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It sounds like you have a cover that is meant to be bolted to a plate that mounts behind the drive pulley. It should come with a plate that goes on the output shaft that the pulley bolts to. You should also have an outer chrome cover that has been cut away so that when the pulley spins the cover won't hit it. There is another cover that bolts to the stock pulley cover as described above and the bolts simply screw into the cover.
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Yes and no, they will work, however the 2006 wheels have one less bolt for the rotors than the stock 02-05 warrior discs have. You will need to find some five bolt rotors that are 298 mm in order to make it work. The other option is to get some R1 forks, brakes and rotors from a 2004? or newer R1. Those have the same number of bolts and will bolt right up.
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Check to make sure handlebars are excatly centered (outside of bar to the upper tree bracket) I had a little honda rebel that had a pull, bars were not centered, when it was corrected I loosened the trees upper and lower and holding the tire between my knees straightened it. If they are exactly centered you probably have a rear tire that is off center, check the tracking of the belt and adjust one side forward or aft until if is exactly right. Hope this helps.
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That's what I did last time, worked for me. They were happy to re-issue to loan at the current interest rate in order to keep the business.
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The Amsoil will work fine, I've been using it in my bike for 2 years.
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USMC, 1977 to 1999 I flew EA-6B's, Now I teach at the FRS in Whidbey Island. Semper Fi.
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Not a lot of Cams are aviable for the Warrior, you've got 3 choices, Orient Express, Partick Racing and the Speed Star. The Speed Star are probably the least agressive of the Bunch and Orient Express the most Agressive. I'd go with the Patrick Racing cams as they are a nice balance between HP and Torque. Expect about 5 hp increase unless you do some head work as well.
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Are you sure you are drainging the oil from the correct location? The drain plug is in the forward left corner of the engine and is I belived a 17mm plug. There is also a smaller drain plug on the bottom of the crankcase, but it doesn't actually drain more than a few ounces, as it is a oil pressure sensor port. You will also need to drain the 2+ quarts from the oil tank, again a 17mm plug, it is located on the right, behind the engine and kind of hidden up behind the pipes.
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A few things I'd check. First as mentioned above, tire balance, loose items such as motor mounts, bolts etc. Then I'd go for the spark plugs. Make sure they've both firing and not sooted up. That could be an indicaton of inproper fuel mixture or a fouled injector. If dirty replace the plugs and run a half can of Sea-foam through the bike with the next tank of gas. If the plugs are not an issue then I'd do a compression check.
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PCIII give you flexibility. You can bump the ECU, but it's a lot of trial and error to get it right-and each bike is different. With the PCIII you can get it dyno mapped for your exact configuration in about an hour and change it back with a stored map in minutes. But it is only the fuel map, if you want to change the ignition advance you need the Ignition module from Dynojet or the Speed* ECU.