Search results matching tag 'Adjustment or calibration'

Electric Starting System Diagram Documentation 101

AlanH — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

The referenced diagram: http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/My%20Documents/Chapter%207%20pgs%2023-27%20warrior_service_manual.pdf is misleading and difficult to follow if you don't understand the state of the interlock devices that are conditional as shown on the diagram.

Here are the state of the devices if interested

5 - Engine Kill Switch open
6 - Starting Circuit Relay Deenergized
8 - Clutch hand lever released (Not Operated)
9 - Diode Relay Unit is False until the conditions change for 8 & 10 or 11 to initiate Start Interlocks below:

8 & 10 - The Clutch SW is closed & The Sidestand SW is Closed (Sidestand UP)
11 - Neutral SW Closed

10 - Sidestand Down (Closes Sidestand Up)
11 - Bike in Gear (Closes in Neutral)
12 - Starter PB not depressed
14 - Starter Relay (Solenoid) Deenergized

Re: Wires from clutch lever?????

AlanH — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 04:00:00 GMT

EDITED: Oops

FWIW, the clutch interlock switch is a Normally Closed Contact, held open (NCHO.) when the clutch lever is released (Not operated). When the lever is operated the NCHO contact recloses!

Item 8 here: http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/My%20Documents/Chapter%207%20pgs%2023-27%20warrior_service_manual.pdf

[quote user="wyomingwarrior"]

[quote user="independent_lemming"]

When I went internal wired bars I just soldered them together in the light bucket and made a shunt on the system. Dont know if the switch in normally open or normally closed but it didnt matter since I always start in nuetral.

[/quote]

Ahhh.... that was going to be my next question.

Thanks guys![/quote]

Re: Sputtering @ 1900 rpm all the time

AlanH — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SWODude"]

Here's step 3, from page 7-64 of the manual:

[quote user="Service Manual"]

3. Adjust:

• throttle position sensor angle

a. Disconnect the throttle position sensor coupler

from the throttle position sensor.

b. Connect the pocket tester (Ω × 1k) to the

throttle position sensor.

Positive tester probe → blue 1

Negative tester probe → black 2

c. Measure the throttle position sensor maximum

resistance.

d. Calculate the throttle position sensor maximum

resistance when the throttle is closed.

Throttle position sensor maximum
resistance (throttle is fully closed) =
Maximum resistance × (0.13 ~ 0.15)

[/quote]

So am I missing something here? If ~~black~~ BLUE -black resistance should be constant, then why are they telling me in Step 3 that the resistance should be lower with the throttle closed? And if my TPS were fine, then why do I get the sputter with abrupt throttle changes, especially when I hit bumps or potholes? And no, I'm not getting any trouble codes or warning lights. [/quote]NOTE: The photos in my 1st reply have been edited with details of the procedure! Also, our manuals must differ as Item 3 is on page 7-67 of my manual

The shop manual is written-up as Items 1 - 3. Item 1 TPS on throttle body (TB), Item 2 TPS removed from TB & Item 3 Adjusting the TPS sensor angle with the throttle closed on TB!

Your current TPS max ohm is 5.6k ohm = 5.6 x 1000 (k) = 5600 ohm: 5600 x 0.13 = 728 and 5600 x 0.15 = 840

Your CURRENT TPS @ throttle closed should be adjusted to: 728 - 840 ohm @ T2 & T3

Your target for the above should be: 784 ohm with the current TPS, which is the mean/middle number. Just be sure to be within the tol

As stated above, this is a very sensitive adjustment and as you tighten the 2-tamper proof screws on the TPS you'll see what i mean.

Once again i suggest you connect your VOM to T2 & T3 and you'll see the variable resistance as you operate the shaft of the TPS from closed to open!

Your latest diagnosis is becoming dynamic now with bumps & potholes & i never asked about codes

My .02 is that your TPS is fine but i've been wrong before .... GOOD LUCK

Re: Sputtering @ 1900 rpm all the time

AlanH — Sat, 02 Aug 2008 04:00:00 GMT

[quote user="SWODude"]

Had the recall done last year. I'll get a cheap multimeter and do the check IAW the service manual.

UPDATE (2 AUG 08):

I got a multimeter and did the test. I'm getting about 5.6 kOhms and the resistance does not change with the throttle. I haven't removed the TPS yet. I'll do that tomorrow and see if the TPS is somehow not coupled to the throttle bodies (my kid was distracting me). Is this what was wrong with the sensors that were recalled? Somehow, the bike runs fairly well and I can ignore the sputtering and I can even keep it from happening if I flog the throttle from every stop. But it's not right.[/quote]5.6 k ohms is the maximum resistance of the TPS and acceptable

Be sure you are using the proper scale on your VOM for step 2 when checking the variable resistance while opening the throttle and that you're connected to the proper terminals of the TPS. The test is performed w/ the TPS 3-prong plug disconnected and starts at a much lower ohm reading. If you're on to high a scale (high resistance) you won't see a change.

It's possible that the TPS recall wasn't done properly by the technician. The factory manual is well documented for the procedure (some simple math based on the resistance of the new TPS) as i replaced mine out of pocket before the recalls ... Here's a thread of mine showing my tools of choice for testing & replacing:

Disclaimer: This contribution/reply of mine is in no way an endoresment of replacing your TPS. Just presenting the facts

My Warrior is acting freaky...Need help! UPDATED!! http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/23954/356931.aspx#356931
(TPS) Yamaha Recall http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/2819/46734.aspx#46734

[quote user="AlanH"]Mon, Oct 2 2006 9:33 PM

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/23954/356933.aspx#356933

Photos of TPS during testing & replacement as well as crimp terminals & tools used during R&R and calibration

Checking & Adjusting Throttle Position Sensor Angle - Terminals (T) 2 & 3

[

Adjusting Throttle Position Sensor Angle (CLOSED) - T2 & T3 - Throttle Closed 667 ohm. This is a very sensitive adjustment and the reason for a tolerance/range. I shot for the mid-range - This adjustment is done on a lower resistance scale of the VOM!

[

Rechecking Maximum Throttle Position Sensor Resistance - T2 & T1

View of TPS coupler assembled. From L to R: Blk = T2, Yel = T3, Blu = T1

[[[/quote]

Re: TPS recall, now error code 16

AlanH — Wed, 29 Aug 2007 04:00:00 GMT

I would suggest doing a sensor test in diagnosis to check the throttle angle only so no need to disconnect the Fuel Pump as instructed:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49924

DI 01 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR: TWIST THROTTLE, VALUE = : CLOSED =15 - 20, OPEN = 95 - 100

I replaced my TPS about a year ago before the recall and it's not a difficult task if you follow the Yamaha shop manual. Here's a couple of threads:
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43717&SearchTerms=TPS
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=56500&SearchTerms=tps

The input female hex socket shaft of the TPS must be put onto the throttle shaft properly else you can't achieve the proper ohm setting at full close []
Think of the TPS as a spring loaded variable resistor. It operates in a CCW direction when viewed from the shaft side and is under slight preload when assembled to the throttle body.

I don't know if it's possible to install it with more preload and still achieve full throttle. As i recall there is also a caution note in the manual regarding an o-ring from the old TPS remaining in the throttle body cavity.

Good Luck

Re: Brake Lever Adjustment - Advice.

AlanH — Wed, 25 Jul 2007 04:00:00 GMT

The brake lever is not splined! It rotates on a brass bushing.

The brake pedal pushrod has some limited adjustment @ the master cylinder (MC) and doesn't require removal of any parts.

You must use caution when making this adjustment. Lengthening the pushrod will increase the pedal height but be sure that the pedal lever doesn't touch the exhaust pipe and indirectly cause the pushrod to collapse the MC piston! Also, be sure that there is enough threads in engagement when done.

As you stated, adjustment of the stop light switch should be checked.

The Owners's Manual has instructions that clearify the above []

Edited - Taken from an earlier post:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39305&SearchTerms=brake,pedal

Re: rear pully/belt squeek

AlanH — Sat, 17 Feb 2007 05:00:00 GMT

mctree....look at his gallery. It's an '07' [:0]
I suspect i's not worn out yet []

As stated earlier, IMO the belt alignment and freeplay needs to be inspected or adjusted. A visual inspection of the related parts on a lift would be in order first.

During the process of modifying my swingarm for the 240 Tire i came up with this method of squaring up the wheel in the swing arm on a repeat basis. It's a 4" Starrette square very repeatable and accurrate being used as a depth gauge or story stick.

quote:
Originally posted by mctree

Look real close at the pulleys. The belt will creak and squeek when the pulleys are worn out.

Re: Help ASAP (Problem solved thanks)

AlanH — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:00:00 GMT

THE TPS WILL NOT BE SET UP ACCURATELY IF THE DIAGNOSTIC MODE OF THE ECU IS USED FOR THE PROCEDURE [:0] and that's all i have to say about that!

If your bike is running perfectly fine based on your scenario then consider yourself lucky or the procedure outlined in the factory manual is more forgiving than discussed

Actual ohm readings and some simple math establish the proper adjustment for each new TPS []

quote:
Originally posted by longdrives

It is my understanding from observing the TPS is set by using the digital (diag) callup on the tach....the TPS has a total of 18 different increments. Mine was set by observing the diag readings..... no ohm meter. Diag 01, throttle fully closed (15-20), fully open (95-100).

Re: Help ASAP (Problem solved thanks)

AlanH — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:00:00 GMT

I would take it to another dealer [}] [] [V]

The calculation for setting up the closed position of the TPS doesn't involve anything more than using an ohm meter (ohms x 1).

Connections are made directly to the TPS terminals with the harness plug disconnected and key off!

I've done the job personally so i'm talking with hands on experience []

Re: Help ASAP (Problem solved thanks)

AlanH — Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:00:00 GMT

FYI, my new replacement TPS had no effect on the Throttle Body Angle readings, before & after, from the ECU in the diag mode for both full open (93) and closed (15).

quote:

Originally posted by BlackStar

After the TPS is calibrated to the throttle position with an ohmmeter it would be a good idea to verify the converted value (what the stock ECU thinks it is) in DIAG mode, and re-set the span in the PC3. This ensures maximum range or resistance sweep from Idle to WOT.