The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

CPS Recall & Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion SR-2 Rev A with Std Gold Springs & M6 x Gr 10.9 zinc plated screws. Photos of install here with notes:http://www.flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157603408125806/detail/

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Rev A Groove for basket machined to 6.6mm (0.260") or an additional 0.75mm (0.030")

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Copy of e-mail correspondence to Barnett in desending order

----- Original Message -----
From: Alan
To: Mike Taylor
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: SR-2 Specs, Re. your email of 11/27/2007

Mike,
You exceeded my expectations in every which way.....Thank you very much. Part received today!

Regards
Alan

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Taylor
To: Alan
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: SR-2 Specs, Re. your email of 11/27/2007

Alan, just send it back with a copy of this email and we'll take care of it promptly. Address below is correct. Mike Taylor

----- Original Message -----
From: Alan
To: Mike Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: SR-2 Specs, Re. your email of 11/27/2007

Mike,
Thank you very much for your quick response and very detailed explanation of the SR-2 clutch spring conversion kit.

I appreciate the time you've taken to explain the senario that exists with the Roadstar Warrior.

As stated in my earlier e-mail the package i received from Jireh Cycles is date stamped 04/17/07 before the new program!

What procedure is required to return the part for re-machining? ...... RGA No? ....Just mail back the new pressure plate only with this correspondence? Anyones attention? To 2238 Palma Dr Ventura, CA 93003

Respectfully

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Taylor
To: arh6063@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: SR-2 Specs, Re. your email of 11/27/2007

Allen,

First of all, I want to set the record straight on our original #SR-2 pressure plate conversion.

There was no flaw in the design or production of the original #SR-2 pressure plate. It was made to the exact same measurements as the OEM Yamaha pressure plate. The machined depth, where it fits down over the hub is approximately 5.8mm on the stock pressure plate as well as our original version of the #SR-2.

As a result of Oliver's post dated in April of this year, we saw a way to eliminate the need to remove and machine the hub, thus getting a bit more life out of the clutch plates. Starting on April 18, 2007, we re-worked the CNC program to deepen this area an extra 0.75mm. This accomplished the same effect as machining the hub, saving you, the consumer, the time and cost of that extra work. This was done without altering the structural integrity of the part.

By doing this, it is perceived that there was a design problem with the part to start with. If you will simply compare our original part with the OEM part, you will see they were same. No good deed goes un-punished.

Any SR-2 that was packaged on 4/18/07 or later is of the new design. The new depth is 6.6mm. If you or any user of this part has an early style part, you can return it to us and we will re-machine it to current specs.

A not of caution....as the clutch pack wears down less than factory specs, the pre-load on the clutch springs will decrease.
This applies to any of the three types of springs being used with the #SR-2. Also, the green and red springs are much stronger than the stock single spring, so always do a thorough visual inspection for wear and stress damage when servicing the clutch.

Feel free to share this with fellow Yamaha riders, websites or chat rooms.

Mike Taylor
Barnett Tool & Eng.

----- Original Message -----
From: Alan
To: clutchdept@barnettclutches.com
Cc: info@barnettclutches.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 4:51 PM
Subject: SR-2 Clutch Spring Conversion for '04' Yamaha Warrior

Attn: Technical Support

Yesterday, Monday, i spoke to Pat regarding an issue with the Barnett SR-2 kit dated 04/17/07 that i purchased from Jireh Cycles last week in good faith.

Pat of Barnett, assured me that this kit had addressed the issue in the following attachment from the RSWarrior.com forum yet this correspondence contradicts my phone conversation with him:

http://rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53592
barnett spring plate "UPDATE" by dendelion
Posted - 06/04/2007 : 3:17:19 PM
After reading Oliver's post and already having my SR-2 ready for install, I thought I would call Barnett and see what they had to say.
Xavier at Barnett tech support asked me to send him Oliver's post. That was done and I guess they agreed with Oliver's findings because he told me they are making a revision to the SR-2 and it will be ready for delivery within the next few days. I told him to contact Phats to make sure he gets the "New Rev" to any Warrior customer that may want to do this Mod. According to Xavier, this new rev will end the need to have the Clutch Boss machined. If you order the SR-2 make sure you check to see that the REV date is 6/xx/07 or later.
Hope this helps. Thanks Oliver!!

It appears that i have received an earlier kit that will create a premature slipping problem and was mis-informed by Pat that it was ok!

Please advise what course of action i can take to receive the proper part so that i will do the job but once!

Respectfully,
Alan

Great pix with your Nikon camera Alan.I like the slideshow option.I'll be doing this conversion some day & as usual you make it easier.

THANK you Alan, very good info, i to will be installing CPS, and the Barnett clutch spring conversion, probley use the GREEN springs,

Outsatanding write up and great photo doc of the change over.

Thanks Alan!

More Thanks Alan. I have a new SR-2 Rev A set-up ready to go in. I have never done a motorcycle clutch before but after looking at your pics, I' ready to go!! Thanks again!![]

Interesting....
I installed one of these 4-5 years ago with Barnetts carbon plates and had slippage issues right away. I ended up re-installing the stock pressure plate and speedstar diaphragm because it didn't slip. I was sure it was a stack height problem with the carbon plates, although that's not entirely untrue this revision might have given me the clearance I needed when I first installed it. Go figure!
Looks like they will take it back too!
Hmmmm....

Good info! Too bad, my clutch boss is already machined....

JPWARRIOR.... if i'm not mistaken there was a post recently by a Barnett Tech on our site that addressed an issue regarding the proper part numbers of the carbon plates that eliminates the stack height issues encountered with their product using those plates!

Without this turning into a Product Review post i would classify the Barnett SR-2 upgrade as one of the best improvements to the Warrior for both performance, ease & smoothness of shifting throughout all the gears and the added benefit of finding neutral. Also, the bike no longer longes/jumps when dropping into 1st from neutral.

I'm making this statement after having logged in nearly 33,000 miles with the stock parts and only 16 miles with the new Barnett plate as it is that noticeable []. I suspect that Chris, aka 357WARRIOR will attest to some of the above after taking a short spin with my ride!

What other significant/non-significant changes did i make during the modification? You be the judge.

• INTERNALLY
• CPS recall
• Oil & filter as usual
• New friction plates: (6) - full discs & (2) - 1/2 discs
• Filed minor nicking on the clutch basket and thorough inspection of the clutch boss per manual
• Thorough inspection of the clutch plates & 2 springs, reassembling in original position as removed
• Visual & thorough mechanical test to be sure that the built-in damper between the clutch boss and clutch plate rotated absolutely freely w/o any drag after consulting with Churchkey.
  This test was done with all plates removed and the wire circlip visible. I did not disturb the damper assembly at all.
• Proper centering of the spacer washers that compresses the springs
• Use of Moly & Graphite anti-seize engine assembly lube to the pressure plate bearing, pull rod and pull rod lever spur gear in clutch case



• EXTERNALLY
• Increase clutch cable free play

IMO, the new clutch friction plates were entirely unnecessary and a knee jerk decision because i didn't do my homework properly.

My version of the Factory Manual (LIT-11616-RS-WO) on 5-62 states: Friction Plate Thickness 0.114~0.122"
A thorough inspection of my existing plates revealed a minimum thickness of 0.114-0.115" on (1) only full plate and the others @ approx 0.117"
Based on the above i went out and purchased new friction plates only.

Much to my dismay inspection of the new plates dry revealed that they were only 0.119" thick [:0] so i left that plate in engine oil over night to see if there was any growth. At best maybe 0.00025~.0005"

What to do? ... so i sent out a couple of PM's to some members here to see if they had recorded their friction plate thickness when just replacing the pressure plate and of course no one had this info []

When i purchased the plates from a local Yamaha dealer here in Corona i presented the parts person an invoice printed from one of our site sponsors site with the PN's and net prices. Much to my surprise they had all the parts in stock and matched the pricing. So for $64 and some change i thought it best to use the parts since they were so accommodating to me

Here's the kick in the A$$: Factory Manual on 2-11 clearly states Friction Plate Thicknes:
Standard = 0.114 ~ 0.122 and in right column under LIMIT 0.110"

The moral to the story here is check the front of the Factory Manual for the LIMITS on all wearing parts

quote:

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Originally posted by JPWARRIOR

Interesting....
I installed one of these 4-5 years ago with Barnetts carbon plates and had slippage issues right away.

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I'll attest to that it's much smoother shifting and like Alan said,
much easier to find neutral and the clonk is not bad.[]

I also have an early version of the SR-2 that is still new in the box. I will get a hold of mike right away and see about getting it remachined. Thanks for the great post and info Alan.

quote:

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Originally posted by AlanH

JPWARRIOR.... if i'm not mistaken there was a post recently by a Barnett Tech on our site that addressed an issue regarding the proper part numbers of the carbon plates that eliminates the stack height issues encountered with their product using those plates!

Without this turning into a Product Review post i would classify the Barnett SR-2 upgrade as one of the best improvements to the Warrior for both performance, ease & smoothness of shifting throughout all the gears and the added benefit of finding neutral. Also, the bike no longer longes/jumps when dropping into 1st from neutral.

I'm making this statement after having logged in nearly 33,000 miles with the stock parts and only 16 miles with the new Barnett plate as it is that noticeable []. I suspect that Chris, aka 357WARRIOR will attest to some of the above after taking a short spin with my ride!

What other significant/non-significant changes did i make during the modification? You be the judge.

• INTERNALLY
• CPS recall
• Oil & filter as usual
• New friction plates: (6) - full discs & (2) - 1/2 discs
• Filed minor nicking on the clutch basket and thorough inspection of the clutch boss per manual
• Thorough inspection of the clutch plates & 2 springs, reassembling in original position as removed
• Visual & thorough mechanical test to be sure that the built-in damper between the clutch boss and clutch plate rotated absolutely freely w/o any drag after consulting with Churchkey.
  This test was done with all plates removed and the wire circlip visible. I did not disturb the damper assembly at all.
• Proper centering of the spacer washers that compresses the springs
• Use of Moly & Graphite anti-seize engine assembly lube to the pressure plate bearing, pull rod and pull rod lever spur gear in clutch case



• EXTERNALLY
• Increase clutch cable free play

IMO, the new clutch friction plates were entirely unnecessary and a knee jerk decision because i didn't do my homework properly.

My version of the Factory Manual (LIT-11616-RS-WO) on 5-62 states: Friction Plate Thickness 0.114~0.122"
A thorough inspection of my existing plates revealed a minimum thickness of 0.114-0.115" on (1) only full plate and the others @ approx 0.117"
Based on the above i went out and purchased new friction plates only.

Much to my dismay inspection of the new plates dry revealed that they were only 0.119" thick [:0] so i left that plate in engine oil over night to see if there was any growth. At best maybe 0.00025~.0005"

What to do? ... so i sent out a couple of PM's to some members here to see if they had recorded their friction plate thickness when just replacing the pressure plate and of course no one had this info []

When i purchased the plates from a local Yamaha dealer here in Corona i presented the parts person an invoice printed from one of our site sponsors site with the PN's and net prices. Much to my surprise they had all the parts in stock and matched the pricing. So for $64 and some change i thought it best to use the parts since they were so accommodating to me [^]

Here's the kick in the A$$: Factory Manual on 2-11 clearly states Friction Plate Thicknes:
Standard = 0.114 ~ 0.122 and in right column under LIMIT 0.110"

The moral to the story here is check the front of the Factory Manual for the LIMITS on all wearing parts

quote:

---

Originally posted by JPWARRIOR

Interesting....
I installed one of these 4-5 years ago with Barnetts carbon plates and had slippage issues right away.

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So, you want to sell me your old plates Alan?[]

Hey Guys, realize I'm a bit late tot eh thread, but am wondering if someone can give me a basic run down - I bought the Barnet clutch set late summer of this year and had it installed BUT have not finished putting the bike together yet to use the clutch. What is the best, easiest way to make sure I have the right set up? Thanks for the help!

A careful reading of AlanH's post above will tell you there's nothing you need to do, either will work fine. The SR2 or the new part#511-90-10002 will provide perfectly correct operation. Since your Beast is an '07 your clutch discs are likely in near-new shape with no wear so they should last 50,000 miles (okay maybe that's a little exaggeration). The new part# fits and acts exactly like the old part# - and the new part dated April 18 2007 or after coincidentally provides for .75mm more clutch disc wear although they recommend you watch your discs for cracks when they wear that far when your selected springs place greater pressure on the system. I'm reading this to mean the Barnett 'gold' springs are good to go without further inspection for cracks but that could be wrong.

Edited 1-5-08 by ArizonaWarrior:
I made a clarification above. Just to say it out loud, Barnett was already changing all their part#'s to a new system. The change in machining of the SR-2 happened by coincidence at the same time. Even if they didn't change their part# system the SR-2 would have had the machining change because Barnett recognized the value. Further, since the part itself isn't marked with the part# a good way to know if you have the newer machining design is to measure, or to be sure the date stamp on the part is after April 2007. That being said, as I posted earlier above, either machining design works perfectly - especially on good condition oem clutch discs.

quote:

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Originally posted by GRYPHON

Hey Guys, realize I'm a bit late to the thread, but am wondering if someone can give me a basic run down - I bought the Barnet clutch set late summer of this year and had it installed BUT have not finished putting the bike together yet to use the clutch. What is the best, easiest way to make sure I have the right set up? Thanks for the help!

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