The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Alright - Alright, I tried spinning it up so the bleeder is at 12 O'Clock postion, would bleed and the pedal would feel good, but then when I spin it down the brake pedal goes to the stop. I can't figure this damn thing out, maybe I'll head to the autostore to get a MightyVac.

I figured it out. The back of the caliper is too tight against the swing arm - so it can't compress. So it looks like a little bit of grinding, and I should be good to go.

Kev,
I don't have the hidden brake mod, but have used the mighty vac. it's only about $22 at O'Reilys. (Autozone was ~ $30). It worked real good. They give you a bunch of different size hoses to put on there. Use the one that is realy tight. One will fit, but the smaller one works better.

Yeah, I went and bought the mightyvac - seems like it would work great, there just isn't enough room for my caliper to move, so I have to grind the swing-arm tomorrow - no big deal. I'm surpised I'm the first that's had to do this though.

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Originally posted by Cat_Daddy

Kev,
I don't have the hidden brake mod, but have used the mighty vac. it's only about $22 at O'Reilys. (Autozone was ~ $30). It worked real good. They give you a bunch of different size hoses to put on there. Use the one that is realy tight. One will fit, but the smaller one works better.

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Originally posted by fpc187

Does anyone the part# associated with the speedbleeder that fits our warriors. I think I am going to get a set.

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Thanks Snyper 39 & DFW Warrior.

SB8125,L,LL.I would get the @ least the L.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

kevin....a couple of things to check:
Be sure that the spacer collar is between the caliper mounting bracket and the wheel.
The thicker brake pad on the outboard side of the caliper(opposite piston) with the hardware will improve the clearance.
Verify that the pads are installed properly with the hardware and seating against the rotor.

If you installed the rear rotor incorrectly it will not seat properly on the wheel and could also contribute to the problem.

Worn pads or a thin rotor will worsen the clearance.

As you stated, it's surprising that no one has mentioned this issue.

This side faces rotor cover & caliper []

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Thanks Alan, I've double checked everything, and the pads are worn a little, but I don't want to replace the pads just to have this problem again after they wear down.

I just had to grind off a little more of the lower right side of the swing-arm. It works great now. I should have done that when I was modding the swing-arm for the 240.

Welcome Busaman Mark...

Hey Kevin, where on the swingarm did you have to grind? Will it effect your swingarm integrity? Just curious, not sure why I didn't have to do that, since I just completed this mod too and I have the 240 swingarm too.

[?]

After looking at it, I don't think it's going to effect the intergrity, but I will keep a close eye on it. I took off a miniscule amount compared to what I had to do to get the 240 to fit.

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Originally posted by Snyper39

Welcome Busaman Mark...

Hey Kevin, where on the swingarm did you have to grind? Will it effect your swingarm integrity? Just curious, not sure why I didn't have to do that, since I just completed this mod too and I have the 240 swingarm too.

[?]

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Edited:
Snyper39.... just my .02...but i suspect that Kevin's caliper is hanging slightly lower to the ground and as a result the body of the caliper was touching the support casting that is welded to the swing arm extrusion.

The slight interference prevented the caliper piston and pads from contacting the rotor thus resulting in the loss of brake pedal travel when appyling the rear brakes.

Your modified caliper mounting brackets are from different suppliers []

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Originally posted by Snyper39

Welcome Busaman Mark...

Hey Kevin, where on the swingarm did you have to grind? Will it effect your swingarm integrity? Just curious, not sure why I didn't have to do that, since I just completed this mod too and I have the 240 swingarm too.

[?]

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You mean rear brakes I would imagine.

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Originally posted by AlanH

Snyper39.... just my .02...but i suspect that Kevin's caliper is hanging slightly lower to the ground and as a result the body of the caliper was touching the support casting that is welded to the swing arm extrusion.

The slight interference prevented the caliper piston and pads from contacting the rotor thus resulting in the loss of lever travel when appyling the front brakes.

Your modified caliper mounting brackets are from different suppliers []

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Originally posted by Snyper39

Welcome Busaman Mark...

Hey Kevin, where on the swingarm did you have to grind? Will it effect your swingarm integrity? Just curious, not sure why I didn't have to do that, since I just completed this mod too and I have the 240 swingarm too.

[?]

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I'm in the middle of this very problem right now. I shaved down the inner part of the s/arm as shown here..

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I have sufficent clearance so that nothing touches, except a hair of the brake line collar about 1.5" from the banjo bolt... pics here..
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I spent an hour and a half trying to bleed the brakes last night, wit the help of 16Shy and my buddy Curt. First no pedal pressure. It woudl build up then disappear. We used the MityVac and gravity bleeding. Went thru over 1/2 bottle of new fluid! Finally got tight pedal pressure, brakes were grabbing good while on the lift. Rolled out of the garage.. NOTHING AGAIN.

I'm at a loss here.. I wonder if I clipped off a little much on the caliper banjo bolt nipple as seen here?

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Only thing is, we got pedal pressure, but then nothing..

I wish I woudl have NEVER messed with this stupid hidden caliper mod.. It's been nothing but a PITA.

Jason,
Not to add salt to the wound but just a few observations, sugestions & solution.

Just for the record, the CI 240 swingarms i have seen have that part of the casting completely ground off to clear the tire/wheel so it isn't an issue with their widened arm. Just so you know []

IMO, if you have a good pedal on the lift and bad when you lower the bike and move it then i suspect the rotor is collapsing the piston which will result in a low pedal.

Anything else done to rear wheel?

A means of trouble shooting this scenario is removing the caliper body and firmly blocking the piston/no deflection so you can apply the brakes off the bike safely.

Be sure that all the caliper components clear the swingarm to accommodate the belt adjustment and future pad wear.

Regarding the banjo bolt surface and mat'l removed, if it doesn't leak it's fine, no problema!

Edited:
It looks like you need to remove more metal from the inside of the swingarm to clear the hose. As i stated earlier on the CI 240 wide arm it's ground flush to the extruded rectangular tubing on the right.
The caliper needs to be able to float and self center over the rotor at all times else you're flexing/bending the rotor if the hose or caliper body comes in contact with the inside of the swingarm.

I hope this sheds some light to the subject
Good Luck

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Jason,
Not to add salt to the wound but just a few observations, sugestions & solution.

I always welcome your knowledge and advice Alan!

Just for the record, the CI 240 swingarms i have seen have that part of the casting completely ground off to clear the tire/wheel so it isn't an issue with their widened arm. Just so you know

I may wind up having to grind more off, so to be sure. Assuming I am going to have to take the rear wheel off, I will get out the Dremel and a few course sanding drums and go to it a little more for that added bot of clearance. I figure that as long as I don't shave off any more than the reinforcement material, it will be fine.

IMO, if you have a good pedal on the lift and bad when you lower the bike and move it then i suspect the rotor is collapsing the piston which will result in a low pedal.

I had great pedal on the lift and then NOTHING on the ground and rolling. Why would the rotor collapse the piston? Unless it has just enough downward force to cause it to drop slightly and then the caliper hits the inner swingarm as pressure is applied?

Anything else done to rear wheel?
Nope. Nothing. Pulled it off, put it back on.
A means of trouble shooting this scenario is removing the caliper body and firmly blocking the piston/no deflection so you can apply the brakes off the bike safely.

Like taking a block of wood and wedging in the caliper?

Be sure that all the caliper components clear the swingarm to accommodate the belt adjustment and future pad wear.

I could see belt adjustment as a concern if you had to pull the wheel forward, but why would pad wear be cause for concern? Seems to me that the thinner the pads, the further from the arm the piston would be, UNLESS, as the piston pushes in, the caliper housing moves out.. is that what you mean?

Regarding the banjo bolt surface and mat'l removed, if it doesn't leak it's fine, no problema!

No leaking.. I'm really thinking that there is simply an air bubble trapped above the bleeder screw right now and since we bles it all mounted up and rotated into position, the air bublle won't work it's way to the bleeder screw due to it's lower position. The first thing I am going to try is to rotate the assm'y up so that the bleeder screw is as high as I can get it, which will still be lower than it's stock position due to the shortening of the stock brake line, and try bleeding again with the mityvac.. If that doesn't work.. I'll pull the wheel, etc off, and grind more material off the built up/reinforced portion of the s/arm where I had already shaved it down.

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