How To's and General Maintenance Tips

How I fixed a clearance problem with aftermarket exhaust

Scorpo90 — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 01:02:17 GMT

I have Reinhart pipes and the lower one is lower than I though, taking a sharp turn it kissed the pavement resulting in a ugly scar. I'm not in the mood or financial possition for a new set of pipes, and the damage is low. But considering the fact that I bought this bike for it's turning capabilities, I know the pipes will get close to ground again. So I decided to fabricate a shield for the pipe, so that the shield gets wasted and not the more expensive pipe. After looking for aftermarked chromed covers, I settled with a Cobra pipe heat shield, it is thick enough, has flame shape ( makes it easier to custom attach to pipe) and it is chromed at $20.

Damage.

This is how I fixed it using the plate attached to pipe by drilling and threading the pipe (not he heat shield) using M4 metric hex bolts.

Because of the flash it looks nastier than it actually looks in person, the best thing is that if I turn low again and hit the pavement it will only cost me $20 to fix.

Here is a photo of the mounting area lookin from the wheel well area.

As you may perceive I flexed the flames of the plate so that they mate the inner pipe flush

This a photo of the bike at side stand angle view.

I'm still going to see if I can relocate the angle a little upwards to get more clearance, but at least I'm not too concerned when turning right and causing more damage to the pipes. Thank you.

Color Similar to Factory 0919 2007 Warrior

Scorpo90 — Sat, 26 Sep 2009 15:31:56 GMT

Duplicolor DSGM318 Charcoal Metalic, fairly similar good enough for small parts (E.g. Chin spoiler). See my photos.

General oil change / transfer case flush FAQ?

mlarivie — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 13:49:13 GMT

I just rolled to 600 miles and need to do basic maintenance such as flush the transfer case and engine oil. My quad was a dry sump setup but I had a service manual for it so I knew where to look. Can you guys post some general info about what the standard weight oil is for the engine, what weight is typically used, drain plug locations, fill capacity for engine and transfer case?

Can i flush the transfer case w/o pulling the exhaust?

Can a 2002 Warrior original exhaust be debaffled and valve clacking sound question?

Flying Frenchman — Fri, 14 Aug 2009 01:26:35 GMT

Hello,

I just picked up a beautiful used, low mileage 2002 Warrior today. My first time riding one and I love it. However, I would love to have a little more growl from that huge muffler. Does anyone know if this can be modified or debaffled without a major investment.

Also, when engaging first gear from a stopped position the engine "clacks" a bit for a second then is fine... like if the valves are off. I wonder if this is normal for this engine or if I should be worried and have it checked. Any comments/experience to share?

Many thanks!!!

Allan

AKA The Flying Frenchman :-)

ECU adjust (with pics)

DFW_Warrior — Mon, 26 Dec 2005 05:01:48 GMT

For all those that don't have the PCIII (all three of us) here is my little, simple way of adjusting the ECU. By the way, rswarrior.com, Yamaha Motorcycles, and I take no responsibility for you frying your ECU by following these instructions. Follow them at your own risk. I am not a professional mechanic, and I do NOT use really big words to describe the things I do. So if you have any questions feel free to ask away.

First pull off the seat, and little foam thing from under your seat and that will expose the ECU.

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Free up the little retaining strap from the ECU and then locate wire #27 and #29 in the harness. These two wires will come free from the bundle if you give them a little pull. Note: Don't try and pull them out of the harness itself, just the taped up bundle of wires! You will notice that wire 27 and 29 are actually just a loop wire that tells the ECU which mode to operate in. BTW, the wire will be yellow with a red stripe down it.
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Now for the fun stuff... First, don't remove the harness from the ECU. There is no need to and it really just slows things down. Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire in half and then install a pair insulated quick disconnects. I got a pack of them from Lowes for less than $2.

Next, make yourself a little jumper cable out of an alligator clip, piece of wire, and a matching quick disconnect to mate up to pin #29.
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Attach the jumper to pin #29 and then attach the alligator clip to some part of the frame. I use the helmet lock thingy (yep, technical term). Yes, pin #27 will have nothing plugged into it for this portion of the adjustment.
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Now you're ready to adjust the ECU. First hold both buttons on the tach down and then turn the key to "On". Continue to hold the buttons down until "DIAG" appears where the clock used to be. Now let go of both buttons.

Press Select and "Co" will appear and now hold both buttons again until "Co 01" appears. This is the air/fuel mix of the rear cylinder. Hold both buttons again and a number will appear in the lower LCD panel. Write this number down because this is your baseline that the machine was set at from the factory.

To adjust this number either press Select or Reset and the number will change. Select = larger number, which = richer. Reset = smaller number, which = leaner.

Once you have adjusted this to your liking press both buttons and you will return to the Cylinder select option, saying "Co 01". Now press the Reset button and "Co 01" will change to "Co 02". Hold both buttons down again and adjust the front cylinder the same way as the front. Don't forget to write down the number before you start so you can have a base line.

Now once you've done both cylinders, turn off the key and remove the jumper from the ECU. Reattach the quick connects, and make sure they aren't touching anything that could cause them to rub or short out and you'll be good to go.

BTW, I carry my jumper with me in my tool kit just because you never know when you might need it.

As far as how much do you adjust the ECU, you're on your own. All bikes are different, and with different mods people have vastly different settings. Try searching this wonderful site and there will be loads of information to pick from.

But here is one little tip on the popular "What number should I adjust to" question. There is no right or wrong answer for any given setup. A good rule of thumb is to just adjust each cylinder the same amount. How much depends on the altitude where you live, all the mods you've done, how clean your filters are, and many more factors. It's just going to have to be a trial and error type thing.

I hope this helps someone out a little.[]

Warrior Electric Starting System-Enhanced Schematic & More

AlanH — Fri, 04 Jul 2008 09:26:38 GMT

Taken from Chapter 7, page 23 of the early Yamaha Shop Manual and enhanced with additional critical components, wire color coding and detailed descriptors of the ballooned items.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/My%20Documents/Page%207-23_Warrior%20Starting%20System.pdf

Chapter 7, pages 23-27 - Troubleshooting the Specific Components-Hand to Hand Combat

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/My%20Documents/Chapter%207%20pgs%2023-27%20warrior_service_manual.pdf

Warrior Wiring Diagram w/Text Descriptors Added

AlanH — Sat, 15 Mar 2008 11:52:21 GMT

Current URL for Warrior Wiring Schematic (USA) w/Text Descriptors & Documentation located in my Bike Gallery:http://www.rswarrior.com/Gallery/AlanH.aspx

If the enclosed url doesn't load check for an updated version in my gallery  

Ballooned items are clearly identified on the schematic for easy reading & keyed to Cyl #'s and wire colors:

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Warrior/Warrior%20Schematic.pdf

Descriptors for Electrical Schematic:

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/1/1673654/Warrior/Warrior%20Schematic%20Key.pdf

Gauge size to inches

TECK — Tue, 21 Jul 2009 21:35:01 GMT

I had a tough time to find the proper measurements for metal sheets. I'm posting them here, in case someone else needs it.

8.5 gauge - 0.155 inch
9 gauge - 0.1483 inch
10.5 gauge - 0.128 inch
11 gauge - 0.1205 inch
12.5 gauge - 0.099 inch
14 gauge - 0.080 inch
16 gauge - 0.0625 inch
18 gauge - 0.0475 inch
20 gauge - 0.0348 inch
21 gauge - 0.0317 inch
23 gauge - 0.0258 inch
27 gauge - 0.0173 inch

Downloading the Owner's Manual from the Library

Bill Moore — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:40:08 GMT

I downloaded the 2002 Owner's Manual from the Library section last night. Now I am at work trying to print this and place it in a binder. My problem is, when it was setup in .pdf it had restrictions placed on it. It has been locked out of being printed. Anyone able to give me the password that is on the file so I can go in and remove the print block on it? I REALLY do not want to be working on my bike in my shop and have to run into the house to look something up in the owners manual.

LED Lights - Need some help.

jetrain9000 — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 02:10:13 GMT

Hello all,

I just hooked up some pod style LEDs on my bike all systems are go. Only one small issue. When riding the bike my RPM indicator is blinking.

Tach is still reading the proper RPMs and responds to the twist o' the wrist as per normal. No performance issues detected. Any ideas on why this is happening??

thanks!!

drain engine oil tank dry?

jlambes — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 02:41:39 GMT

Hey fella's I'm getting my warrior shipped and a requirement before it's shipped is to have the oil and fuel drained out completely. I ran the fuel out fine but when i drained both plugs of the oil tank I only got about 2 quarts. What am I missing??

Rear tire

Rick — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 10:44:08 GMT

Hi all whats the biggest rear tire i can put on a stock 02 warrior swingarm? Thanks

How to install a custom speedometer face.

ARMYSTAR — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 18:35:57 GMT

First get a new custom face from this sight. http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Images/Speedo/index.htm

Understand that in doing this mod myself and rswarrior.com take no responsibility in the outcome of what you do or mess up so attempt at your own risk.

1. Remove the headlight cover
2. Take the 2 allen head bolts that hold the speedometer onto the uper tripple trees off.
3. Inside the headlight are three connectors for the speedometer. One green, one blue, and one red. Disconect these
   connectors and pull them threw the rear of the headlight. Now the speedometer should be compleetly off of the bike.
4. Remove the 4 screws on the back of the speedometer allowing you to remone the outer cover. Next is the fun part.
5. The beauty/retaining ring that holds the front of the speedometer together will have to be cutt off. Dont get to
   excited yet. just cut carefully across the back of the ring where it has been folded around the housing.MAKE SHURE
   TO LEAVE TABS OR SECTIONS UNCUT AS YOU GO. These will be how you are going to reinstall the ring back on later. as
   shown in the pictures.

"
6. next once you have cut sections out of the back of the ring carefully bend the tabs that you left up so that the
ring can be removed.
7. Once the ring is removed the glass and ruber gasket should come out as well.
8. The speedometer needle can be carefully removed using a regular fork that you can find in your kitchen.

9. now there are 4 screws on the back of the iner housing that you just removed the ring and glass from that will
be removed so that you can get the speedometer out of the housing.
10.To get the speedometer face off you will remove the two outer screws on the face and very carefully use a razor
blade to cut threw the small amount ot glue on the back of it.I also used a zip tie just to push the blade threw. TAKE YOUR TIME ON THIS.

11.Disasembly is now complete.
12.I took advantage of this time to paint the beauty ring that goes over the speedo Blue and the iner housing that
is white is now balck as it will be seen slightly when reasembled.

REASEMBLY
1. This is easy just take the new speedometer face and insert it back into the housing and reinstall the two small
   screws that hold it in.
2. Next take the speedometer needle and slightly insert it in but not all the way yet. Spin itto the left till it
   stops. If it is not on 0 then take it out and reinsert it it all the way in directly at zero. I tested mine with a GPS when I was done to make shure it was on point and found that it was reading right on in town and 4 over on the highway. The same as befor I started.
3. Now place the speedometer back into the iner housing and reinstal the four screws that hold it in the back.
4. place the black metal cover and the glass back over the speedo face.(I cleaned the glass with rain x anti fog
   just incase any moisture were to get in it wont fog up on me.
5. put the top beauty ring back on and press slightly hard so that you can get the tabs all the way down and bend
   them back down so as to hold the ring on tight to get a good seal on the glass.
6. Now reinstal the outer housing and the four screws that hold it on from the back.
7. Reinstal the speedometer the same way you took it off of the bike and your done.
8. after i did the speed check to ensure that I got the needle back on correctly I took the outer housing back off
   and put a small layer of black silicone around the bottom of the part that was cutt off just to prevent
   moisture.

If you have any questions or need help on this mod feel free to PM me if needed.

Sorry I did not take pics on reasembly as the wife took the camera to a birthay party when I put it back together but you should be able to get it .

MC Salvage yards

jdm1200 — Mon, 02 Jun 2008 17:25:25 GMT

I got this off another sit and thought it might be helpful.

Steele's Motorcycle Salvage (25K inside & 3/4 acre outside, also new)
2025 W. Union Ave.
Englewood, CO. 80110
(303)781-5339
Web Site: www.steelescycle.com

Ron's Cycle Land Salvage (10K inside)
7120 E. Pine St.
Tulsa, OK. 74115
(918)835-8215
Web Site: www.tulsacycleauction.com
Auctioning 50's, 60's and 70's bikes 3/15/08

Cyclepro's Salvage (Large inside storage)
456 Dedford St.
bridgewater, MA 02324
(508)697-2611

Dirt Cycle Storage (Small)
Worcester, MA
(508)478-5700

California ATV (Small, specializing in Honda 250 R's but has all)
Pinon Hills, CA. 92372
(760)868-6260

R&R Cycle (Small, voice recording)
ME
(207)736-3043

Havasu Cycle Salvage (Small)
Havasu City, AZ. 86403
(800)680-6621

Boise Vintage Cycle (1/2 acre older metrics)
4735 Chinden Blvd.
Garden City, ID 83714
(208)375-7949

Sporty Specialties.......................(Sportster Parts)
1875-A West Commonwealth
Fullerton, CA. 92833
(714)879-0500 (Kirk)
Web Site: http://www.sportyspecialties.com/

Red Springs Motorcycle & Auto Salvage
400 Fm 16 East
Tyler, TX.
(903)858-2252

Midwest Motorcycle Salvage (aka Oz Cycle Salvage)
Ottowa, KS
(785)242-0600
email: ozcyclesalvage.com

Eastern Michigan Cycle Salvage (4 1/2 acres) including Harleys
7575S. Brockway
Yale, MI. 48097
(810)387-3513 (Mitch or Kevin)
Web Site: www.emccycle.com

Sharps Cycles (apx. 3 acres)
476 Renick Lane
Chillicothe, OH. 45601
(740)663-5010 (Joe Sharp)

Bike Salvage
www.eBayMotors.com

Used Bikes
www.liveDeal.com

EZ Repairable Salvage
www.rideSafely.com

Salvage Motorcycles For sale
www.SalvagebikesAuction.com

Recycling Motorcycle Parts
www.usedmotorcycleparts.com

Harley Fixer Uppers.....................(Harley Fans)
www.TheBidClub.com

A list of motorcycle salvage yards in the U.S.
http://www.moto-directory.com/salvage.asp

Strippers (Harley Salvage) "Cash For Your Crash"
Jackson, Michigan
(517)937-2147 (Jim 'Yogi' Yargeau)

Mauro's Cycle (Apx. 2 acres, 1,000 (?) Older, pre 95, Harleys & Metrics)
US Rt. 41
Inverness, FL. 34450
(352)726-8585 (John) "WE DO NOT SHIP"

Control Cable Inc. (562)949-0455 Custom cable lengths.

K&N (800)858-3333 (6:00-4:30 Pacific time) Cust. Supt. Dept.

Life Time Oil Filters, http://www.gopurepower.com/

Baffles, all sizes & shapes, http://www.bigcitythunder.com

'06 Belt Drive

comtnbkr — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:47:46 GMT

Ok....I nearly had a heart attack when I called my stealer yesterday to get a belt for my '06 RSW. $476???? WTF? I thought they were quoting me on a shaft drive? I've seen some posts here for the Gates kevlar reinforced belts for under $200. Is this still the best option versus the OEM belt? If not, someone please tell me what is because, if I have to drop almost $500 for a belt, I'm done with Yamaha.

Change Spark Plugs

02 warrior — Thu, 21 May 2009 23:55:45 GMT

I just joined and have never been apart of a forum, and was wondering if anybody knew how to change the spark plugs

oil change and oil types 02 warrior

twincamdeuce — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 19:15:25 GMT

I have a bottle of 4 stroke honda oil sj.It is rated jaso-ma also, just wondering if this will be a right oil for the bike since there are no yamaha dealers in my area.The honda guy sai it would be fine and work great, any help would be great . Thank you

Help with getting better fuel MPG

snowlover — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 01:53:58 GMT

PLEASE HELP.

Could anyne PLEASE help me.

I am looking for a map that will give me the best fuel milage. I put on the VBAK kit thinking I would get better fuel millage. Wrong! There is a streatch on are trip that is 130 miles between stations. I will not make it. I have an 03 warrior Sampaon ground pounders baffeled, AIS block off, VBAK air kit, We leave on Friday 06\12\09. Any Help would be greatly apprciated.

Thank you Dan snowlover4u2005@yahoo.com 612-685-6586

changing oil

Scott 2004 — Mon, 01 Jun 2009 18:44:41 GMT

got a stupid question when chaging the bike oil is there a easier way to drain the oil holding tank than to take one of the blocks feed lines off thanks

Newb with another newb question....

smashmup821 — Thu, 28 May 2009 02:51:49 GMT

Just turned 3000 miles for the season already, gonna do my first oil change. (sure you guys have heard this a *hitload of times before)

The pic on carknees "How to change oil" post don't show up, was wondering if the obvious bolt by the shock was the right one for the oil tank,(just like the owners manual shows). I've read that the manual was printed wrong, I downloaded the manual off this forum. I didnt want to drain my primary just yet. So if anyone can let me know if I've got the right bolt or has a pic it would be a great help. Any other things I should check out at 7000 miles? I was thinking of putting new plugs in but it runs like a top so idk...... Thanks

How to install new fork seals

Pep — Sat, 16 Jun 2007 16:20:27 GMT

***PLEASE NOTE THAT THE METHODS I'VE USED BELOW WORKED FOR ME BUT AREN'T NECESSARILY THE BEST OR EASIEST WAY TO DO THE JOB. I ACCEPT NO LIABILITY WHAT-SO-EVER IF YOU END UP DAMAGING YOUR MOTORCYCLE OR YOURSELF USING THE PROCEDURES LISTED BELOW.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

After learning a hard lesson last night trying to hurry through my fork seal replacement I finally finished it up. While doing it I had to make some tools. Now these may have been discussed before but I thought it might be useful to others who may want to tackle this maintenance proceedure. This can be done in less than 2 hours if you're prepared.
First of all, I had one seal leaking. The service manual breaks down the complete fork assembly, but since my bike only has 7000 miles on it I only wanted to replace the oil seals, dust seals, and gaskets (crush washers). These are the part numbers I used and I believe they are universal for all Warriors.
(2) 4EB-23144-00-00 Dust Seal
(2) 4EB-23145-01-00 Oil Seal
(2) 2K8-23158-L0-00 Gasket (Crush Washer)
The service manual is a great reference for this repair. It can be done without it but I believe you're better off with one.

1) First remove the front fork covers. These are the plastic guards positioned on the front of the fork at the very bottom.
2) Remove the fender.
3) Remove the brake calipers.
4) Remove the pinch bolt (screw) in the bottom of the right fork assembly. It's there to pinch the bottom of that assermbly and lock in the front axle.
5) Remove the axle and front wheel.
6) Loosen the upper bracket (triple tree) pinch bolts.
7) While holding onto the fork, loosen the lower bracket pinch bolts and slide the fork assembly out.
Now you need to break loose the lower tube assembly from the upper. In the bottom of the fork you will see a socket screw down deep in the assembly. It's better to have an air operated tool to break these loose, but I was able to do it on a piece of carpet with the tools shown below.

3/8 drive ratchet
10 mm socket (deep-well preferred)
10 mm Hex Key with the bend cut off
1 piece of Schedule 40 PVC 1-1/2" ID

You simply insert the hey key into the socket screw head, then the 10 mm socket on it and the attach the 3/8" drive ratchet. You can do the following in a vise as shown in the service manual or you can try what I was successful with.
Since I didn't have air tools to break loose the socket screw in the bottom of the assembly, I simply layed it on a piece of carpet, placed a rag over the bottom of the assembly, placed my foot on the bottom of the assembly (black section) to steady it and simply stepped down quickly with my other foot on the ratchet. It broke loose. If this fails take it to a shop where they can simply break it loose for you but don't remove the screw until you're ready to drain the oil.

9) Next remove the screw, keeping that end upright, and then turn upside down to drain it into an oil pan. You'll need to work the fork assembly up and down to pump out all the oil.
10) Slide the lower assembly complete out.
11) On the upper assembly with a very thin flat tipped screwdriver, pry the dust seal {cover} out.
12) Next remove the retainer clip with the screwdriver.
13) Now you can pry out the old oil seal being very careful not scratch the inner walls of the assembly. Note before you remove the seal notice that the number/lettering on the seal faces down in the assembly. This is where I had my difficulty by placing the new ones in upside down.
14) Remove the washer just below the seal and clean it.

Now reassembly begins. (I flushed my assemblies once with fresh fork oil once before I started reassembly and then wiped everything down with a clean cloth)
15) Reinstall washer
16) I used electrical tape on the end of my chrome fork tube to avoid damaging the dust seal or the oil seal when installed. You could also use a small sandwich bag.
17) Oil down the chrome fork tube and put white lithium grease on the inside of the new fork seal
18) Reinstall the washer.
19) Now slide the new fork seal on the tube. Make sure the side with number/letters goes on first. As you're sliding it on do it in a circular motion. This will help avoid damaging the seal. You will notice two holes in the chrome tube. Continue the circular motion as you move the seal down the tube and past the holes to the bottom.
20) Next with the dust seal and the oil seal located at the bottom of the chrome fork tube, insert the tube into the upper assembly. It will slide down so far and probably stop. Simply turn it and it will eventually drop down another step. Now there may be one more step to drop before the damper rod assembly is completely down to it's lowest position.
21) Now you're going to seat the seal with the special tool that the manual says you need. This is where your section of PVC comes in. Take your PVC and cut a section out of it so you can snap it onto your chrome fork tube. Once you've mastered that, remove it and grind a relief in one end on the ID. That way the PVC ID does not touch the fork tube as it contacts the seal. If you attempt to seat the oil seal with the PVC as it is, you'll damage the seal. You can grind this relief with a Dremel tool or a rounded file. You need to relieve about 1/4". There's photo below that shows the relief. Hopefully you can see it.

Snap it back on the tube and slide it down against the seal. Tap the PVC top edge with a rubber mallet a few times then slide the PVC around 180 degrees and repeat the tapping process. Remove the PVC.
22) Now reinstall the retainer clip.
23) Slide the dust seal down the tube and with the rubber mallet tap it lightly into place.
24) Next we're going to refill the tube with fork oil. You're going to need a funnel with a tube on the end of it to get the oil down into the hole at the bottom of the fork tube assembly. Extend the assembly until the two holes in the chrome fork tube are just above the dust seal. Snap the PVC back onto the chrome fork tube with the relieved end facing away from the dust seal. Locate it about 1/2" above the two holes in tube. Now slide the assembly back together until the holes disappear and the PVC contacts the dust seal. The PVC will prevent the fork assembly from moving while your putting in the oil. See photo below.

Place the funnel (with the tube end) in the bottom hole and slowly pour the oil into the assembly.
25) Next remove the PVC and slowly slide the chrome tube assembly back into the upper. It may bottom out prematurely but you'll be able to tell when you place the screw back into the bottom of the tube.
26) Place the screw (with new crush washer) in the bottom of the tube. Take the "cut off" 10 mm hex key and turn until the screw until it's finger tight. If the screw won't catch the threads the fork assembly isn't completely together. Simply rotate the chrome tube assembly until it drops down another inch or so. Once the screw is finger tight use the ratchet and socket to snug it up. You'll notice that you can only get it so tight before it starts moving. At this point you can use the vise again or the foot method I used above to snug it further. If you feel uncomfortable with this, take the assemblies to a shop and have them snug it up with an air tool.
26) Reassemble the bike in reverse order of disassembly.
27) Take a test ride to check the handling and make sure you have no leaks.
Hopefully this will take away some of the fear of replacing your fork seals. I should definitely save you some $$$$/

And as I stated eariler, I ACCEPT NO LIABILITY WHAT-SO-EVER IF YOU END UP DAMAGING YOUR MOTORCYCLE OR YOURSELF USING THE PROCEDURES LISTED ABOVE.

Codes

Lane — Tue, 26 May 2009 07:59:40 GMT

All i have is the owners manuel and it doesn't have anything about the codes in it. Can someone help me get the code book and what to do to show the error codes on my 2002 Warrior 1700 motor. Thank you for your help in the past with all my problems. I had purchased my bike used and received little info from the previous owner. Everyone has been great with patience and understanding.

Front tire change?

Red Warrior — Sat, 23 May 2009 16:26:37 GMT

New to the Warrior World just purchased a 2006 needs front tire changed!

took off deflectors and locking bolt but who has the huge hex wrench?

Over 17k miles maintenance

Vert — Mon, 11 May 2009 15:28:21 GMT

Just passed the 17k mile mark.

Up to now have done all maintenance myself, using this great forum and the experience of members (thanks).

The bike is running strong with no problems, but I'm wondering whether it makes sense to take it in at some point to have a mechanic give it a clean bill of health soon.

For you guys getting up there in miles.. have you ever taken your bike in for service just for a warm and fuzzy that all is well? Anything I should be particularly concerned about, or just keep biking and maintaining myself? I plan to get a new belt after this season.

check engine light help.

twincamdeuce — Sun, 03 May 2009 01:40:11 GMT

Does anyone know how to get codes to come up so that i know what to fix? I can't seem to get the codes to come up.Also would like to know how to clear codes.Thank you very much.