The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

I had quite a few people ask me about this little mod while we were at the Dragon last week so I thought I'd post it. Believe me it's easier than you think! Granted it isn't totally hidden but I think it does show of more of the wheel. Even powdercoating it black makes it stand out much less that stock. Something about the flat black with the green tint. Yuck! Now, this doesn't totally hide the caliper, you could get the top section completely invisible showing more of the bottom, but that would require a custom tab and that's pretty much up to the mod-person on how far they want to go.

Note: this may decrease your rear brake responsiveness some. Personally I don't use it much and hate when I lock it up so I like it this way. If you depend your rear brake to stop you this may not be for you. There I said it!

Anywho here it goes:

The only extra hardware you will need is an extended bolt that will reach up through the bottom of the swing arm and thread into the original mounting tab that is threaded.

Once you remove the rear wheel and disassemble the caliper from the mount you are left with just the mount. Also take the time to remove the brake line since you'll probably want to hide that too! Watch out for that brake fluid it eats stuff like paint!

Take a hacksaw/bandsaw, not a cutoff wheel (not as precise as the thin blade of a hacksaw) and hack off the tab right along the horitzontal axis (right up against the body of the mount. Now you have two parts!

Go ahead and scuff the area to be welded now so when you mark it you won't have to sand it off and remark! Check the pic blow for an idea of where to sand and mark it.

Using a really long drill bit or extension with a drill bit, drill a pilot hole down through the threaded bolt mount tab that is welded to the swingarm. (this is the previous mounting point of the caliper mount bolt).

From the bottom, drill the appropriate size hole for the bolt that will be going up through the swingarm from the bottom. I think it's 7/16 inch but I'll find out when I get home (at work right now...shhhhhh!) Just get the same size as the stock bolt is only about 2.5 inches longer...again I need to double check this.

Next, test fit caliper mount using the axle to hold it in place.

Now take the bolt and run through the tab you hacked off and into the hole you drilled through the bottom of the swingarm. Do not tighten all the way. This is just for a test fit. Check to see where the tab will need to be welded back onto the caliper mount.
*It's important to remember here that you will need to weld the tab in a position where it allows you to still move the rear wheel forward enough to install the belt.*

Once you've marked where the tab needs to be welded just take it to a welding shop you trust and get er done!


Ok, you're back from the welder and probably want to test fit. This should be easy. Go ahead and mock everything up including the caliper mounted and turning on the disc brake and the brake line.

But wait! You can't fit the brake line behind the swing arm? Nope! You will need to do a little grinding to get the small tab that keeps the brake line from going toward the wheel when it's mounted in the old position.

Once everything lines up (hopefully! just kidding) either paint your parts budget style with semigloss or flat or have them powdercoated like I did. Most spray paint, when combined with brake fluid will come right off mind you.

Now, your parts are back from paint (or from the top of the garbage can where you sprayed them quite miserly).

*When reassembling take special note of something. The hidden brake mod rotates the brake downward. Yeah, duh, I know that you're thinking. But alas, check out the bleeder nipple (yeah I said nipple....tee hee). It is no longer the highest point of the system. This is a problem when trying to bleed the rear brake due to air bubbles sitting the resvoir of the caliper. SOLUTION- bleed that sucker while the rear wheel is off the bike! Yes it's a pain but thankfully the rear brakes seldomly need to be bled and removing the rear wheel on this bike ain't that bad. I have yet to need to do it since and it's been six months. I also relocated the brake line under the side of the swing instead of on top of it as well as taking the resevoir out of the system.

So far, I have noticed a slightly softer rear brake but I like it that way. Locking the rear brake is something I don't like doing anyway so I guess I'm set. I hope you are too! Good luck.

And remember, if it doesn't work, you didn't get the idea from me!













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This one's for you Timmy! []

Looks great and very nice job!Thanks for the how to!!!!!!

thats so awsome thank you!!!!, i had asked about it, but this helps out a bunch, i want to do this, when i go with the big tire kit....

as long as im going to do it, i think i will cut "the window" out of the caliper as well...

also where did you get those red bolts midnight? do they make them in different colors? what are they, anodized?

Awesome job! Another one on my long to do list.

The red bolts can be bought from Lockhart Phillips. They have all kinds of colors. beware, they are aluminum and need locktight. Not recommended for the bolts that need to be torqued down. Thanks dudes!

Midnight-Great Job. You never seize to amaze me with your mods.

So sweet

that looks sweet and u are right realy opens the rear tire

That is a great mod Midnight, looks much better IMO. This website and the ideas that members have never ceases to amaze me!

sweeeet! and your an welding-artist as far as i can see.

And I just spent an hour at work yesterday doing a forum search for this mod.....[] Beautiful job. Wonder if Cycle Image or Performance Edge could offer the welding service?

Did the mod last week. I used a much longer bolt going in from the bottom to thread through the threaded boss in the swingarm and then put a nut and washer on it on top of the swingarm. Because the force put on the bracket now wants to pull the bolt down through the swingarm, I don't trust just the aluminum threads in the swingarm. Had to buy a 10mm x 1.25 die to make more threads on the bolt. If I can find a longer one I'll double nut it and safety wire it and look for a something to cover it with.*

Wish I had your great description last week, Eric. Did some stuff a little a** backwards. Had to make the new hole in the bottom of the swingarm a little oblong because the threads did not line up perfectly first time.

Thanks for the idea and know-how.

*I'm the prince of overkill.

No problem guys. Hope it works out for you. I originally put a longer bolt through the swingarm and a bolt on top but I decided to see how well the aluminum threads hold up.

Sorry Cadman, I wanted to get this post up for you but I was a little busy last week riding a little road out in Tennessee with a bunch of corners.

Cheers!

Eric, you've got your priorities straight. My welder cut deep wedges on both sides of the of the tab for better weld penetration. It's not pretty but no one will see. Doing the three spoke pulley mod now.