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everything you guys are saying is basicly correct, but... snell and d.o.t. test are "pass/fail" the end consumer does not get to find out if a helmet passed with a C+ or A-. yes the biggest cost diff. do go into vents, straps, visors, liners, etc. to and value to the helmet. just as a ford to a bmw. if i get to go to deals gap next month (and boy do i want to) i will bring some paper work with me and any one who wants to read it is welcome to it. i hope this has not come across as argumentative,
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for the most part, you get what you pay for. in very low speed crashes, a plastic helmet will protect as well as a fiberglass. how many of you maniacs every ride at a very low speed??? plastic helmets reley on the "hard foam" liner alone to do the protection. while fiberglass lids the fiberglass starts to crush and spreads the impact over a larger area before the inner "hard foam" even begins to compress. this is a very edited way of telling all that a helmet does, but you guys are plenty smart enough
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guys, i live just north of greensboro. when and where are you going to ride? have not meet anyone form the forum yet.
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blubruce, sorry to hear about your local track closing down, not trying to rub it in but i have two diff tracks within 45 min.. three others within three hours drive. i have not made a single pass on ANY bike in over 10 years and am really starting to miss my old drag bike. i have several friends that have stayed with racing and are now moving up into the 4.90 bracket. i do not want to ever go that fast. i guess my fastest pass is around 6.20, and that is a fun pass without being to "over the top
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thanks for the help guys. i have a paint sceme in my head for later on and i will want the exhaust system blacked out, any ideas on turning a chrome pipe black? and will it stay looking nice? also seams from reading on the forum that it is somewhat split between the v&h pipes and the rinehart(bub), wonder which makes better "mid range" h.p.? and one last question on this for now, i understand the fuel map part of a PC III, but it does not raise the rev limit like the "yamaha" box does it? it that
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with all you know now and all the things you've tried, if you were to start all over trying to make your warrior run strong ET's and keep in a somewhat sane budget ($2000.00 or so) how would you set up a bone stock bike. i will be picking up my warrior in the next two weeks (got to finish the shed first). i will be riding this as my only street bike, but want to run it a couple times a month at several local dragstrips. any help with this would be great. be easy on me this is my first post
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