Search results matching tag 'Clutch'

Re: Clutch Slipping Need HELP!

AlanH — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Brian Karr"]

I just took off my old 6.5" risers to send them in to be re-chromed and installed a set of 5.5" risers. What has happened is when I am rolling in 2nd-4th gears and roll the throttle back hard my RPM's skyrocket and then you can feel, at least to me, clutch slipping then it grabs and you take off. The clutch has always been hard to operate but now it is just a little harder. There is NO play in the lever, meaning when you touch the lever it starts the high rev's. I have checked the cable to make sure it is not pinched in anyway. CAN SOMEONE HELP I WANT THE TAKE OFF SPEED AGAIN!!

[/quote]Brian Karr .... if the slipping was a result of swapping over risers i would suspect that the small swaged cable end at the clutch case has become dislodged in the pull-lever retainer causing a false over adjustment resulting in slipping.

A simple inspection of the terminated connection is the Tell-Tale ... I've seen this occurence personally on others bikes and also in the field.

If the cable end is dislodged you'll need to slacken it and reposition the swaged end properly in the pivot bracket and then readjust the cable

Thom .... do you recognize this photo

Clutch/Tranny Problem

thecowboy — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

Hey, I am having a problem with my clutch and/or tranny. I haven't ridden my bike in about 8 months and am currently trying to sell it(moving and only allowed one vehicle).

Anyway, I was showing the bike when I couldn't get the bike out of first gear. I was in my driveway, uphill and it seemed like the wheel was completely locked up and the bike wouldn't start at all. I had to roll it uphill a few inches to get it in nuetral. When I got it into nuetral, the bike was slamming into first and stalling out. I eventually got it to shift into first without to much of jolt and got back into my garage.

I am not sure if this is related to the tranny recall or not, but I thought I had it done, maybe not. I a not knowledgable with motorcycles, so if this is a stupid problem, sorry. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Clutch questions...

AlanH — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="WannaB"]

2. the wire ring in the back of the basket acts like a "marcel spring" (google it). basically it keeps clutch chatter down, so re-install it.

[/quote]The round wire circlip retains the clutch damper assy in the clutch boss and shouldn't need to be serviced at 30,000 miles. I suggest you download the early Yamaha Factory Manual here: http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/warrior_service.pdf and proceed to Chapter & pages 5-59 through 5-61 for a full description and proper assembly drawing of the clutch stack.

The parts Fiche break down shown below in JamesD reply is not correct and items 31 are the Marcel Springs (cushion spring) that fit inside the 2-half disc (23) and between the steel plates to cushion the stock assy

If you read my earlier response and referenced bullet point Barnett Clutch Spring Conv's SR-2 Rev A – UPDATED you will see the parts that i replaced at 33,000 miles and other comments.

Unless your bike was blatantly abused by the previous owner I suspect that your slipping problem is attributed to a worn diaphragm spring only and can be resolved by upgrading to the Barnett SR-2 plate. You should inspect the components before ordering the friction parts IMO.

[quote user="Warrior_84"]

Thanks again for all the info! A question (probably a very stupid question) on that diagram with the numbered parts, what is 31?

Item 31 noted above but wouldn't be used if you swap over to the 2-full plates as the springs won't fit inside the full disc

And another one, what is the benefit of going with the full friction plates as opposed to halves? It seems like some of the people on those different threads use the halves and then some don't...

Less slippage for instant lock-up on the higher performance upgraded engines. I would suggest you stick with the Yamaha engineered stacked assy since the Barnett plate with the std Gold spring is a high performance upgrade IMO.

PS. Where's the cheapest/best place to order all the plates and stuff from?

Probably here: http://www.motorsportssuperstore.com/default.asp

[/quote]EDITED: Here's a HOW TO presented by REDHORSE... it's the stock clutch assembly: Stock Clutch Install SlideShow by Redhorse

Re: Clutch questions...

AlanH — Thu, 04 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SmaShitUp(mike7202)"]

sorry to hijack this thread but I do have a question pertaining to the barnetts conversion. I am currently in the process of installing the barnetts kit and replacing my CPS with the recall kit.

My question is that i see on the stock plate where the arrows line up for indexing but i dont see anywhere on the barnett plate where there is an arrow or any place to index it to. does the barnett plate need to be indexed?

... yes the plate needs to be indexed although there are no markings!

if so how?

The instruction sheet included w/ the Barnett plate describes the HOW TO:

Just clock the pressure plate w/o the last friction disc in place and it will be obvious when it engages the teeth in the Clutch Boss. If i'm not mistaken it will then also fit 180 deg about too ... Match mark the plate & boss and finish installing the disc etc .....
Here's some hosted photos of my install: CPS Recall & Barnett SR-2 Pressure Plate

thanks[/quote]Warrior_84 & SmaShitUp(mike7202) .... here's some helpful threads that discuss the install as well as the sheared edge of the plate and elimination of the 1/2 friction disc and cushion springs etc.

Clutch Component Dynamics

AlanH — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 05:00:00 GMT

Yup, it's interesting how things get lost in translation

Item 5 & Item 32 are both listed as PUSH components in the Yamaha Parts Fiche but in the Real World are PULL components as is the Clutch Cable

The clutch cable PULLS the Lever 5 CCW which in turn rotates the shaft 7 causing the small pinion near the end to rotate CCW translating the rotary motion to a Linear movement thru the rack gear machined on one face of Item 32 which in turn PULLS against the pressure plate Item 25 via the Brg 32 relaxing the clutch plates for shifting.

When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout

Follow the Pope's Instructions HERE!

[quote user="Arizona Warrior"]

.... One extra tip, I also like to watch the clutch case "push lever" (item #5 below) act and make sure the lever is 'just' landing (so the cable is just barely going slack) to assure good clutch disc contact without using up too much cable range for adjustments.

[/quote]

Re: Best Clutch Pack ?

AlanH — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Bladerunr"]

Thanks for the input guys, "mush-aprish" as they say around here.

Looks like I'll go with what JamesD has, swapping out the two half frictions, and replace the third half friction with stock. That is, if I understand what Alan is saying??

Alan, I bet you're right about the hub and basket, but I am a cheap sob and I'm hoping for the best. I'll get a mike on those drive plates but they don't seem to wear much. Claudia's V-star had 89k on it and the drive plates looked like new??

Flatness of the steel plates is just as critical. Be sure to read the Clutch plate replacement pointers - Recommended Reading that i provided earlier. Has some excellent pointers regarding the installation and direction of the sheared/stamped parts being installed in the same direction!

And yes, I have a spanking new CPS kit on the bench waiting for a good reason to crack that case for more than a year now.

You'll probably need a cross point impact screw driver to remove the 2-CPS screws.

The "pull rod brg"?? Same as clutch release or throw out bearing??

I think that one goes with the Barnett plate

It's the OEM brg that fits within the c'bore of the Barnett plate

... should outlast the bike.

I don't know about that but you're in the Pilot's seat on this one!

I thought about sending the Barnett plate in for replacement, I'm sure they will if I ask. I don't want to take the down time.

I had mine back in 3 or 4 days at no charge. They are located in Ventura as you know

Maybe next time I need frictions at 200k. You know what... I didn't replace the bolts last time.

Don't suppose you remember what size those are do ya??

Almost ... Hex Head machine bolts M6 x 1.0 pitch - stock screws are 25mm long

Barnett provided 6-new bolts with the SR-2 kit that were slightly longer (30-35mm) and also 6-heavy washers

Suggest you call Barnett to confirm proper length

Arizona, I don't have a lot of good things to say about Barnett's line of cables. Near as I can remember... I've had three of them. Motion Pro, and Barron's too. All broke on me and left me stranded. Right now my bike has an old ugly black fat plastic YAMAHA cable on it that has lasted twice as long as the best Barnett can make.

The reason it has lasted so long is because it has a straight end at the clutch perch and not a 45 deg just like my custom Barnett cable

Ken, i suspect your extremely wide burly bars and possible constraints of the custom fairing with the angled cable end was causing a premature wear to the stranded cable in the bend .... but i've been wrong before

I don't have the number but it fits 99 and up 1600 RoadStar, !SEVEN! dollars on eBay! It's a lil bit too short.

[/quote]

Re: I am sooo confused ... clutch problem

AlanH — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 04:00:00 GMT

The Clutch Boss Assy with all its related parts will not solve your problem and shouldn't be req'd at such low miles. There isn't a "Clutch Kit" PN by Yamaha. You need to order the individual parts listed below!

6 - Item 22 PLATE, FRICTION 3
2 - Item 23 PLATE, FRICTION
7 - Item 24 PLATE,CLUTCH 1
1 - Crankcase cover gasket 5VN-15451-00-00

I would suggest a Barnett pressure plate conversion kit w/ std gold springs or a new Clutch Diamphram Spring (26) or a Speed* equivalent since you overheated the whole assy!

If you don't go with the Barnett you should inspect the existing pressure plate.

Edited: Here's a video by Redhorse:

http://img485.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img485%2F5723%2F1149054461ef2.smil

Clutch plate replacement pointers:

Recommended Reading: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/107702/894063.aspx#894063
Recommended Reading: http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/clutch_replacement/index.html

Barnett Info by writer: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/29213/392300.aspx#392300

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/29213/429400.aspx#429400

Re: Clutch plate replacement pointers - Pull Lever Adjustment

AlanH — Sun, 13 Apr 2008 04:00:00 GMT

The following is not to be considered boiler plate but has proved beneficial for my '04' bike with the SS Barnett cable

I found that the factory 1.23 inch dimension to vary between 1.125 - 1.375 inch on my bike over the years. The difference being 1-spline or tooth on the clutch pull shaft lever. If you run to the minimum dimension, such as 1.125", the pull lever spring is under more tension/pre-load and will help alleviate or reduce the sloppy lazy clutch lever if the cable is lubricated properly.

By going to the smaller dimension requires correcting the additional cable slack at the middle adjuster or at the clutch lever. If and when the clutch pack wears the lever can always be moved back 1-tooth.

NOTE: Adjustments to be done with engine cold

Clutch plate replacement pointers - Recommended Reading

AlanH — Sun, 13 Apr 2008 04:00:00 GMT

Anyone contemplating replacing their clutch plates should read the May 2008 Motorcycle Cruiser SHOPTALK HOW-TO Clutch Replacement article starting on page 82!

Edited link: http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/clutch_replacement/index.html

Edited: http://www.flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157603408125806/detail/

~~Their articles on the WEB appear to have some type of roaming IP address, so the url's don't work~~

The enclosed jpeg photos and information is taken from an earlier article on their site but is essentially the same info!

Here's a really good pointer IMO that's not in the shop Manual!

The steel plates are usually made of stamped metal, with one rounded edge and one sharp edge. Some mechanics say to make sure the steel plates are installed with the sharp edge facing the pressure plate, or excessive outer hub wear may result. Barnett says it doesn't matter if the sharp edges face in or out, but all of the steel plates must be installed facing the same way.

Stock Clutch Install SlideShow by Redhorse

AlanH — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 05:00:00 GMT

I think this is presented by REDHORSE... it's the stock clutch assembly: Stock Clutch Install SlideShow by Redhorse

My Barnett SR-2 kit came with 6-new hex hd bolts