The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

For anyone that has done this swap, have you noticed any change in mileage, either positive or negative, with the 33 tooth '03 Road Star
pulley installed in place of the stocker(32 tooth)? I'm thinking of doing it to drop highway revs...feedback would be appreciated!

Thanx

I'm Scheduled for the Yamaha Dealer Service Dept. next Tues to install the 33 tooth pulley. As I reviewed the posts on this issue it seems that the RPMS will reduce by about 200 at 70 MPH. I'm hoping it will give me longer range between fill ups. I also anticipate the speedometer will register lower MPH, although it seems that the stock setup of the speedometer tends to register high speeds than you are actually travelling. I will update you as to the difference after I get the mod done.

Thanx for the input, gman...I looked at the other posts as well, but didn't really see much pertaining to any mileage gains(or losses) so I thought I'd ask. Mine goes in for the dual recall jobs May 1, and I may have the dealer do the pulley swap along with the SR-2 clutch when they do the required work on the TPS and coil pick-up. You know that the pulley width is different, and that there has to be some metal machined off of the front and back faces to compensate for this?

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Originally posted by SuicideD_45

You know that the pulley width is different, and that there has to be some metal machined off of the front and back faces to compensate for this?

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That may not be true...I put on the Road Star 31 tooth (also wider) and I was able to bolt it right up with no rubbing problems....but others have had to machine the inside lip off.....You never know, but since the dealer is installing it for you, you might want to have to have it machined before you take it to them.

That's exactly what I was going to do, Condrons, but good of you to mention it. Do you have a 240(or wider ) kit on yours? I know that belt alignment is a critical issue with them? Mine has the stock swingarm, so I'm hoping there won't be any issues with that.

So I am still wondering what the 33 tooth pulley will do to my acceleration. It will give me lower RPM at the top end so bike will have a higher top speed but what does it do to the bottom and midrange gears.

I recently installed the 33T Road* OEM steel pulley on my bike with the 70T Road* 1 1/2" wide pulley, 1 1/2" Panther Belt and 240 Metzler tire

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I did 90 miles total at elevated speeds on my way down to Phats to pickup the wide belt and had the 33T frt pulley and stock rear wheel, pulley, belt and new Metzler 130/70HR18 front tire.

Really didn't notice a big difference as i was focusing on the newly mounted tire, frt bearings, rotors etc on the chromed wheel that i had assembled

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I now have nearly 900 miles on the completed mod and still haven't got a handle on the mileage or speedo error.

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One thing i have noticed is that i'm not looking for that elusive 6th gear any longer  and i'll find myself riding in 4th on the freeway . The changes have affected the light to light performance slightly, but that's not where i'm at 

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I'm not the pioneer of this mod but i can say without a shadow of doubt that you need only machine one side of the pulley that faces the case...nada mas...

FACT: the OEM 33T Road* '99~03' frt pulley must be machined to fit our bike

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Taken from this post:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49007
Here's another topic that i added my .02 :http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49638

Absolutely....the rear flange is removed and the step should be machined 1/8" to clear the middle shaft case gussets.

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The 33T Road* Pulley Flange just touches the Stay Bracket so i removed 1/32" mat'l if that with a Dremel disc
The flange sits behind the stay bracket when assembled to the middle shaft. This course of action isn't required
if you choose to remove the bracket    Stock Road* pulley shown in last photo before machining at bottom

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Originally posted by longdrives

If I get the RStar 33 tooth, part # 4WM-17651-00-00, will it need to be shaved if I am still using the stock pully cover and insert? I searched but the thickness reduction of the pulley seemed to be related to the Yammi pulley case set.

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Originally posted by shivaman

So I am still wondering what the 33 tooth pulley will do to my acceleration. It will give me lower RPM at the top end so bike will have a higher top speed but what does it do to the bottom and midrange gears.

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If you are into drag racing or wheelies, it's going to mess you up. Otherwise, you'll be used to it by the end of the first ride. I like being able to get across the intersection before I have to hit second.

Mileage... "appears" to be unchanged. Remember that you are now traveling further than the odo says you are.

AlanH, thanks for the nice pics....they are going to prove very helpful. However, I need
clarification..the top pic shows the pulley, before machining, while the pic on its right shows
it after machining...am I to understand that the area that is machined off is the "ring"
secured by the 6 spot welds around the inner lip of the pulley itself? That is to say,
if I take a dremel and just remove those welds, smooth them off, the pulley will/should
mount on my '04? Also, the "stay bracket" you talk about, does it have to be there?...is it
essential to the safe operation of the bike? Maybe Bladerunner could chime in here too...I want this to
be crystal clear when I go to have it done!

You guys are an invaluable source of info...thanks very much for helping a guy out.

Edit:

PS: who was using the 40" monitor?? We have to side scroll now to see what the rest of the posts say!!!!![:0][V][!][|)]

I've done the mod,...you get better gas mileage!

I did that myself. There isn't a big difference in acceleration from a stop. A little but not much. My brother has an 05 he rode mine after the pulley swap and said he could tell no difference between his and mine. Both have churchkeys BAK, but I have a propipe verses his cobras. Maybe my PP makes the difference.

SuicideD_45....I'm saddened & surprised that the information i presented here as well as all the listed threads aren't clear to you and need interpretation []

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The 2-top photos are the machined pulley and the bottom right photo is the stock Road* pulley before machining as shown in BLUE ITALICS.

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Absolutely....the rear flange is removed and the step should be machined 1/8" to clear the middle shaft case gussets.

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The pulley is symmetrical on both axis and yes you can use your Dremel cut-off wheel to remove the FLANGE RING that has the 6-stitch welds as i did.

You will still need to have the pulley machined as stated and i recommend you use a shop that has experience with cutting hard materials like H13 or 4340HT. It is extremely hard, probably 48-50Rc Rockwell and will require a carbide cutter and lathe if you want it done properly IMHO.

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Left bottom photo shows the stay bracket between the pulley (right side) and frame and is a structural component that is required.

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Hope this answers all your questions []

Alan, it was clear, but I wanted to be absolutely sure beyond any reasonable doubt
what had to be done...this project is a first for me, and I'm sure you can understand
the importance of detail.

quote:

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Originally posted by SuicideD_45

Thanx for the input, gman...I looked at the other posts as well, but didn't really see much pertaining to any mileage gains(or losses) so I thought I'd ask. Mine goes in for the dual recall jobs May 1, and I may have the dealer do the pulley swap along with the SR-2 clutch when they do the required work on the TPS and coil pick-up. You know that the pulley width is different, and that there has to be some metal machined off of the front and back faces to compensate for this?

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The pulley is at the shop, already machined and waiting for install, good luck with your mods.

Well, this looks like the next mod..