Search results matching tag 'Click of Death'

Re: Back to the fun fast blinking and load equalizers

AlanH — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="TECK"]

Thanks, Alan. That was exactly what I needed. Out of curiosity, what made you switch from the Signal Dynamics dual load EQ to your custom made product?

I originally purchased the Kuryakyn 4807 which is advertised as a 4 amp device which was bogus

Read this: LEQ Kuryakyn 4807 & 4810

Then i contacted SDC regarding their LEQ product and specifications but they wouldn't divulge the load ratings so i went to their distributor, NoPork, which is close to my house and picked up 1-unit with the understanding that only 1 device was req'd for frt & rear

1 device was not adequate and in fact only drew approx 1.8 amps when connected directly across a car battery. Less than a Kury 4810. The beauty of the SDC device is that it's encapsulated within an aluminum finned heat-sink which is 1st class.
The area i had allocated for the LEQ wouldn't acomodate 2-SDC devices.

That being the case i decided to build my own LEQ and purchased the components from Mouser as well as a sealed relay to prevent the COD. My total landed cost was approx $13.50

Also, just to make sure I don't make any mistakes, the 1K 10 watt aluminum cased resistor taps into this blue wire?

Yes it does (Blue running light wire) as well as the Grnd.
As you are aware i use a sealed Relay as shown above with a 90 ohm coil that produces 1.6w @ 12v
I WOULD SUGGEST YOU USE A 100 ohm 10 watt resistor as the 1K device is to high a resistance IMO and not reliable

At 14.8v it will produce 2.2w which is way under it's capacity and equivalent to my relay and also a small instrument bulb that ranges between 2-3watt
The NTE # 10WM110 or equivalent

http://www.nteinc.com/resistor_web/pdf/5w_10w_alum.pdf

Have your engine running when testing the flasher blink rate. The output voltage is higher and the lighting devices will produce more watts and draw more amps making them slow down if a marginal flash situation.

I will take some screenshots soon, to highlight how the new wiring was done, especially with the new fender and license plate lights.
Right now, the new fender built from scratch will be soon used for barbecue purposes, due to it's bad quality built. I brought today my bike to Montreal Choppers shop and they will build a custom fender for my Warrior.[/quote]

Click of Death Solution #2

ArizonaWarrior — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

This download picture was provided by a member some time ago, and I don't have his name recorded (my apology). As we know, the 'click of death' is the chattering decompression solonoid when you turn the bike off with the handlebar off-switch, and is caused by having no incandescent front running lights to drain residual power on shutdown. The stock front running lights connect by a blue wire with plug inside the headlight bucket, and one solution is to install a resistor in the plug, but another option is to install a small incandescent bulb in the plug. This plug can power any front LED running lights, plus an incandescent bulb, no problem.

The bulb can be hidden in the headlight bucket as long as the bulb's heat is kept away from other wires to avoid damage, same as with a resistor. At least one member ran an always-on under-seat light from this plug, which accomplishes the power-drain when shutting-down and also solves the click of death. At least one member powered a side-mount incandescent license plate light just to enable the drain.

Re: Start problems..

AlanH — Tue, 23 Dec 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="warriordude"]

I have been trying to sort this out my self. I have had the bike for about a year and it will sometimes, after shutdown, not turn everything off. speedo backlighting flash and some other relay clicking going on. The guy I bought the bike from,it's a 02, told me to shut off the bike...first kick it out of gear and then shut off with key,not kill switch and then lower the kick stand. I have my bike down right now for winter mods and hope to fix this glitch. I have done a search here at our 4m with no luck. I know U have a start up problem and to my shut off ,~~but I think we will find that thay are related ,switch contacted or diode in relay pack~~.. [/quote]warriordude .... your problem is a simple fix and well documented on this site for some years. It's the result of removing the front incandescent (filament bulb) running lights and rear license light and there are several simple fixes.

A search for Click of death, COD or Solenoid Syndrome will bring up lots of press with a detailed explanation such as these:

HELP!!! Electrical problem and I'm lost: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25365/371896.aspx#371896

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/122316/979431.aspx#979431

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/22258/282150.aspx#282150

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/16485/268137.aspx#268137

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25934/377658.aspx#377658

Re: LED front turn signal/running lights.

AlanH — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Ruckus"]

OK, so I need 2 Eclipz Modules and 2 LEQ's? Is that right? I wire the LED's through the module and the blue power wires through the LEQ's?[/quote]George, i'm going to respond to this but once as clearly as possible because there seems to be some confusion here and hopefully others will support what i say

The suggested module by royale5 is a pair for the LH & RH Frt LED light strips. As stated earlier, be sure your new LED's don't draw more than 300mA ... i doubt that this will be a problem... chk your vendor specs
Based on the photos of the module i see 3-wires (Blk, Red, Org) that i assume are the inputs and 2-wires (Blk, Red) that are the outputs that will connect to the new LED strips. The Inputs will connect to the existing Warrior wiring (chk vendor instructions)

Brown/Chocolate=LH T/S, Blue=Running Light, Black=Grnd
Green=RH T/S, Blue=Running Light, Black=Grnd

For starters you'll need at least 1-LEQ as i stated earlier .... This device does not, I REPEAT, does not connect to the Blue running light circuit. The COD is an entirely different issue so set that aside.

The LEQ (3-wire device) must be connected in parallel with the T/S circuit wiring. Doesn't matter where. I disclosed my methodology earlier in the links

The Kuryakyn 4810 has 3-wires. 1-Blk & 2-Purple

Blk to Warrior Blk
Purple to Warrior Brown
Purple to Warrior Green

If this doesn't correct the factory flash rate add another 4810 or any equivalent LEQ on the market. It's possible to source a single adjustable LEQ from other vendors i suspect for more $'s ... your choice.

The COD will require an Active or Passive device as already stated earlier and i will not repeat myself except for the hard wire connections

No matter what you choose, it will have 2-wires only & is a parallel connection

Connect 1-wire to the Warrior Blue running light wire & 1-wire to the Warrior Blk Grnd wire located in several places on the bike as stated earlier

Disclaimer: Be advised that i have never personally used this Eclipze Module but would have if it was available 5-yrs ago in lieu of my Kuryakn 2372 mod. I suggest you use some minature wire nuts and or jumpers to temporarily make your connections before fully committed!

Good Luck

Re: LED front turn signal/running lights.

AlanH — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 05:00:00 GMT

[quote user="royale5"]

This is what the controler looks like http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/eclipze_module.jpg

And here is where you order them http://www.customdynamics.com/eclipze_module.htm

[/quote] +1 ...

This is the way to go as long as your new LED strip doesn't draw more than 300mA

This 3-wire device operates the running lights @ 100% intensity and the turn signal from 100% to 0% (OFF) for a full contrast as stated.

My dual circuit 3-wire Kuryakyn 2372 LED rear lights operate exactly as stated above and are very visible at night. I've had nothing but positive comments from others!

You're going to need 2-Kuryakyn #4810 LEQ's to correct the flash rate unless the integrated rear taillight already has something to handle the load. If that's the case start w/ 1-LEQ

The COD (Click of Death) can be corrected in several ways. Depends if you want to use an active (incandescent bulb or relay) or passive (resistor) device. Examples: 12v - 3watt instrument bulb, horn relay or 1k - 10watt resistor. You'll need to connect any of these devices to the Blue running light wire that is available in several places on the bike. Head light, under seat or rear taillight

If interested here's some links of mine:

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626135/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626389/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602601844694/

Re: Turn Off Running Lights? HELP

AlanH — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="Churchkey"]

[quote user="dguy"]

Won't the click-of-death manifest itself with no running lights the same way as it would with LED replacements?

[/quote]

Yes it will.

It is the blue wire.

You can install a small automotive bulb similar to a dash light bulb in the curcuit & leave it inside the headlight bucket. The ECU reads a completed circuit & the "click of death" will not occur.

[/quote]If the rear OEM license plate light is connected there will be no COD

Re: ? about LEDs, resultant elec problems - **UPDATED*

AlanH — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 05:00:00 GMT

The shut down issue (Electrical: Click of Death: Solenoid Syndrome) aka Click of Death, COD can be corrected in several convenient locations where you can pickup the Blue running light wire and GRND.

Headlight housing - Front running lights snap connectors

Under the ECU - Rear fender harness - Hitachi 5-pin connector
Rear Taillight - Tail or License light snap connectors

Although the frt running lights are separately fused (Headlight Circuit) from the Frt/Rear Turn Signals, Tail/Brake Light and License Plate Light (Signal Circuit) the result of adding a small resistive load from the Blue wire to GRND in any of these locations will solve the problem.

I believe Bugei has his 1K ohm 10 watt resistor hanging on the rear taillight which is equivalent to my 100 ohm sealed Relay under the seat being on the exact same Blue wire.

Retaining the stock incadescent License light will prevent the problem as well as going with a dual filament incadescent aftermarket frt run/turn light.

Others have a small instrument bulb in the headlight housing. Here's the PIONEER of that mod and the original thread: 99stangit

aftermarket blinkers (how to). No cliking noise

Clicking Sound Fix

AlanH — Sat, 01 Sep 2007 04:00:00 GMT

For those that don't like Resistors or Bulbs an alternative and also not mounted in the headlight for my install

Here's something that is bullet proof. It's a sealed standard automotive relay wired up to the rear running light circuit and acts as a resisitor. Draws 0.125 amp, 1.6 watts consumption, 90 ohms and only gets warm.
Just wire the coil only (Terminals 85 and 86) and will out last the bike. Cost $2.88 from Mouser Electronics. Doesn't matter about the contact configuration as you won't be using them. This coil is rated at 10G shock and millions of cycles

Wire Coil Terminals 85 and 86 ONLY to the Running light Circuit, Blue and Black wires. The contacts aren't used

Re: Strange buzzing

AlanH — Sun, 29 Jul 2007 04:00:00 GMT

chucksshadow
With your current configuration you will inherit the Click of Death (solenoid syndrome) if you turn the bike off with the kill switch while in gear or flashing/glowing speedo light if you turn the bike off in gear with the ignition switch causing the battery to go dead Read these threads for a solution
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/24131/358619.aspx#358619
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25365/371896.aspx#371896
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/22258/282150.aspx#282150

I currently have wired into my running light circuit a 1K (1000 ohm) x 10 watt resistor (kudos to Bugei with some help from me ) that draws 0.01 amps and generates almost no heat that i'm testing. Previously, i had a 12v sealed auto relay with the coil rated at 90 ohm which drew 0.12 amps. This was/is my solution to discharge the electrical circuit without incadesent running and or license lighting!

Check my homepage Yahoo photos listed in my user profile for the url. The folder you want is Running Light Resistor & Relay folder.

Rapid flashing turn signals are another issue and can be handled very effectively with a purchased LEQ. Generally speaking 2 amp is req'd for either the frt or rear and 4 amp for both!

There is also a file folder, Dual Load Equalizer - 30w 2.8 ohm in the Yahoo photos!

COD - Click of Death aka Solenoid Syndrome

AlanH — Sun, 13 May 2007 04:00:00 GMT

My .02 regarding Item 2 (Click of Death aka Solenoid Syndrome):
The Warrior electrical system needs to bleed-off/drain when the ignition is turned off.
If the ignition kill switch is operated with the trans in gear the electrical system drains off through the Blue running light wire.

The lack of a INCADESENT BULB or the conversion to total LED's for the front running lights and also the rear license light prevents this from happening. LED's (light-emitting diode) only allow the electricity to flow in one direction.

EDITED: 01/30/08
Because of the very slight voltage drop across the LED, the circuit is unable to completely drain to Ground!
~~Oposite to the direction required for draining the system.~~

Hence, the addition of a small incadesent bulb or resisitor in the running light circuit resolves the issue as bugei described!

Actual example: My Warrior had Sylvania Silverstar 1157A incadesent Bulbs in the front Deuce running/turn signals. Rear lights Kuryakyn 2372 Red Dual circuit LED running and turn signal with a Radiantz Billet Clear LED License Plate Frame. Flash rate was compensated with a Kuryakyn 4810 LEQ. Ran this set-up for 2-years without any problems

Revised new lighting this past week: Upgraded the front incadesent Deuce lighting to New Dual Circuit LED's (cluster of 40 ea light). Rear lighting remained as is except that i replaced the 4810 LEQ to a higher amp Signal Dynamics LEQ mounted under my seat.

OK...Yup...guess what... [?]
The Click of Death aka Solenoid Syndrome now resides on my bike

The moral to this exercise is that LED's in the running light circuits won't resolve the issue. Must be a bulb/resistor to set things right and it doesn't take much as bugei stated. The running light circuits are available in the headlight, under the seat and the tail/license lights!

BTW, i never shut my bike off in gear with the kill switch. I always reach and turn the key off if parking in gear

Also FYI, the Kuryakyn 4810 LEQ is a 2~terminal single ceramic resistor with 2-diodes that attach to 1~terminal of the resistor. The wires then connect to the POS signal light wires respectively. The diodes prevent feedback to the opposing signal not in use. The other terminal of the resistor connects to ground.

quote:

Originally posted by bugei

just so you don't waste a ton of time. there are two different issues with leds:

1) fast flashing, caused by changing to led turn signals, this is fixed with load equalizers or resistors in parallel to the turn signal wires.

2) the click of death from the decompression solonoid, this is caused by not having running lights, or changing the running lights to leds, the fix is the 1000 ohm resistor detailed above, or the hidden light bulb also detailed above, placed in the running light circuit.

i went off 1/2 baked not realizing that there were 2 distinct issues, and wasted a ton of time.

be safe