The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

HELP [:I]
From all the threads I've found & reading I've done, it looks like this topic has been run into the ground, but I haven't come across MY particular situation...
I have the AIS blocked & have relocated my sensors with a DIY (BSR style) relocating plate.
From all the responses above I think I feel alright connecting directly to the nipple that is blocked off from removing the AIS on the left side, but on the right side I no longer have a "T."

My questions:
Regarding the right side - is the "T" inline between the throttle body and the AP sensor?
Also, since I no longer have this T, am I going to need to put one back in line so I can keep the AP sensor hooded up while I do the sync, or can I just unhook the AP sensor line from the throttle body while I attach the manometer tube directly to the right side throttle body nipple?

[]Thanks in advance for the help! []

Leave the manifolt pressure sensors hooked up. If they are left open to the atmosphere the ECU reads a zero vaccuum situation.

If you have removed the original pipeing use a pair of tee's & some short pieces of vacuum hose & install them in the manifold pressure vacuum lines. Sync the throttle bodies then remove your tee's.

I like to sync the throttle bodies at 2500 rpm.

Pressure (vacuum is pressure less than atmospheric) is exerted equally in all dirctions regardless of shape of the vessel. Length of tube makes no difference except the longer the tube the less fluctuation.

I had done this , but i had adjusted the left side first, when i should have left it as the base messurement...

So what i had done was adjust both until i got max vac on both cyls, it did smooth it out a lot..

 

I am still wondering now that i had done an adjustment to both set screws..

Will it be a problem later down the road?

 

 

thanks

You are on the right track.  Here's the baseline in case helpful.  Yes the #1 throttle body is used as the baseline, however it needs to be in spec in the first place.  One tip, be sure your air filters are clean. 

Your end result is what is important.  The vacuum at warm idle (850-950rpm) should be 50kPa (375 mm Hg,  14.8 in Hg).  The difference between the two should not be more than 1.33 kPa (10 mm Hg,  0.4 in Hg).  Remember to rev the engine for about 1 second between every adjustment to clear and re-establish vacuum readings.

Remember to adjust the AIR SCREW (not the throttle valve screw).

The service manual page 3-15 shows the best vacuum connection points for each throttle body.  If you don't have one, see the link at the top of your screen for Downloads.  Its the 2002 manual however everything is the same '02-'08 for this.

Have fun!

blackbolt:

I had done this , but i had adjusted the left side first, when i should have left it as the base messurement...

So what i had done was adjust both until i got max vac on both cyls, it did smooth it out a lot..

 

I am still wondering now that i had done an adjustment to both set screws..

Will it be a problem later down the road?

 

 

thanks