The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

**UPDATED STATUS and ADDITIONAL QUESTION**

I was able to get the desired effect I was hoping for; the faster blink rate and both the front and rear LED's working.

The fix was to install a 6.2 Ohm, 25W Load Equalizer on EACH of the front signals (installed in parallel). Much Thanks to Alan who sat on the phone with me twice to help me out.

To install in parallel you need to solder one end (doesn't matter which one) to the green wire (right signal power) and the other end to the ground (black) line. Repeat for the Brown (left signal).

Tape them up well and I inserted them in my headlight housing. Test fitted the headlight last night. It will go in with minimal 'cramming'.

what I haven't addressed yet is the issue with turnig the bike off in gear and/or with the kill switch (click of death).

My plan is to run power from the blue lines (running lamps for front signals) back to 2 seperate locations. 1 will be an blue tinted incandescent bulb mounted in a lamp housing and located in my now empty speedstar air scoop. The other place I plan to use that power is to run back to my relocated license plate bracket to run 2 directional white LED's to illuminate my plate.

My question directly is do I need to use the ground circuit from the original running lamps, (all the way back up in the headlight housing) or can I just use a direct ground elsewhere?



I've installed the Custom Dynamics rear taillight (LED), and am planning on installing the front CD wrap arounds and removing the stock front signals.

I've already experienced the fast blinking in the rear taillight and the front stock signals.

My question is regarding the issue with being forced to turn off the bike in neutral with the key only.

If I wired up both a aftermarket incandescent light for my license plate (relocated) and one either in the headlight (or was thinking of running it to the now empty Speed* air scoop (maybe a blue light), would this rectify the issue by supplying enough of a load to the ECU to satisfy it's needs (in order to alleviate the aforementioned issue with killing the bike with the key only and in neutral only)?

I ask because I am SOMEWHAT electrically inclined, but not a pro.

Thoughts??

With that being said, would ONE bulb be enough to satisfy it, or do I need one on each circuit (front and rear)?

I like the fast blinking...and would prefer to keep it, but I'm assuming I'd lose that if I did the 2 bulb setup, yes??

If I go with just 1 bulb (front OR rear), do I still face the issue of being forced to kill with key/neutral?

Sorry so long winded.

The fast blinking cure is a load equalizer.

The shut down issue is the front running light circuit. So you just need the one bulb in the headlight to rectify that (attached to the running lightwire -blue wire)

Thanks Bruce. Just to reiterate, so I fully understand:

As long as I hook up some load (such as an incandscent bulb) to the FRONT running light (blue wire I believe) that will satisfy the ECU's load needs and I can retain the fast blinking by NOT hooking up a load to the rear circuit?

If true, would you think that I'm required by law (and I know it's different from state to state) to have some sort of illumination on the license plate?
If so, I'm guessing anything other than white (natural) light would be illegal??

Again, I know it's state by state. Minnesota is pretty strict on some things.

quote:

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Originally posted by fruitjacket

Thanks Bruce. Just to reiterate, so I fully understand:

As long as I hook up some load (such as an incandscent bulb) to the FRONT running light (blue wire I believe) that will satisfy the ECU's load needs (thus removing the issue with the key/neutral issue) and I can retain the fast blinking by NOT hooking up a load to the rear circuit? IE..for me...best of both worlds.

If true, would you think that I'm required by law (and I know it's different from state to state) to have some sort of illumination on the license plate?
If so, I'm guessing anything other than white (natural) light would be illegal??

Again, I know it's state by state. Minnesota is pretty strict on some things.

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quote:

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Originally posted by fruitjacket

Thanks Bruce. Just to reiterate, so I fully understand:

As long as I hook up some load (such as an incandscent bulb) to the FRONT running light (blue wire I believe) that will satisfy the ECU's YESload needs and I can retain the fast blinking by NOT hooking up a load to the rear circuit?You will still have fast blinking even if you hook up a new plate light.
If true, would you think that I'm required by law (and I know it's different from state to state) to have some sort of illumination on the license plate?Where I am you have to have a (white) plate light.
If so, I'm guessing anything other than white (natural) light would be illegal??

Again, I know it's state by state. Minnesota is pretty strict on some things.

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So don't worry...if you want to keep your fast flash, you can have the plate light AND the bulb in the headlight to satisfy running light circuit and unless you equalize the load on the front signal light wires (as opposed to running light wire) you should have what you want.

Very cool. Thanks Bruce!!

quote:

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Originally posted by bruce59

quote:

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Originally posted by fruitjacket

Thanks Bruce. Just to reiterate, so I fully understand:

As long as I hook up some load (such as an incandscent bulb) to the FRONT running light (blue wire I believe) that will satisfy the ECU's YESload needs and I can retain the fast blinking by NOT hooking up a load to the rear circuit?You will still have fast blinking even if you hook up a new plate light.
If true, would you think that I'm required by law (and I know it's different from state to state) to have some sort of illumination on the license plate?Where I am you have to have a (white) plate light.
If so, I'm guessing anything other than white (natural) light would be illegal??

Again, I know it's state by state. Minnesota is pretty strict on some things.

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So don't worry...if you want to keep your fast flash, you can have the plate light AND the bulb in the headlight to satisfy running light circuit and unless you equalize the load on the front signal light wires (as opposed to running light wire) you should have what you want.

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Many of us with integrated tail lights and livence plates mounted under the tail light actually remove the separate rear plate light because at night the integrated tail light illuminates the plate enough that we don't have troubles. See my gallery for how that looks.

quote:

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Originally posted by ArizonaWarrior


Many of us with integrated tail lights and livence plates mounted under the tail light actually remove the separate rear plate light because at night the integrated tail light illuminates the plate enough that we don't have troubles. See my gallery for how that looks.

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That's what I figured I would do but it doesn't seem the integrated light puts enough light on the plate and it's also not white so what I'm doing is adding a little 4 or 5" white LED strip to the bottom of my integrated lens so it will illuminate the plate and still not really be seen like the big honkin stock incandescent plate light.

Fruit it looks like you got it straight but the confusion I think you were having is thinking the turns and the running lights ran on the same circuit and shared that load which they don't. That's why when you hook up that front running light bulb you'll solve the one problem and still not affect that flash rate on the turns. And as I understood it, front and back makes no difference. Turns in back are on the same circuit with the front and likewise for running.

Nobody seems interested in using those wrap around LEDs with the dual intensity adapter and having them serve as both. Why is that? Am I making a mistake planning to do it that way?

The shut down issue (Electrical: Click of Death: Solenoid Syndrome) aka Click of Death, COD can be corrected in several convenient locations where you can pickup the Blue running light wire and GRND.

• Headlight housing - Front running lights snap connectors
  


• Under the ECU - Rear fender harness - Hitachi 5-pin connector
  
  
• Rear Taillight - Tail or License light snap connectors

Although the frt running lights are separately fused (Headlight Circuit) from the Frt/Rear Turn Signals, Tail/Brake Light and License Plate Light (Signal Circuit) the result of adding a small resistive load from the Blue wire to GRND in any of these locations will solve the problem.

I believe Bugei has his 1K ohm 10 watt resistor hanging on the rear taillight which is equivalent to my 100 ohm sealed Relay under the seat being on the exact same Blue wire.

Retaining the stock incadescent License light will prevent the problem as well as going with a dual filament incadescent aftermarket frt run/turn light.

Others have a small instrument bulb in the headlight housing. Here's the PIONEER of that mod and the original thread: 99stangit

aftermarket blinkers (how to). No cliking noise

quote:

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Originally posted by MarcoPolo

quote:

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Originally posted by ArizonaWarrior


Many of us with integrated tail lights and livence plates mounted under the tail light actually remove the separate rear plate light because at night the integrated tail light illuminates the plate enough that we don't have troubles. See my gallery for how that looks.

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That's what I figured I would do but it doesn't seem the integrated light puts enough light on the plate and it's also not white so what I'm doing is adding a little 4 or 5" white LED strip to the bottom of my integrated lens so it will illuminate the plate and still not really be seen like the big honkin stock incandescent plate light.

Fruit it looks like you got it straight but the confusion I think you were having is thinking the turns and the running lights ran on the same circuit and shared that load which they don't. That's why when you hook up that front running light bulb you'll solve the one problem and still not affect that flash rate on the turns. And as I understood it, front and back makes no difference. Turns in back are on the same circuit with the front and likewise for running.

Nobody seems interested in using those wrap around LEDs with the dual intensity adapter and having them serve as both. Why is that? Am I making a mistake planning to do it that way?

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Marco, I was just looking into ifo to do the same myself. I'm ordering the 1' strips from Radiantz ( cheaper tan custom dynamics) and I too want to run the dual intensity set up to keep marker light on the front. Hopfully someone can chime in but I have the feeling that even if we use the dual intensity set up, the load the LED's will put on the circuit will be too light to keep the fuel pump deal from happening. One sur way to find out though. Just gunna do it and see what happens.

Wow I can't spell for S$%^ at 1am on 2hrs sleep. Time for bed

I'm pretty sure you're right about that demon but as I understand it you can still add resistance to the circuit giving the load needed to prevent that problem. I would assume you could add it right there on the blue wire connection to the dual intensity adapter and still not affect the running light function of the LEDs. I could be wrong though and adding that resistance would dim them when being used as running lights but I doubt it. We'll see I guess. I'm expecting my lights this week.

There's a old saying dealing with electronics; "Ground is ground, all around." The one caveat would be the digital ground, NOT the same. The closer to the battery the better, although it's more important that the wire is sized for the current draw. 25W is about 2 amps at 12v...I'd be more afraid of the resistor melting whatever they're "crammed" against.

Below you will find links to questions and answers for any possible scenario pertaining to LED's, rate blink issue's, load equalizer's, resistor's etc. Some of the info goes all the way back to 2002 & 2003 Archived Topics. All one has got to do is Search, Research and Read. The Answers are already on this forum. The History and Experience on this forum is extensive. If the question was asked and is still being asked today it was answered years ago and the answers are the same today......Search First. Ask Questions Second.


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