This post is somewhat of a part II to a
post I did from a while back. Some members have requested more detail
so I decided to finally post the changes I made including more details
on how I modified the stock motor mount and the custom bracket used to
mount the aftermarket coil/key bracket to the motor mount. Here is a
link to the older post on this topic: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/28541/391628.aspx#391628.
Since then I have switched to a different aftermarket coil/key mount, a
different key switch, added a start button, and collected dimensions
and pictures of the small bracket that mounts everything to the left
side motor mount. I also modified a stock motor mount for a close
friend and took pictures which shows how I did my own motor mount.
PARTS LIST:
1. The Gothic Spoke Coil Bracket from J & P Cycles online, part number 382-865, cost me $145.99
2. The Dyna Coils from Phat Performance Parts online, part number DC2-1, cost me $119.00
3. The Yellow 8mm Taylor Wires with 90 degree boots from J & P Cycles online, part number 381-125, cost me $20.99
4. The Yellow 8mm Taylor Wires with 135 degree boots from J & P Cycles online, part number 380-686, cost me $20.99
5. The Round Key Ignition Switch from J & P Cycles online, part number 3700021, cost me $21.99
6. The Pushbutton Start Switch I have no information on, lets just say it cost me about $15.00
7. The powder coating from a local guy who charges me no minimum fee cost me about $30.00
8. The custom angle bracket came from a steel scrap bin for me but lets say a maximum of $20 from your local hardware store.
9. The misc chrome hardware was probably around $25 from my local hardware store.
10. The price of labor, well it offsets to free if you reap the rewards of doing it all yourself I guess. 
TOTAL PARTS COST $418.96
Keep in mind that this nice chrome coil bracket comes in a version
that has no key or start button holes so if you just want to upgrade to
Dyna Coils without all the ignition key stuff and want the looks of
your coils on the left side this mod still applies. It also comes in
black if you prefer the blacked out look.
1. I started by cleaning up the stock motor mount in a media
blaster because it is going to be powder coated after the modification
anyway.
2. I then cut off all the extra brackets I will no longer be using
and drilled a couple large holes to give me an end point to the cutting
I will be doing.
3. There is probably an easier way to trim this steel but I chose to use a pneumatic cuttoff wheel.
4. I just marked off the excess I wanted to cut off and used the previously drilled large holes as the end of my cuts.
5. This is after I am finished cutting and have sanded down the cut edges.
6. I smoothed out the bottom. I did this modification to prepare
the motor mount for the new coil/key bracket and make more room for the
fuel injection line after relocating the FPR to under the top gas tank.
7. Ready to go out to powder coat for semi-gloss black.
8. I made a custom little bracket from a scrap of 2 x 2 x 3/16
angle iron. Here is the drawing of all the dimensions. I made this
bracket originally for the first coil/key bracket I used in the
previous post. The hole for the ignition key on the new coil/key
bracket is higher up so I had to mod this little bracket by milling out
the vertical face with a slot so it would not interfere with the
ignition key. If someone decides to use this drawing to make one, just
don't make the vertical face as long as I originally did and you won't
have to mill that section out. It will still have plenty of mounting
surface available and be plenty strong as it is made from mild steel.
Sorry for using a picture to show all the dimensions, best I can do at
the moment. Here is one using the flash and not using the flash,
hopefully between the 2 you can read all the numbers.
9. Here is the finished bracket before powder coating.
10. Here is the "Gothic Spoke Coil Bracket" I got from J & P Cycles online, part number 382-865.
11. Here is the round key style ignition switch I am using. It is
actually the first aftermarket ignition switch I used back from an
earlier mod shown in this previous post: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/28151.aspx?PageIndex=1.
I got it from J & P Cycles online, part number 3700021. It is a 2
wire single pole single throw switch. It actually has 3 positions, key
is inserted/removed in first position, second position does nothing but
retain the key from being removed, and the third position completes the
2 wire electrical circuit. I has been a while but I believe the neck
area of this ignition switch had to be filed down slightly to seat
properly in the mount but it was no big deal to accomodate. This
switch works great and I really like the looks of it as well. The
switch is wired to complete the circuit of the 2 main larger gauge
wires from the OEM key switch. In the Service Manual diagram they are
labeled R and Br/L which should be Red and Brown/Blue. There are 2
smaller guage wires from the OEM key switch that I permanently soldered
together and covered with heatshrink. In the Service Manual diagram
they are labeled L/Y and L/B which should be Blue/Yellow and
Blue/Black. I don't know the exact purpose of this circuit other than
maybe just an input to the ECU to let it know that the ignition key is
turned on. A relay could be used to complete this circuit when my
aftermarket key is turned on but I have had no problems with it
permanently soldered and it has been this way for 4 years now.
12. Pictures with ignition switch in place and custom mounting bracket in place.
13. Pictures with the start pushbutton switch in place. This is a
single pole single throw momentary pushbutton I use to start my
Warrior. I actually had this pushbutton from long ago so I don't have
any brand names or part numbers. Certain pushbutton switches must use
some common thread pitches/sizes because it threads directly into the
coil/key bracket with no problems. I just used the switches jam nut
and some blue locktite to hold it in place. It has solder tabs for
wire connections. The button you press is stainless steel and takes a
fair amount of physical pressure to activate. If anyone is interested
in using the same switch I am sure it will not be all that hard to
find. This small start switch can be used because it completes a
circuit to a relay instead of the starter directly so the current draw
is relatively small. You can see the coil/key bracket is designed to
house a much larger start switch for a different application probably
for a Harley Davidson. The 2 wires from this pushbutton start switch
parallel the handlebar start switch. In the Service Manual diagram
they are labeled L/W and B which should be Blue/White and Black. I did
this by tapping into the Black wire right before it goes into the ECU
under the seat and tapping into the Blue/White wire on the bottom side
of the relay cluster under the seat. If you trace the Blue/White wire
there is probably a much easier location to tap into it I just decided
to splice into it at the relay cluster because I already had it
accessible at the time. If you decide to do this mod be sure to use
some type of continuity tester to make sure you are tapping into the
correct wire.
14. Here is a picture of everything mounted up with the Dyna Coils
in place. The Dyna Coils are from Phat Performance and are part number
DC2-1. They have been lightly sand blasted, primed, and painted
black. The Dyna Coils are designed to be mounted in this bracket with
the outputs facing downward but I prefer the way it looks with them
facing upwards. To make this work I had to space them off the bracket
by using 4 1/4 x 1/8 inch thick chrome spacers and 4 chrome button head
1/4 - 20 x 1 inch bolts from the chrome hardware section at the local
hardware store. The +12v and ECU control (input) wires are wired to
these coils exactly as the OEM coils were wired. I used terminal lugs
and chrome button head bolts, can't remember what size they are
anymore. The 8mm plug wires are Taylor brand from J & P Cycles.
The 2 for the left plugs are a 90 degree boot and are part number
381-125. The 2 for the right plugs are a 135 degree boot and are part
number 380-686. The Taylor wires have to be cut to length and
terminated. I used the proper 7-8mm crimp tool from NAPA which made
the job very easy. These Taylor wires are designed to be snapped onto
a spark plug that has a terminal nut threaded onto the tip of the
plug. Our stock plugs do not have these so I bought some random spark
plugs that do, removed them, and threaded them onto our stock plugs.
The whole assembly is bolted to the motor mount using a 3/8 x 3/4 inch
grade 8 bolt inserted up from the bottom with a chrome 3/8 inch flat
washer and a 3/8 inch acorn nut on top. I used 2 chrome button head
1/4 - 20 x 3/4 inch bolts to mount the coil/key bracket to the custom
angle iron bracket. I used blue locktite on all hardware except for
the coil control (input) wires. For those who are curious about the
fuel line, it is 1/2 inch black racing fuel line with a CPC brand black
anodized 1/2 dry break and it works great. A special thanks to AlanH
for informing me that the CPC company started making the 1/2 inch size
dry break!
15. Just to make it look better, I took some OEM button head bolts
that are the same size and thread pitch as the original bolts that
mount the motor mount to the cylinder heads, had them chromed and used
them instead to mount to the cylinder heads. I have been riding with
this setup for over a year now with absolutely no problems.
