The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

So, it's June and I still haven't ridden my bike.     Last fall, while doing a smiley face burn out at Bo's Bash, I blew the second fuse from the top.  It's the one that includes, the tail light, turn signals, speedo and tach.

 Last fall I pulled everything apart behind the seat and installed a new stock tail light.  I had a custom integrated tail light for the last four years and not all the lights were working so, I thought I short my be in the light.  Well, I put the new light on, and installed some cheap led turn signals just to get by on.  Took it for a test ride and I was still popping the circuit.

When it blew the last time, I noticed it was when I was turning.  So then I assumed the short was in my internally wire radius bars.  I had them done about 4 years ago and I figured they had either chafed or pinched the wires somewhere.  I wanted to get some new bars anyway, so I ordered some Carlinin Super Sweepers and took the bike to my dealer.  My dealer has done a lot of work on my bike over the past 6 years and I trust the service manager (who does the work on my bike).  He installed and internally wired my new bars for me, caught me up on my recalls from last year and took it our for a test ride.  It didn't take long, and the fuse popped again.

That was almost two weeks ago and he still has the bike.  He can't seem to find a loose wire, bad connection or any other reason for my fuse shorting out.  After pulling his hair out with it for a while, He has been removing parts and trying to get it to short out just to rule out what it isn't. He called me Saturday and told me he would give it another go and then he might have to give up on it.  I'm not sure what I'm going to do, if my Yamaha service manager can't figure it out.  So I thought I'd ask if anyone else had any ideas, or similar problems.

I know diagnosing a complex electrical problem is most likely impossible over the internet, but I'm getting desparate.  I need to ride!!!

You are right its impossible but here's where my head would be at if it were me:

I'd ask myself how sure is it the problem is related to turning the handlebars.

I'd copy the wiring diagram and ID every circuit related to the fuse and mark them off as I visually inspect then test the wires.  Some can't be tested unless the bike is running. 90% chance there is a pinched wire (maybe even inside the signal switch housing).

I'd pull the signal flasher from under the seat and check those connections and wires, plus the plug between the signals and the ecu.

I'd unplug just the tail light and see if it still blows.

I'd unplug just the signals and see if it still blows.

I'd go to the trouble of disassembling the tach to inspect for burnt wires.

I'd do the same inside the speedo just because its on the circuit.

My bet is the problem is that a wire is crimped under a cover or etc. and it takes a little vibration to short to ground.  But if no damaged wires exist you'll have to look at any sensors that might be in-line with the circuit.

He has already checked my work on the back end and said it looks fine.  He is also certain that there is nothing shorting in the bars after he tore it apart and put it back together.  He thinks it might be in the dash and was going to try and remove it and see if it still burns the fuse.  

These are all good suggestions.  Keep them coming.  I am going to forward this topic to my service manager.

The problem may be deeper on your wire harness. The problem started when you shredded the tail light assembly during your burnout and what might have happened is you stretched the wire harness up near the front of the rear fender where it enters under the seat. You will have to strip the wiring harness and track it back from where the problem first started....at the tailight.

I never shredded the wires during the burn out.  The fuse popped during it, but the wires were fine when I took them apart.  The lights that were not working in the old tail light weren't working before the burnout, but the fuse was fine.  I did ask him how much a new harness was, he said $517  

I would still track it back...

 Checking the bars was a good place to start but since it happens when turning:

Suggest opening the main harness where it drapes along the right side of the neck & into the headlight bucket. For a fast check just try twisting the harness so it enters the headlight bucket differently.

When all else fails make up a jumper for the fuse box with spade connectors & a 12Vcircuit breaker the same amperage as the fuse or 5 amps higher. The system will come back on line when the breaker resets within a few seconds. This is probably the easiest fix until the problem gets worse & is easier to locate or just goes away.

Sangathor, 

 The dealer is going to charge you a million bucks to trace the short if you are paying him by the hour.  I live very close to you, (by the airport off of Grayton Rd.).  I have a small shop in my garage.  If you want to bring it over, we can through it on my lift and take a look at it.   I wouldn't charge anything.  I agree with the previous posts.  It can be found with a little patience.  

 PM me if you want to set something up.

Wow Kris that's a great offer, structured troubleshooting is a fine art and its darn nice of you to offer up your shop and your time.  I'll bet he takes you up on your kind offer, and I hope you let us know what you find.  The kicker is that with this kind of pesky phantom problem there could be two damaged areas of the same circuit wire so if its damaged wire insulation you just about have to check the whole wire which can be a pain even with meters. Do you like to methodically check off each branch circuit on a wiring diagram in case it helps find any trends?  IMO bring plenty of stock fuses since breakers might have a different fail point and may result in slower blowing (and embarrassing wire / sensor / component damage).  Good luck!

Arizona Warrior:

 Do you like to methodically check off each branch circuit on a wiring diagram in case it helps find any trends?

Yes.  I will usually look at everything on the problematic circuit and highlight the components on a wiring diagram.   I will look at the mod components first, then go from there.  Most of the time, it's caused by a mod that was performed on the bike (ie. internal handlebar wiring, custom lighting, gadgets, etc.). 

I hate to see guys donate big bucks to dealers for things that are relatively easy to fix.  They make plenty of money on the parts they sell us. 

Arizona Warrior:

 

You are right its impossible but here's where my head would be at if it were me:

I'd ask myself how sure is it the problem is related to turning the handlebars.

I'd copy the wiring diagram and ID every circuit related to the fuse and mark them off as I visually inspect then test the wires.  Some can't be tested unless the bike is running. 90% chance there is a pinched wire (maybe even inside the signal switch housing).

I'd pull the signal flasher from under the seat and check those connections and wires, plus the plug between the signals and the ecu.

I'd unplug just the tail light and see if it still blows.

I'd unplug just the signals and see if it still blows.

I'd go to the trouble of disassembling the tach to inspect for burnt wires.

I'd do the same inside the speedo just because its on the circuit.

My bet is the problem is that a wire is crimped under a cover or etc. and it takes a little vibration to short to ground.  But if no damaged wires exist you'll have to look at any sensors that might be in-line with the circuit.

 

+1        ,best way to find a short is to unplug components until it quits blowing the fuse and the isolate the wire that is shorting out using an ohmmeter, just remember to completely isolate the wire you are testing or you can read thru a component and it will give you a false reading.(belive me i've had my a$$ kicked a time or two by not isolating something when ohmtesting)

good luck --------keep us posted

swisswarrior:

+1        ,best way to find a short is to unplug components until it quits blowing the fuse and the isolate the wire that is shorting out using an ohmmeter, just remember to completely isolate the wire you are testing or you can read thru a component and it will give you a false reading.(belive me i've had my a$$ kicked a time or two by not isolating something when ohmtesting)

good luck --------keep us posted

Yep that's what he's doing.

Thanks for the offer Kris, I really appreciate it.  He's already had the bike a while and he's either about to find the problem or about to give up.  If it's the latter, I will definately take you up on it.

I didn't hear  from him today and I was to busy at work and then at home with a sick cat, that I didn't have a chance to call him.

Hopefully he got my email about checking out this thread.

Good luck Steve. You really only need to trace what's on that circuit. I'd bypass one thing at a time until I found what was blowing the fuse.  

+1 I totally agree.

kr1488:

Yes.  I will usually look at everything on the problematic circuit and highlight the components on a wiring diagram.   I will look at the mod components first, then go from there.  Most of the time, it's caused by a mod that was performed on the bike (ie. internal handlebar wiring, custom lighting, gadgets, etc.). 

I hate to see guys donate big bucks to dealers for things that are relatively easy to fix.  They make plenty of money on the parts they sell us.