Radius Bar Installation Procedure
By: DarkStar
Material List:
1) Radius Bar with all mounting hardware provided by Baron‘s.
2) 2 extra large stainless washer#%92s, 1-1/4”
3) 100-Watt Trigger Solder Gun & Rosin-Core Solder .032 diameter. (Radio Shack)
4) 16-18 gauge electrical wire, to extend control line#%92s. I purchased a package with red, green and black wire colors. (Radio Shack)
5) Black Conduit Wire Wrap 3/8 inch diameter, sold at local HD Shop in 10-foot section, which is plenty.
6) Electrical Tape.
7) Wire Stripper#%92s.
Dremel with cutting blades.
9) Vacuum Device (vacuum cleaner or some sort of suction device) I used the household vacuum cleaner.
10) Sewing Thread & light action fishing line.
**Advice to all. ** This is not a 2-hour job. This is an all day project that requires a ton of patience. I ended up making it a weekend project.
Stage 1 - Disassembly of Stock Handlebars.
**Cover Gas Tank, with Large Thick Towel or two** This will protect from dinging tank with tools and handlebars.
1) Strip handlebars of grips, mirrors, control housings etc. I just let everything either hang or lay across my tank on the towels.
2) Remove stock handlebars & stock handlebar mounts/holders.
3) Remove the wire guide under triple tree. You have two choices. A) Remove entire steering head then remove wire guide in one piece or B) take the easy way out, which I did and Dremel (cut) the wire guide and discard in many pieces in trashcan. *The wire guide can be drilled to accommodate the thicker bolts, but it is way easier to just remove and trash! *
*At this point I would disconnect control line#%92s, (which will need to be lengthened) from plug-ins inside the headlight assembly. You will have to open up the headlight in order to do this. *
4) Remove Tachometer & Headlight and push out of the way. I rested it on the front fender on top of a nice thick towel.
Stage 2 - Internal Wiring Procedure
*Patience is Key to Success*
1) Re-install clutch lever/mirror mounting bracket (without mirror & clutch lever attached). **This is very important to do. ** The hole on this side of the Rad#%92 Bars (clutch side) exits after the mounting bracket. You will not be able to slide the mounting bracket over the wires once they are run internally.
2) Locate the 4-holes used to run the control lines internally. Working with 2-holes at a time (that the control lines will run internally through), use masking tape to close all other holes i.e., bar ends, the other 2-holes that run internal control lines and at the bottom of the riser#%92s are bolt holes, tape those too.
3) Now, get the vacuum. Take as much sewing thread as you can stuff into one of the internal wiring holes and suck the thread through the Rad#%92 Bars, once you accomplish this, tie on some fishing line pull that through the bars, then you want to take enough of the wire you bought at Radio Shack and cut 3-30” length sections, one for each side, (put the third line aside for usage later) attach 1-line to the fishing line and pull the wire through the Rad#%92 Bars. Tie on Rad#%92 Bar, so you do not lose wire back inside of the Rad Bars.
4) Repeat Step 3 on throttle side.
5) The throttle side will be the first side to run wires internally. This side is easier, less wires.
6) Now, you will have to cut the control lines. What I did was cut above the headlight plug in about 2”-3” I left enough of the wire attached to the headlight plug in to make it easy to work with when soldering back together. You will notice all the wires are color coded, so pay attention when you solder/splice in the extensions.
7) Remount throttle side control housing on Rad Bar, leaving enough room to work with running wires internally. You will be working from the top hole nearest control housing, working from top to bottom.
This is where that 3rd 30” wire length comes in. You will twist tie 1 control wire to one end of the wire you have already run internally. Then lower on the wire you will twist tie the 3rd 30” wire. The sole purpose of this wire is to replace the 1st wire you ran internally, so you will always have a pull wire internally to finish pulling the rest of the control lines through the Rad#%92 Bars. *P.S. Special Thank-you to Boogieman on the tip!*
9) After you have got 2 control wires run internally get enough length of the Conduit Wire Wrap to run internally to protect the control lines. Take that length of conduit and push through bars from the bottom, using the wires you already have run internally, as it#%92s guide. You will be surprised how easily it slides through. I used a little vegetable oil on the outside of the conduit to help with this procedure. It works! **You will repeat this procedure for the clutch side**
10) Finish running the rest of the control lines through Rad#%92 Bars. Once all control lines are run internally, tape off control lines to the outside of bar.
Stage 3 - Solder Extension#%92s (this will cover both sides of Rad#%92 Bars internal wiring)
*Stage 3 - Consist of soldering & splicing the Extensions on the Stock Control Lines. *
1) Cut 5 pieces of the 16 gauge electrical wire extensions 6”-8” in length for the throttle side and 11 piece's of wire extensions of 8”-10” in length for the clutch side.
2) Starting with the throttle side, solder a 6”-8” extension to each control wire at the point where the control wires exit the Rad#%92 Bars. Once you solder the ends together you will want to individually wrap each solder point with minimal electrical tape to cover all exposed wire and soldering.
3) Once the soldering and individual electrical taping is complete you will want to wrap all wires (where you soldered) with electrical tape as tight as possible.
4) Get another length of Conduit Wire Wrap, enough to cover up extension lines to the exit hole of the Rad#%92 Bars, but leave enough room to work/solder the other end of the extensions to the headlight plug in.
5) All the stock control lines are color-coded. Make sure before you solder the ends of the extension wires to the headlight plug in end (the end that plugs into the headlight assembly) that the correct colors are connected. I cannot preach enough to you how important it is to double check, triple check to make sure the correct colored wires are being soldered together.
6) Solder the extensions to the headlight plug in end and follow the steps above in section 2 & 3 to protect the soldering and exposed wires.
7) Wrap up the open ends of the Conduit Wire Wrap with electrical tape.
**Throttle Side is Complete**
Stage 4 - Internal Wiring - Clutch Side.
1) The clutch side will be done exactly in the same procedure as the throttle side. The difference between both sides will be the amount of wires that run internally. 11 wires run internal on the clutch side vs. 5 internal wires for the throttle side.
2) **DO NOT FORGET** to mount the clutch lever/mirror mounting bracket prior to starting the internal wiring of the clutch side.
Stage 5 - Mounting Radius Bars -
1) Put the extra stainless washer#%92s between the Rad#%92 Bars and rubber dampeners where the Rad#%92 Bars sit when being mounted on the steering head on top of the triple tree.
2) Put the locking washer#%92s on the bolt#%92s that were provided by Baron#%92s with the Radius Bars. Run the bolts up under and through the triple tree and hand tighten both bolts to the Rad#%92 Bars.
3) It is *IMPORTANT* not to over tighten the Rad#%92 Bars to the steering head. You do not want to compress the rubber vibration dampeners with to much torque. * The Spec#%92s for handlebar torque is 29 ft. lbs.*
4) Reinstall all grips, mirror#%92s etc.
I have reread these instruction#%92s several time#%92s. I hope they are accurate and detailed enough for everyone to help when installing the Baron#%92s Radius Bars. If anyone need#%92s assistance or has question#%92s please feel free to email me at elalone9@comcast.net I am more than happy to help.
Good Luck!
DarkStar