Installed Warrior Modifications and accessories

new bar end signals

working class choppers — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:22:38 GMT

check these out

super clean

super bright

front and rear lenses

Tinted tail light!!!!! updated pics

ARMYSTAR — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 03:09:56 GMT

Ok so a friend of mine got me a can of some paint called night shades by VHT that is only for tinting lights. Ordered it online. I was iffy but I must say that I am very pleased I got a few pics but it is dark out and ya. will get more tomarow in the day light but it looks great. I gave it about 3 coats of paint let it dry and then wet sanded it with 2000 grit and then waxed it. Looks like it was made that way and smooth as ever maby even smoother than stock.

New right side cover - $75 - Details on page 2

Dragstar — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 17:56:25 GMT

I have been working on a new right side cover off and on for a while now, and I finally have a prototype. The proto material is a one side textured ABS that I just had laying around, but I plan to build another one out of flame retardant ABS that will be smooth, and can be painted. There is an aluminum backing plate and a mesh "grill". I've ridden about 200 miles with the prototype and it is holding up great. The ABS will be thicker and stronger, so I don't expect to have any issues with it. I should be able to make more if anyone is interested.

Finally turbo is hanging! ..and r1 shocks installed

chris umber — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 18:25:21 GMT

Kinda excited.. this is the first legitimate post i feel comfortable posting in here! Its only been about 2 years but i finally got the manifold made and the turbo hanging on the bike. The shocks and brakes are from the first generation r1. I didnt feel like having any more forward lean than i already have to deal with. I also installed the barnett but i neglected to get a picture before i put the cover on. - you all know what they look like anyway!
I dont have a good picture of the turbo oil drain on here but i have installed a "T" into the oil tank inlet pipe as you can see in the second picture below.. Ive been deliberating the oil drainage situation. i will have to use a scavenge pump for the turbo drain in order to use this "T" that i have installed. I didnt stop to think with the level of the turbo and the drainage tube, it will fill before the oil tank does up on startup, which would be very bad. So for now if i cant afford a scavenge pump, ill just be welding a fitting onto one of the pushtod tubes. The FX monster's drain seemed to be a really good idea but i didnt want to be putting holes in the case.

Ill post some more pics as soon as i get that downpipe and exhaust situated!

Pics. of the front end and the turbo hanging.. if you check out the rest of my photobucket there are a couple dozen more shots of the manifold in its stages.
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/redlinefidelity9/?action=view&current=0224091715a.jpg (another pre adjustment pic)
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/redlinefidelity9/0224091716.jpg (notice the gap on the rear header... yea. This was before the "adjustment")
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/redlinefidelity9/0224091713a.jpg (finished product)

Samson Exhaust discount

Z-Warrior — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 21:35:39 GMT

I just went to the Samson website

http://www.samsonusa.com/

They are running their own "Cash for clunkers"

Cash For Klunkers!

Send Us your old set of pipes (any brand) and receive $100.00 OFF a brand New set of quality SAMSON EXHAUST SYSTEMS. Plus FREE SHIPPING for any system of $499.95 or more. Offer applies to all retail customers.

Call for Details not applicable with any other offer from SAMSON

Figured if anyone was looking at samson pipes might be a good time.

Good luck

-Z

$3 lever grip upgrade... yes, you can...

picaflor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:46:00 GMT

i was losing the fate that it will go thru that endball......

gps bracket (got bored)

gillthadevildog — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 16:13:58 GMT

im not good at making anything. i just got bored n said "what tha h*ll i'll give this a shot" so i made this gps bracket. tell me what you think. p.s. i am posting this with my phone so you have to go to the photobucket urls below

My Warrior redesign: step by step pictures

TECK — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 09:04:54 GMT

As some of you know, my Warrior modification process started.
The planned schedule is:

1. Complete electrical system restoration
2. 280 tire kit with custom fender (done by G&S Cycles)
3. Several cosmetical enhancements
4. Blue flames full paint job

I will post pictures with the work in progress. For now, you will have to enjoy how my Warrior looks stripped.

Tuesday, May 19 2009

The 280 kit and 2 blue lighted skulls are installed... the challenge was to make both skulls sit at the same height.
Carlini bars installed, as well the levers matching the forward controls.
Dyna coils installed to original location. No way to have them fitted onto the AkitaDog's plate...
LowandMean fairing scoop installed temporary, will be removed for painting.

Note: A little left of the electrical wires still shows for the vertical side plate...

Monday June 1st, 2009

Barnett SR-2 clutch conversion kit installed (red springs).

Friday July 31, 2009

Finally, the rear fender is finished. It matched the budget I fixed myself for it. Because it is a custom chopper shop, for sure it is not cheap. However, it is worth every penny to me. The attention to detail and how well the fender was fabricated is simply superb. Really happy with the final result.

Work in progress, note the precise measurements on each step. The Tricky Air Ride is lowered:

This is how the final fender looks, with the Tricky up:

Side view, with the Tricky lowered:

The final product with the Tricky up. I will ride my bike a lot lower then this:

The electrical wiring is well designed and the pointed tip is also reinforced.
A set of Radiantz LED strips will be fitted in the back as stop light, beside the blinkers who run as R/T/B:

Friday November 6, 2009

The gas tank was streched. I'm very happy with the end results (see large pictures):

The FatKatz 13gauge front fender is already in the shop, ready to be worked on.
It was custom cut to a 5.5" width to fit perfectly the stock Warrior tire (see large pictures):

The image you see below give the impression there is no space in between the fender and suspension arms.
Actually there is plenty of space, the camera angle made look like that:

TODO List
- Custom front fender to match the rear one in looks
- Custom seat to build
- Paint
- Handlebars internal wiring

ECU-Bump Toggle Switch with Safety Cover

Arizona Warrior — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 04:09:12 GMT

[updated 10-3-09 by ArizonaWarrior]

While messing around with the bike I added a Rhatphlegm-type toggle to switch between ECU-Bump mode and Riding-Mode. The Infamous Infidel Rat discussed his mod here: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/27511.aspx. The ECU-Bump was developed and documented by original forum members 'back in the day' however I used DFW_Warrior's write-up at http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/48956.aspx in conjunction with Rat's write-up to make this a breeze.

I added a longer black ground wire for extra room to nest the switch under the seat. I also added a nice quality spring-loaded aerospace-type toggle switch safety cover. This cover must be opened to switch into ECU-Bump mode. The cover must be closed to fit the switch back into the underseat wiring nest, and closing the cover resets the switch to riding-mode.

[updated 10-3-09] I swapped to an On-On Heavy Duty Toggle, 20-amp 125VAC, with spade connectors, and I found a thinner screw-on rubber lever cover that works with the safety cover. I wrapped the body of the toggle in self-vulcanizing rubber. Then I soldered-and-crimped the spade connectors and attached #29 wire to the center 'supply' terminal, #27 to the load terminal that is powered when the safety cover is closed, and a black ground wire to the load terminal that is powered when ECU-BUMP mode is selected. I grounded the black wire to the usual gounding screw that lives next to the oil filler tube. Finally, I wrapped the wires carefully, including the sharp edges of the safety cover's mount plate, ~~then I wrapped the switch area a second time using blue electrical identification tape.~~ [I did not use the blue tape this time].

For those new to this, if you want to do this mod, its handy to know that the 'wire numbers' are molded into the rim of the ECU plug where the wires enter (you have to look closely in good light at where the wires enter the ecu).

I routed the long ground wire so the switch would lay flat. The pic below is obviously riding-mode with the switch nested. [added: the blue tape no longer exists]

Everything fits nicely, and it tested perfect. Thanks to all the friendly forum members for the excellent info!

FINALLY GOT RIGHT HAND TURNS BACK

needawarrior — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 01:21:15 GMT

It's been so long since I've been able to take exits at 50mph. I know that a lot of people don't care for these pipes but I think they are awesome.I had the reinharts with bct baffles and they sounded awesome but they dragged everywhere and I lost a ton of power.These 2-2 big radius make some serious power and have all the clearance in the world. They are somewhat quiet compared to my old setup but its worth the trade off.

Finally finished my front, sides, and wiring project. Pics inside.

WICKED-INFIDEL — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 18:03:06 GMT

So I am now 99% done, I just need the neck inserts that cover the neck of the frame and hide my hole.I also need to find a better spot for the ignition.

Here are some pics.

DIY Integrated Tail Light

gran0310 — Tue, 12 May 2009 21:49:23 GMT

So I saw a post in the mods list for a DIY tail light, but when I looked it was complicated and the video was down. So I thought I would make one for cheap and post the how to.

To keep it simple, you can wire 2- 12 volt relays to your taillight to blink each side off. Each 1/2 of the stock taillight is 35 ohms, so if you turn one side off, you need to balence the circuit resistance to keep the voltage to each LED the same. Otherwise if you just split the thing in half, you will send too much voltage to each one and burn them out.

Materials:

    * 2- 12 volt 5 wire relays. I used DEI 525T relays that can be had at Best Buy for $10 each. These are 40 amp relays and are way too big for this project.If you can find smaller ones, use them. They need to have 1 normally open and 1 normally closed connection.
    * 2-35 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. Radio shack 271-1104 These are 33 ohm, close enough.- $1
    * 2 Small ring terminals - $1
    * Solder, heat shrink tube - $free I had this stuff already

Take your tail light off, and split it apart using a Dremel. Remove the LED assembly:

Next, wire up both relays.

RED> SOLDER, Connect to the positive of the blinker.(Brown is left, Green is Right - Coordinate with the YELLOW wire connection)

BLACK> SOLDER, Connect to ground on the blinker (black)

YELLOW> SOLDER For the RIGHT side, connect the yellow to the BLACK wire in the tail light that was screwed to the LED plate. For the LEFT side, connect the yellow wire from relay 2 to the WHITE wire that was connected to the LED plate.

BROWN> SOLDER one 33 ohm resistor to each brown wire. Loop the other end. The looped end will land under one of the screws that holds the LED plate in the assembly.

ORANGE> Crimp a ring terminal on each orange wire.

You will get something like this:

Cut a V shape in the middle of the LED plate and back plate to give yourself room for wires.

Here is a diagram of exactly how to connect each of the wires:

Here is what it looks like all put back together:

Connect your blinker and tail light connections back:

Test your blinkers. Then glue your tail light assembly back together and mount back on the bike. Trim all of the extra blinker brackets off and mount your license plate somewhere else.

All done!! I hope this helps someone else do the same mod.

65 Tooth Rear Pulley

Bladerunr — Sat, 26 May 2007 00:08:47 GMT

Finally, reached down for 6th at 80 and found it!
It's a 65 tooth pulley from a late model hardley, 35 bucks delivered. I had to ream out the bolt holes, easy. Also had to shorten the belt by two teeth, not so easy. I had to order a new belt anyway (picked up a piece of gravel, made a nice hole in my belt).

If you were thinking about the 33 front, consider a HD 65 rear. There are a ton of them on eBay, 20 - 500 bucks, depending on how fancy. It's easy to do and you get about twice the effect of the 33 front.

[] gps80mph -@- 2600rpm [] Don't even think about high gear 'till 60. 4th now goes past 100.
[Roadie 5th gear, Roadie 33t front, HD 65t rear, Gates 128t x 1 1/8"]

240 rear, lowered, chopped fender,

madmax1700 — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:09:06 GMT

I am just getting my first warrior (2007).
I need a lot of advice as I would like to modify this thing right away.
Looking to do a 240 rear tire, lowered, chop the fender, relocate lights-plate-etc. I want to retain as much handling as possible.
I just gave up road racing and I really like the corners, but love the fat tire muscle bike look.
Where do I start?
Who is a good source of custom short rear fenders? I've seen them on pics.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Duece backrest and "custom" side covers

ZZR12 — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 01:50:47 GMT

" width="1" height="1" />I added a Duece backrest, had it powdercoated black, and finally added ny "custom" side covers. You may say what makes them custom, well I had a place cut the shape out of 1/8 inch steel, welded brackets on the back then had them powdercoated black.

Rear fender pics

RF_WIZ — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 02:06:43 GMT

Would any of you guys with custom rear fenders mind posting pics of it along with the palce you bought them. Planning my winter mods.

Thanks,

Carmine

(COMPLETED!!! 9-27-09)Baclay9's Front end clean-up

baclay9 — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:08:28 GMT

Well, Wyomingwarrior's build inspired me to get off my lazy @ss and get started on my front end clean up. Figured I have got a couple of weeks before I get my hand controls back from chrome. I got as far as I could today. I am going to have to get some aluminum to fab some parts up to get any further. I tore my tach apart today and got everything cleaned off the front end. Figured I would go ahead and start a build thread and just update it as I go. I included a couple of pics of me holding the headlight up where it is going to go, what do you think?

Here is what is inside the tach housing.

By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-09-13

Here I am cutting the housing the tach electronics sit in to make it smaller so it will fit under the seat. The electronic board bolts to this piece from the back and then the assembly bolts to the faceplate that protects the tach face. I wanted to keep this protective cover on there so the tach couldn't get scratched I have plans for it in the future. I did need part of the housing to keep the tach centered in the faceplate. That is why I am cutting off the unneccessary parts.

By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-09-13

Past the point of no return. This is the peice after cutting it in half. The part on the right is the peice I will be re-using to center the tach in the faceplate housing.

By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-09-13

I put it the tach back in the partial housing, wrapped it in bubble wrap and taped it up with electrical tape. Then I stuck it where the tool bag was under the seat.

Here are some pics of where the headlight will be. I will start fabbing a bracket up this week. The headlight is a 5 3/4 light. What do you think?

By claypool782, shot with DSC-T300 at 2009-09-13

I will post more pics of the tach relocation as I continue with it. More to come!

single side swing arm custom build

THeBull — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 22:39:51 GMT

Thought I should move my post to the modifications forum since it has gone from idea to actual

http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/129963.aspx

pic of the pivot tube and swing arm joint. Hold the comments on the welding, this is my first time ever welding.

pic of the adjustable wheel hub for tensioning the chain

fork top spikes

working class choppers — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:35:36 GMT

had these mocked up for a few months now

finally had time to finish them up

so i took a set of spikes from the shelf and made them fit the tops of the fork tubes

chrome spikes good

my mods.

Gazoo — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:56:04 GMT

I bought my bike from Ed (getsomebaby) who you all know did a sh$$t load of mods to the bike. My question is, how mant mods do I need to do so I am not conciddered taking credit for his work? I don't want to throw my bike out there with all these mods and have people thinking I am taking credit for all Ed's hard work. Or... have I just been on too many other forums that are petty and stupid and I do't need to sweat it?

modified front pulley cover

working class choppers — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 14:29:29 GMT

i thought about going naked on the pulley cover

so i started taking things apart and looking around at what i had in the shop

i decided to paint the stock outer cover

i cut a piece of red transparent plexi glass for the center

covered it with a drilled disc of aluminum

and i backlit it with a red led strip

diamond plate frame inserts

working class choppers — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 21:22:36 GMT

made these this afternoon

Air Horn, Stebel Nautilus

maskale — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 05:08:24 GMT

We all know the horns are just about worthless so I went to Orilley's and bought the air horn and the Fiamm high and low tone freeway blasters, could have bought them online for a little less but I paid around 90 for everything. I had the intentions of testing all the horns and deciding which one I liked best and returning the others. I ended up keeping them all. I installed the air horn in the right filter housing, and installed the low tone freeway blaster in the stock location at the right footpeg.

For the air horn I pulled the wires from the left horn and used them to switch the relay. It was a real pain pulling those factory wires and they did end up being about 6 inches short of reaching the relay, I could have moved the relay or untaped more of the main harnes to get more slack but I just added more wire. I did cut a hole in the bottom front of the 'coffin' so more sound could get out. It is only mounted with one bolt through the plastic, hope it holds, even if it dont the horn cant fall out. The instructions say that the air horn has to be mounted vertical, but I can't see why it would need to other than to keep trash out of the horn. I mounted it horizonal and it works fine, I will see how long it last like that if there is some special reason it has to be vertical. I tried looking for the manifature website so I could email and ask but did not turn up a site.

The low tone freeway blaster screwed right into one of the holes that the factory bracket was bolted to, so no need for making a bracket. I used the same wires to run the freeway blaster, my guess is that since only that one horn is running on the system there should be plenty of power for it since the relay does not really use any.

I will see about mounting the other freeway blaster on the left foot peg just like the right, but that will require me to make a bracket and install another relay and then I will just run both blasters off that one relay. The one air horn is plenty loud, but hey why not have all of them running. :)

Memphis Shades Big Shot w/ RoadStar Brackets

bucky685 — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 01:57:05 GMT

Through my searching I found AlanH posting about using the RoadStar Brackets instead of the Warrior brackets. It raises the windshield a extra 2" and about 2-3' backward.

It is allot smoother ride. The air comes just to the top of my helmet.

I am 6'3" with a 32" inseam.

The alley cat windshield i had on before looked better but this one functions a hell of allot better! It should serve its purpose on my trip to canada! 2000 miles in 5 days!

Check out the pictures:

Looking straight forward. I look just above the winshield:

New to me exhaust..What do you think? Updated Heat Wrap

Z-Warrior — Fri, 28 Aug 2009 03:02:06 GMT

******* Check the october 10th Post *******

From the classifieds here I purchased a set of used Samson Shortie slashers.

They had the crap kicked out of them. Scratched, rust, and even a nice little surprise dent. But they were cheap.

I sanded the crap out of them, and used the 3 part VHT paint system. High temp primer, paint,then satin clearcoat. It came out pretty good besides one dang heatshield. I will sand and repaint that one at another time. I used the same paint on my old DIY exhaust in my gallery. It was really quite durable. Only time will tell. If the paint goes to crap then I will be ceramic coating them or taking the easy out and black exhaust heat wrap them. I will say they sound sweet! Loud and Proud. They do backfire and pop like crazy on decel. And they barks like a dog crappin thumb tacks on the quick acceleration. Even with the AIS blockoff but what can you do beside get a PCIII and map it to make it better. Not get rid of the popping, just reduce it....

I realize looking at these pics the pipe don't seem parallel but they are. Weird camera angle I am thinking. Oh yeah and anyone else notice almost all pictures taken of indigo warriors turn out cobalt blue? I think about 10% of the photo of my bike actually look indigo.