The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

This is almost the same as the others but not the same. When I turn off ( warrior 03) using the key and the bike in neutral

the light in back ground stays on.  It is draining the battery I had a volt metter on it and watched for an hour, Oh the batt

is new. I pulled the speedo first light off batt still draining, pulled the tack same, pulled the key switch still draining. I look

around volt metter still going down. I felt the brain and it is warmer the the pipes. Put ever thing back on the speedo it said

neutral when I turned the key on and bumped the start switch but did not start it. Turn key off light in speedo off volts started going

back up. Went down stairs and checked brain as I was writing this, its cooling down volts went from12.55 to 12.71.

 Oh dont have any LED light.

Joe,

I know you replaced the front end. Where did you move the ignition key? Who did the wiring? Did you try to recreate this event or just observed it once? You may have a floating short and thats just how you noticed it this time. I would take it ckt by ckt and go slow. If you rush you might miss something small and get very frustrated. I am assuming you have all the schematics as well. Maybe if you cannot get it and need a new set of eyes on it I can swing out there some time next week.

Aaron

joe,

read the stuff on "the click of death". i suspect that you disconnected your running lights either intentionally or unintentionally, or replaced them with led's. even if you are not clicking, the "glowing speedo" is the other symptom.

do a search on click of death, and you will see the fixes. either a resistor, a relay (why? because it works) or a small incandescent bulb into the running light (blue wire) circuit.

 dan

I see you changed your name but i haven't forgotten ..... Remember this?

AlanH:

lilmo:

Well i let it warm up!! and I'll do it again tomorrow. Do u know what ur talking about or r u just suxing somebody ass

idont mean to be an *** but i'am pissed off and i had a 12pack beer and I'am just thinking  why I should;nt I torch this ***

and start alover. look the the bike did it in the air it did it on the ground it did it off it did running same thing!!! give me something

to work with, warrior in distress sos sos help me .....

You have big cojones .... obvious larger than your brain i suspect.

• Shame on me once when i responded accurately to your Axle Question topic and you turned on me like a snake!
• Shame on me twice for my opinion and trying to help you out here after reading your earlier post that makes this one redundant!
• Yes, torch the bike as you probably don't have insurance and that will prevent you from screwing up another fine machine ....

• Fuse 69 - Decomp Solenoid
• Fuse 70 - ECU (electronic control unit)
• Fuse 71 - FI (fuel injection)

I suggest you follow bugei's recommendation or read this post: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/26883/387521.aspx#387521

BTW, an amp meter is used to test for battery drain although based on your volt readings i can see that the draw on the battery is now gone when the volts increased to 12.71 

IMO, based on your diagnosis and from where i'm sitting, you don't have a short. You need to add a small resistive load from the Blue running light wire to ground. This will eliminate the glowing speedo!

For testing purposes just plug in one of the OEM running lights or any incadesent bulb. The proof is in the pudding

Warrior Wiring Diagram: http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Warrior/Warrior%20Schematic.pdf

He correctly states he has no LED's but actually he has no incandescent signal bulbs either, and so nothing to drain residual electrical juice.  Interesting manifestation, and a good catch by Alan.  This will be helpful info for many over the coming years.   

To bugei I got bike with no lights. I only installed a head light, 3 from the light 4 from the bike or visversa.

I want to put L.E.D but have not yet. And to judge2008 no wires were cut exceped headlight wires If u look in gallery I

dont know if u can see it but wire hanging key switch speedo and tack disconected from male/female connetion.

this was not the first time it happen, It happen before I touched it I called the guy from NJ were I got the bike from and he said

dont use the kill switch it messes with the brain, kill it with the key. So I already knew this part but now it happen with the key

and in neutral. brain was hot, bumpped start switch in neutral all connected tack, speedo, keyswitch, killed with key back to norm.

What if I remove the decompression solonoid? Do i need it what does it do? Guy at yamaha dealer the shop manager

said u dont need it remove it. He said warrior is 1 of the worst bike to customize becuse of the problems but they look

bad ass if u do. What say you?

 I think it's already been stated but I'll go for massive redundancy. You are not drawing enough current. It's like the click of death without the clicking. If you wire in a small bulb in the line, the problem probably will disappear. You can put it in neutral and if it still glows when you turn itt off, go ahead and use the kill switch and see if it stops. I can't think of one single reason why the kill switch would affect the ECU. If I'm wrong about the kill switch affecting the ECU, somebody tell me as it makes no sense to me at all.

joe

i don't know why you are fighting this so hard. the issue is the same as the "click of death" issue that alanh and i have discussed and written about till there are no more letters on our keyboard. when the bike shuts down, it has some residual voltage in the decompression solonoid circuit. the bike was designed to drain off this residual through the running light circuit (no reason why, it just needs to bleed off the residual somewhere, and the running lights seemed as good a place as any) when the running lights are disconnected (as many of us have done) and there is no place for the residual to go, the decompression solonoid clicks and the gauges glow, again, the residual needs to be drained off, and these must be the easiest path, unfortunately, because the path is not a good one, the system never disconnects the power completely from the ignition and the battery gets drained. alanh and i have discussed this at GREAT length wearing our "geek hats", and in the end, the whys and why fors really dont matter. the fixes are simple; any ONE of these will work; the bottom line is that you need to create a path to ground through the running light circuit. obviously (hopefully), this cannot be a dead short, there fore it needs to be a resistive load. here are the known fixes off the top of my head

1) 1K ohm resistor (i used an aluminum cased 10 watt 1K ohm resistor, it works great on my bike)

2) a relay (alan used a relay, which he described somewhere in another post, it has worked great for him, just enough load to provide the path that is needed to ground)

3) some have used a small "dash light". personally, i am not a fan of hidden light bulbs burning in my bikes innards, but those that have done it have had no issues that i have heard of.

4) put back on the running lights

5) put an incandescent light ANYWHERE like in the air intake, license plate light, whatever.

everyone of these 1 through 5 is going to be wired from ANY of the running light circuit wires (light blue) to a black wire or ground. and the problem will go away.

this is a link to the most definitive discussion and solutions re: to this problem.

http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/26883/387521.aspx#387521

on another note, i would be looking for a new shop to take your bike. as you can tell from this site, there is probably no bike that has been as aggressivley modded as the warrrior. $hit, i can't even remember what they look like stock. you might want to show your shop manager this site at the very least, mine dealers shop manager is now hooked. the whole shop loves it when my warrior comes to visit. there are a ton of great people on this site who know all there is to know about these bikes, i don't think i have seen this level of detailed knowledge on any other site than the corral.net mustang site and steelsoldiers.com military vehicle site. on your post alone, i think i saw 4, maybe 3, degreed engineers responding.

 good luck

Thanks fellas for the imfo, I will put the running light back on its that I have none to put on. When I got the bike  it had none.  Signal and brake lights will be my next mods. again thanks for the help.                                                                                                                                   

In case nobody said it yet, don't remove the decompression solonoid, you need it to start the motor and plus its not your problem.

What they are saying is true and easy.  You know inside your headlight bucket where the oem front incandescent signals plugged in?  Thats the same place where the front running lights plugged it, the wires run together.  Just buy a $1 bulb socket at the auto parts store for an 1156 single filament bulb.  Sometimes you have to buy the bulb separately.  Plug it into one of the front running light sockets.  If it blinks with the signal its the wrong wire, use the one next to it.  Stick the bulb under your seat like a trunk light and then you can see under there at night.  You can even use a red colored 1156 bulb.  Don't put a switch on it. 

What they are saying is true, that simple fix will drain the excess elctricity when you turn off the motor.  Its that simple. 

Sometimes you can find a totally enclosed little incandescent bulb in an enclosed socket.  If its small enough you can even leave that inside the headlight bucket and it works for the same purpose.  Just be sure the bulb is enclosed so it doesn't melt the insulation off some wires in the headlight bucket. 

Its such an easy fix it seems impossible it will work, but it does and it is that simple.

joe:

What if I remove the decompression solonoid? Do i need it what does it do? Guy at yamaha dealer the shop manager

said u dont need it remove it. He said warrior is 1 of the worst bike to customize becuse of the problems but they look

bad ass if u do. What say you?

I had the same problem after I got rid of my front running lights. The dealer replaced my decompression solenoid for free. I never hooked up a light to the running light wire, but the speedo doesn't stay lit anymore and I haven't heard the clicking noise since. I stopped using the kill switch to turn the bike off, as well. The dealer told me it messes with the ECU. I found that hard to believe, since I've used the kill switch with no problems on every other bike I've had. I may try the socket and bulb solution mentioned above, as my bike cranks a bit before it actually turns over. That makes me wonder if I'm losing juice without knowing it. I ride every day, so maybe if it sat for a few days I would drain the battery....?