The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

I just completed this mod. I started Friday evening, tearing down the bars, taking them off and snaking the wiring through the bars. That part was relatively easy.  The second part, making the wiring extensions, was a lot more work but still not hard -- this was actually kind of fun as I don't get a lot of chances to do soldering and shrink wrapping. I love the finished look with using shrink wrap!

Dealing with the wiring harness on the bike and figuring out which colored wires went together was about 80% logical, wire colors matched for the most part but it finally came down to a few wires coming from the bar controls that had NO OBVIOUS matching wire in the harness.  I know I know... I TOTALLY should have taken a picture of the stock connections and/or labeled everything to make sure they got back together just right.  As it was, I got everything working except my high beams. I blew the signal fuse in the process but all is back together and the bars look much cleaner!

Thanks Redhorse for the pictures and instructions! They were VERY helpful.

Does anyone know if there is a fuse specific to the headlight high beam? Probably not, but I hate to think that two of the 17 wires are currently mixed up and I need to go through trial-and-error (and a lot of blown fuses) to figure out which ones. (although I put quick disconnects in-line with my extensions so this should make it a bit easier).

Notes for others attempting this mod:

1. TAKE A PICTURE OF THE STOCK BAR CONTROL/HARNESS CONNECTORS (or label every with 1-17 on each side).
2. I used quick connects between the bar control wires and the wire extensions to facilitate easier but-splices and allow me to quickly switch wires around if I get this screwed up. Just make sure to stagger the wire connections so not all the quick disconnects are together. This made it a little tough to fit through the braided hose (I think I used 1/4" on each side).
3. After cutting the braided hose, I heated the ends to slow the fraying. This did a great job as my first run-though ended us mangling the braided hose so much (with the pulling and the pushing) I had to start over.
4. There is a link on Radhorse's instruction for some Hitachi-style connectors. These are great! Get two sets though as I barely had enough with the number of ends I ended up mangling. I ended up replacing the entire stock connectors with these.
5. Make sure to run the left bar control wires behind the tach/headlight assemblies before reconnecting. I had to take them back off to get the lefthand wires to the right side for entry into the headlight assembly.
6. As I said above, I don't do a lot of soldering but I did learn the benefits of using good flux. With this stuff applied, the solder just gets sucked into the wire and doesn't bead on top.
7. Sears (as well as others) sells a good butane soldering iron. The top screws off and the unit acts as a great heat shring heater. It sells for about $10 but was well worth the expense!

I got my spring compressor in so the Baron 930 lb. spring and the KrankVent are the next mods on deck. I also expect my Short Slashers in next Tuesday so those will be on before too long as well.

Wish me luck!

ebrand:

Thanks Redhorse for the pictures and instructions! They were VERY helpful.

Any link to this?  I have the Bomber bars but my wires are still on the outside.  Previous owner said it was too difficult to get all the wires through the bars.  If I still have my bike this fall this is on my list of things to do.

I know, I know, search button is my friend.  Going off to search now... 

Here's a link to Redhorse's site. Great stuff!

Redhorse's Warrior Site

Just adding a note about changing out the rear spring. I recently fitted the Eibach 1000lb spring.

Didn't need a spring compressor, just used a few good quality cable ties to hold the spring as I took off the adjuster rings.

The Eibach is shorter in length so it's easy to get on without using a spring compressor.

The headlamp uses a 15-amp fuse and I think its next to the main 30-amp fuse but don't quote me.  There are 3 different 15-amp fuses plus a spare in the rack.  The green headlight lead wire, and the yellow high-beam lead wire, come from the same relay and share the same 15-amp fuse in the rack.  Maybe the relay got toasted on the high-beam side, or maybe the handlebar switch cover is pinching a wire.

ebrand:

Does anyone know if there is a fuse specific to the headlight high beam? Probably not, but I hate to think that two of the 17 wires are currently mixed up and I need to go through trial-and-error (and a lot of blown fuses) to figure out which ones. (although I put quick disconnects in-line with my extensions so this should make it a bit easier).

What size and length are those braided wire covers? I know you guys use the supply line for the faucet but wich one 3/8 or 1/2 Dia. / 16" long or longer/shorter?

Thx.

You need to match the max allowable diameter for your selected bars.  You need to get the length to match the pathway of your selected bars.  There's not much difference in price for longer, and it needs to be cut no matter what.  The diameter can be reduced in some handlebar designs by a tighter spot in the pathway generally at the bar/riser intersection.  Most guys pick their bars making sure they are drilled for internal wiring, and when they arrive they measure.  This avoids even problems due to a change at the factory.

Good luck...I am thinking POSITIVE thoughts for you brother.

Its a headache when vibration wears thru the wire insulation.  Remember to extra-protect the wires at least at the intersection of the risers and bars, and exit points.  That way you won't have to go thru it again in a year or two.

Since you guys are so helpfull I have a Question

Which model of Kuryakyn grips I should get:

KY-6240 or KY-6235

Did mine rear spring upgrade without compressing the spring before removal and no problem what-so-ever.

I ran internal wiring last year and took a lot of good advice from Redhorse.  I've been pleased with the result. 

I'm done with right side. Wasn't too bad. Before I stick the 6 wires

thru the bars I put some shrink tube around all of them, and then pull them thru.

Then I cut them and added 10" of extra wires, solder them and cover the soldered

connections with shrink tube. Then added that braided stuff to cover all of them.

With the left side I have planned to add extension wires first, than shrink tube all wires before I run them thru. Soldering wires in the air it's not easy . I'm glad I did cover those wires with that shrink tube, when whole bundle come out thru that bottom hole, I noticed some slight scrapes on shrink tube, so it means those tubes inside are very sharp. I used commercial stuff shrink tube so I should be good for long time. I have to say that right side looks awesome without that nasty gray tubing. Will keep you posted of my progress.

ps: whats up with those grips should I get them with the throttle body or without?

You can buy a separate plastic 'throttle rocker' and they work good.  Because I went with the Kuryakyn ISO grips I put on their throttle boss but my hand is sorta too wide.  I tried flipping it around - pointing the boss outward - for one ride but it was even less comfortable (DOH!) so I have it mounted to spec but it doesn't help a huge amount.  I also have the BrakeAway cruise control and between the two combined, it helps a bunch!

Nice work on the internal wiring can't wait to see the pics!