Search results matching tag 'Clutch cable'

Re: Clutch Slipping Need HELP!

AlanH — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Brian Karr"]

I just took off my old 6.5" risers to send them in to be re-chromed and installed a set of 5.5" risers. What has happened is when I am rolling in 2nd-4th gears and roll the throttle back hard my RPM's skyrocket and then you can feel, at least to me, clutch slipping then it grabs and you take off. The clutch has always been hard to operate but now it is just a little harder. There is NO play in the lever, meaning when you touch the lever it starts the high rev's. I have checked the cable to make sure it is not pinched in anyway. CAN SOMEONE HELP I WANT THE TAKE OFF SPEED AGAIN!!

[/quote]Brian Karr .... if the slipping was a result of swapping over risers i would suspect that the small swaged cable end at the clutch case has become dislodged in the pull-lever retainer causing a false over adjustment resulting in slipping.

A simple inspection of the terminated connection is the Tell-Tale ... I've seen this occurence personally on others bikes and also in the field.

If the cable end is dislodged you'll need to slacken it and reposition the swaged end properly in the pivot bracket and then readjust the cable

Thom .... do you recognize this photo

Clutch Component Dynamics

AlanH — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 05:00:00 GMT

Yup, it's interesting how things get lost in translation

Item 5 & Item 32 are both listed as PUSH components in the Yamaha Parts Fiche but in the Real World are PULL components as is the Clutch Cable

The clutch cable PULLS the Lever 5 CCW which in turn rotates the shaft 7 causing the small pinion near the end to rotate CCW translating the rotary motion to a Linear movement thru the rack gear machined on one face of Item 32 which in turn PULLS against the pressure plate Item 25 via the Brg 32 relaxing the clutch plates for shifting.

When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout

Follow the Pope's Instructions HERE!

[quote user="Arizona Warrior"]

.... One extra tip, I also like to watch the clutch case "push lever" (item #5 below) act and make sure the lever is 'just' landing (so the cable is just barely going slack) to assure good clutch disc contact without using up too much cable range for adjustments.

[/quote]

Clutch cable length 101

AlanH — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="southboundchicken"]

..... let me take the liberty of answering this one for alan,( i know he'll scald me if i'm wrong ) the shorter cable has to bend a little harder than a longer one will therefore causing more friction on the cable not allowing it to "slip" as easily, the longer cable will pull easier with less friction due to the decreased binding that will take place, imo it will look better too. plus by purchasing a new one you'll be helping to stimulate our economy, that is, if you were to buy it from some place here in the states[/quote]Just my .02 here .... the shorter clutch cable with a proper cant at the clutch perch is more desirable for the following reasons:

Less friction w/ a shorter overall cable
Less stretch to the center swaged cable that is in tension
Less movement in the outer sheathing that is in compression and effects modulation

Re: Time to switch cables to SS, some advice needed

AlanH — Sun, 19 Oct 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="TECK"]

..... Alan, is it Galfer you have now for your front brake lines? What bothers me with Galfer is that they have their name printed on cables like 285 times....

Custom Brake Lines - 3 Days :>)

The Galfer black SS frt & rear brake lines that i received from Cycle Brakes have no markings at all on them.

Does Barnett have the same "problem"? I really like a clean look...

no markings on the Barnett cable received from Phat Perf.

At least I can get the Barnett cables with the banjos chromed and the sleeve black. It will still look cool in front of those chromed bars.
Alan, do you recall what was the part you ordered from Phat (straight end clutch lever)? I plan to so a straight clutch cable also.

Copy of E-mail: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 5:11 PM

Matt,

This confirms our phone conversation of yesterday afternoon, Aug 23rd, for the order:

One (1) BARNETT custom clutch cable for a 2004 Yamaha RoadStar Warrior with the following specifications as discussed with Joe in Tech support at BARNETT and to be confirmed by you with Joe.

Part No. 26342 with straight top @ clutch lever adjustment
Stock Length
Color Black
Delivery 1 1/2 wks approx

I also recall that you were not that favorable to Spiegler, compared to Galfer (quality wise).

If i was, i don't remember the topic post Stainless Steel fittings are my mat'l of choice for brake lines.

I had Barnett fabricate a std length clutch cable with a Road* straight end at the clutch lever that I purchased thru Phats mid '05' that has reduced the pull force of the lever.

Disclaimer: The writer takes no responsibility for the information provided above and recommends that you confirm the specifics with your Vendor of choice.

[/quote]

Re: Stainless brake and clutch lines

AlanH — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Meatball"]

They sun oxidises the clear plastic coating, I'm pretty sure you'll find it's pretty much the same product on all of them. I've heard that tooth paste and elbow grease can bring them back, but I haven't tried it.

The only thing I'd add is, I've broken TWO aftermarket clutch cables and I think they're garbage. I ended up practically blowing the manager of a Yamaha dealership in Vernon British Columbia so that he'd sell me the one off of a new Roadstar at 5:30 on a Friday night on a long weekend (really a much longer story). Anyway the Roady cable is a HUGE!!!!!! improvement over the aftermarkets. Fatter, smoother and a lot easier on my hand. It doesn't have the bend that the Warrior cable has at the top. I highly recommend it. [/quote]The Barnett SS Clutch Cable is far superior to the OEM earlier black cable, pre '06', and probably still better than the current version because of their construction

Regarding Discolration, not an issue at all with the Barnett cable or Galfer hoses .... Black is Beautiful ...

[quote user="AlanH"]Unlike the OEM cable the BARNETT clutch cable has a 2-pc connection at the clutch lever barrel joint and the lever assy @ the clutch case that probably prevents twisting and less stress to the swaged ends than the OEM cable.

The swagged end at the lever is made up of 2 pcs similar to a ball and socket and appears to be more flexible with less stress acting on the cable

IMHO, the straight end at the clutch lever is more desirable for the 'TT' bars. The OEM style angled fitting applies undue stress to the stranded clutch cable with straight bars

I had Barnett fabricate a std length clutch cable with a Road* straight end at the clutch lever that i purchased thru Phats mid '05' that has reduced the pull force of the lever. Enclosing some jpegs of the cable.

BTW, i'm not the pioneer of this cable mod, just duped it from a forum member and can't remember who....so thanks []

[
[/quote]

[quote user="AlanH"]

[quote user="Justin "]

I'm on my 3rd cable. Dunno why they keep busting on me. Maybe since it's a +4. Anyways I got my newest one from http://www.motionpro.com/search/motorcycle/armor_coat_cables/ I like the build of it over barnett and also it was made and mailed quick.

[/quote]Justin .... taken from an earlier post of yours, Sat, May 24 2008 5:24 PM

clutch cable size. Edit with Pic: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/110845/912646.aspx#912646

Here's what a Barnett looks like from my ride. The Barrel rotates about the swaged end so there isn't any twisting. I would suggest you check your cable routing for the cause of the failures and also a close inspection of the threaded adjustment screw @ the perch for a sharp burr, lever pivot bolt & brg although the failure appears to be caused by tension.

[quote user="rockstar666"]

Hey Guys,

Just wondering what the difference is between barnett clutch cable and the regular stock one? Is it worth the difference?

Thanks[/quote]I don't remember the difference in cost, if there is one but it's definitely a better engineered product and won't stretch once adjusted. Their new High Efficiency clutch cables feature a nylon coated inner wire and are better yet IMO! Here's a couple of photos of the Barrel & swaged ends after 22,000 miles Just like new... no deformation or twisting

[/quote]

Re: Clutch Cable

AlanH — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Justin "]

[/quote]Justin .... taken from an earlier post of yours, Sat, May 24 2008 5:24 PM

clutch cable size. Edit with Pic: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/110845/912646.aspx#912646

[quote user="rockstar666"]

Hey Guys,

Just wondering what the difference is between barnett clutch cable and the regular stock one? Is it worth the difference?

Re: Cable length-please help-need advice-soon

AlanH — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Davan"]

I am trying to shorten mine, so I know the answer to your question since I have been playing with mine too. If you want to get new cables, go to http://www.motionpro.com/ I[/quote]Davan ... just a friendly heads up from previous members posts on this forum. Your Vendor of choice has had premature failures of their cluch cables on the Warrior.

Pay the xtra $'s and go 1st class with a Barnett low friction clutch cable. It's worth the wait IMO

Here's some reading mat'l if interested: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25018/368110.aspx#368110

[quote user="AlanH"]

[quote user="rockstar666"]

Hey Guys,

Just wondering what the difference is between barnett clutch cable and the regular stock one? Is it worth the difference?

[/quote]

Re: Clutch cable

AlanH — Tue, 06 May 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="rockstar666"]

Hey Guys,

Just wondering what the difference is between barnett clutch cable and the regular stock one? Is it worth the difference?

Re: Clutch plate replacement pointers - Pull Lever Adjustment

AlanH — Sun, 13 Apr 2008 04:00:00 GMT

The following is not to be considered boiler plate but has proved beneficial for my '04' bike with the SS Barnett cable

I found that the factory 1.23 inch dimension to vary between 1.125 - 1.375 inch on my bike over the years. The difference being 1-spline or tooth on the clutch pull shaft lever. If you run to the minimum dimension, such as 1.125", the pull lever spring is under more tension/pre-load and will help alleviate or reduce the sloppy lazy clutch lever if the cable is lubricated properly.

By going to the smaller dimension requires correcting the additional cable slack at the middle adjuster or at the clutch lever. If and when the clutch pack wears the lever can always be moved back 1-tooth.

NOTE: Adjustments to be done with engine cold

Re: Clutch Cable

AlanH — Fri, 11 May 2007 04:00:00 GMT

RF_WIZ.... the following is taken from this earlier thread:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50615

Also, the orientation of the slot in the cable adjustment bolt can cause premature failure IMO

Unlike the OEM cable the BARNETT clutch cable has a 2-pc connection at the clutch lever barrel joint and the lever assy @ the clutch perch that probably prevents twisting and less stress to the swaged ends than the OEM cable.

The swagged end at the lever is made up of 2 pcs similar to a ball and socket and appears to be more flexible with less stress acting on the cable

IMHO, the straight end at the clutch lever is more desirable for the 'TT' bars. The OEM style angled fitting applies undue stress to the stranded clutch cable with straight bars

I had Barnett fabricate a std length clutch cable with a Road* straight end at the clutch lever that i purchased thru Phats mid '05' that has reduced the pull force of the lever. Enclosing some jpegs of the cable.

BTW, i'm not the pioneer of this cable mod, just duped it from a forum member and can't remember who....so thanks []

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