: Speedo light

AlanH — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Kdub"]

Anyone ever switched out there speedometer light and tach light. I wanna do red because my bike is red but dont know where to start. Where do you get a red replacement bulb?

[/quote]Yup ... this too has been done early on

Here's an early topic

Tach/Speedo Backlighting

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/11244/98623.aspx#98623

And the resolution if you read the links

Here's a query using “bluegauges” in ascending order

http://rswarrior.com/search/SearchResults.aspx?q=%22bluegauges%22&o=DateAscending

As previously stated, model years 05 & > gauges from the Midnight will produce the results you want!

Electric Starting System Diagram Documentation 101

AlanH — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

The referenced diagram: http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/My%20Documents/Chapter%207%20pgs%2023-27%20warrior_service_manual.pdf is misleading and difficult to follow if you don't understand the state of the interlock devices that are conditional as shown on the diagram.

Here are the state of the devices if interested

5 - Engine Kill Switch open
6 - Starting Circuit Relay Deenergized
8 - Clutch hand lever released (Not Operated)
9 - Diode Relay Unit is False until the conditions change for 8 & 10 or 11 to initiate Start Interlocks below:

8 & 10 - The Clutch SW is closed & The Sidestand SW is Closed (Sidestand UP)
11 - Neutral SW Closed

10 - Sidestand Down (Closes Sidestand Up)
11 - Bike in Gear (Closes in Neutral)
12 - Starter PB not depressed
14 - Starter Relay (Solenoid) Deenergized

Re: Wires from clutch lever?????

AlanH — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

EDITED: Oops

FWIW, the clutch interlock switch is a Normally Closed Contact, held open (NCHO.) when the clutch lever is released (Not operated). When the lever is operated the NCHO contact recloses!

Item 8 here: http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/My%20Documents/Chapter%207%20pgs%2023-27%20warrior_service_manual.pdf

[quote user="wyomingwarrior"]

[quote user="independent_lemming"]

When I went internal wired bars I just soldered them together in the light bucket and made a shunt on the system. Dont know if the switch in normally open or normally closed but it didnt matter since I always start in nuetral.

[/quote]

Ahhh.... that was going to be my next question.

Thanks guys![/quote]

Re: Starting

AlanH — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 05:00:00 GMT

Tausch ... my .02 follows ....after reviewing your gallery inventory, assuming it's up-todate , noting that you're running the stock frt & rear turn signals less the license plate light and have the OEM decomp and cam covers simplifies the trouble shooting process.

Some of the aforementioned mods mentioned by Marco Polo, can have chronic problems that contribute to what might appear to be a bad battery but isn't.

Because the weak battery has been preexisting since day one, i would agree with Marco and not replace it at this time. I would check all relevant connections and devices that would contribute to this problem as stated by Dice.

A typical symptom of the battery going bad is the trip odometer resetting to zero!

My tools of choice for this challenge would be a Digital volt ohm meter ($10.00-$15.00) and Battery Tender Jr ($30.00)) at a minimum.

Charge the battery completely off the bike and when done check the output voltage. A well charged AGM battery will yield > 12.7vdc ... my OEM GS battery (> 60 months old ) puts out 12.84vdc when fully charged with no other connections today!

Alternatively, take the battery to a reliable shop and have it load tested after being fully charged.
While the battery is off the bike you'll want to do your due diligence in making a proper inspection of all the high current carrying cables and terminating connectors to the Starter Relay (Item 7 http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Warrior/Warrior%20Schematic.pdf ) as this could cause your problem. Remove and inspect spade connectors.
Thoroughly inspect the starter motor connector under the rubber boot for tightness and validate the mechanical crimped connection as well as the battery positive and negative cables.

midnight_run - Faulty Starter Relay symptoms and fix w/ part no. http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/122342/979530.aspx#979530

Churchkey - Bike Dies when i pull the battery cable.http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/118726/957003.aspx#957003

3rd paragraph: Bike Dies when i pull the battery cable

Quick visual check. stand in front of the bike with the engine running & look at the head light. Reach over & shut the bike off with the kill switch while watching the head light. If the head light gets dimmer when the engine shuts off the charging system is functuning. If it gets slightly brighter the charging system is not functuning.

Re: A little electrical help please

AlanH — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 05:00:00 GMT

The Signaling System 10A Fuse has blown as shown below. Suggest you check the wiring in this circuit for a short.

It's possible the larger/wider battery has pinched the turn signal wiring under the seat?

Switch Box Housings & Rocker Switch Assemblies - Caution

AlanH — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT

This is, IMO, a must read for those of you that are planning to R&R your switch box housings with chrome or polished parts.

The fatality rate of the Kill Switch (engine cut-off switch) is quite high on this sight and is self-inflicted by the installer. Reading this topic will assure a successful install!

[quote user="AlanH"] Sat, Apr 7 2007 11:45 PM Killswitch prob after control swap
I'm sorry to say that the kill switch is only available as an assembly with the right switch housing and harness, etc

SuicideD_45.... this might be of interest

Subject: Stripped Screw
Sent to: RaySDF250 - 04/01/2007 : 7:58:42 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray....just something that might help you out and maybe it wont.

The switch housings (SWH) as well as the riser clamps have a tightening procedure that i have read and adhere to while working on bikes.

When the SWH is assembled on the bar the top screw is tightened 1st so there is no gap (tight joint) and the bottom screw is tightened last where there remains a slight gap and leverage to the top screw.

To remove the procedure is to loosen the bottom 1st.....if not the top screw is under a tremendous load from the leverage created by the bottom screw and $hit happens.

The front stock split riser clamp screws are tightened 1st to eliminate gap and the rears second which creates leverage and tremendous clamping force to the bars

I just polished a set of housings & clutch perch yesterday and replaced the left side only last night.

The wiring is a PITA. Be very careful with the rocker switches (Kill Switch & Hi-Lo) when reassembling into the switch housings. They have a small plastic protruding pin as part of the rocker that must be compressed to fit properly in the housing bores keeping the switch contacts compressed, else it's possible to break or damage the switch.

This is something that should be posted but hasn't yet.
Anyway, just a heads up.
Regards
Alan
[/quote]
[quote user="rphazen"] Headlight dimmer switch fix(Headlight not working)

When installing the switch back in the housing make sure this plastic pin slides down the side of the aluminum boss as it helps holds the switch together and would be real easy to break the plastic pin off.

[quote user="AlanH"]rphazen.... excellent information & neat photos

As you stated, the round plastic pin you have highlighted in red can easily be broken when replacing both switch housings as the engine cut-off switch is constructed the same, except that it's a single pole w/2-wires. Without the plastic pin the electrical contacts will be real weak with possible intermittent problems such as engine cutting out![/quote][/quote]

Re: Spark Plug Wire Mishap!

AlanH — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Justice"]

So, when I was fiddling around with my coil/sensor plate under the tank, I pulled the front right spark plug wire right out of the boot on the jug! Ooops.

I pushed it back in there as best I could, but I know it's not connected...

Do I need to replace the wire and boot, or can I have it recrimped?

I would love a little more play (it's tight).

Where do you get new wires and boots from? Model numbers and Dealers would be so helpful.

Thanks! No problema[/quote]No problema .... just push back the dust boot on the bakelite insulator and thread it into the wire .... if it's loose just trim approx 1/4" off the wire and tighten it up .. reposition dust boot as before

EDITED: The right coil for the frt cyl #2 should have the secondary wires facing the frt of the bike and they fit without any problem. You can check my photos here: http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604625531/ you see that the right coil primaries are facing the rear of the bike as indicated by the markings on the top of the plate +/_

Re: Wiring up rear lights with trailer harness?

AlanH — Sun, 30 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="NorCalWarrior"]

I'd like to be able to wire everything through the harness so that I can disconnect it if I ever have to, so my question is can I combine the LED plate power and tailight power together (1 and 6), and do the same with taillight ground and LED plate light ground (3 and 7) to make the 5 wire harness work? [/quote] ... Absolutely .... ... and here's where they originate under the ECU: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2306/1687013222_c68171ece3_b.jpg

[quote user="AlanH"] Sun, Jul 22 2007 3:38 PM Wiring problem

The Road* Warrior has only five wires that feed the rear fender. They are sub-divided or branched for connections at the rear to accommodate the multiple grounds and run/license lights.

Black - Ground
Green - Right Turn Signal
Brown - Left Turn Signal
Blue - Running Light & License Light
Yellow - Brake Light[/quote]

Help me Guru's! {IAPS & APS Color Coding}

AlanH — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

speedyfreek .... i don't claim to be a Guru ... here's info based on my '04' Warrior

Here's the info you want from an earlier Topic post: DIY BAK Issues that i responded to earlier this year. Credit goes to Patrick aka sc186 for correcting me regarding the PN's for the engine sensors. The info follows:

[quote user="AlanH"]

quote:
Originally posted by sc186

Thanks for the amateur psychoanalysis. You are welcome

Cant find anything specifically citing the four digits, only which harness corresponds to which pressure source. My apparently flawed logic would suggest that one pressure transducer is as good as the next, so long as its output matched that within an expected tolerance.

Well looks like sc186 is correct and i'm wrong [B)] [:0]

I just went through Parts Fiche Details on the MSSS.com site and checked years '02~08:

24 SENSOR, PRESSURE 5JW-82380-00-00 qty 1 $147.34

55 SENSOR, PRESSURE 5JW-82380-00-00 qty 2 $147.34

Same part number for the 3 sensors unless it's a misprint.

Oh well, as i infrequently say, "I've been wrong before"
[/quote]

[quote user="AlanH"]

quote:
Originally posted by sc186

I wrongfully assumed that the two IAP sensors with the same part numbers would be used for the Manifold pressure when one of them was for atmospheric pressure. I toggled back and forth with the three sensors for a bit until she fired up.

I got to challenge your statement!

Here's an earlier topic. Posted - 12/10/2007 : 09:38:37 AM
sensor numbers:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=60312

Taken from my '04' Warrior - There is one unique wire color for each sensor - Verify that the vacuum lines are to the respective throttle bodies

IAP Sensors Cyl's 1 &2 (Grey Plug) on bottom!
5JW-82380
-00
E1T24772
3223
Cyl 1 - Rear: Pink/White
Cyl 2 - Front: Pink/Yellow-Grey Plug

Atmospheric Sensor-No Vacuum Hose on top!
5JW-82380
-00
E1T24772
4107
Solid Pink Wire