The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

My clutch is starting to slip and I need to replace it soon. I've searched a lot, but haven't found a step by step guide like I have for other maintenance issues. I have the service manual and that works okay, but I was wondering if anyone has written up a nice guide with pictures and details?

I have a BAK and Chambermaids, so I think OEM should be fine for the parts. I know I need the friction plates, but should I also get the clutch plates and the springs from Yamaha. I've read that you can tell if you need new clutch plates by looking at them, but if I look at them, decide I need them, and don't have them, I won't be able to do it in a day.

Do I need any special tools? The repair manual said something about a clutch basket wrench and I saw another post where someone made one from a chunk of plywood. Since I'm just replacing the plates, would I need one of those?

Replacing a clutch is pretty easy. It just entails removing the cover, undo the clutch basket, and replace the discs and put it back together. As a tip soak the clutch discs in oil overnight so that they are already the right thickness so that you dont have to adjust later.

So do I need a special tool to undo the clutch basket? I have a torque wrench and I've read that it's important not to overtighten the bolts.

Do yourself a favor and go with the barnett clutch spring kit when you put it back together, you will not regret it.

I agree, use the Barnett spring clutch. Not that I put the 20% (speed*) stiffer spring in first and know the difference, I went right for the Barnett, but it works well...

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Originally posted by aerospace_scott

So do I need a special tool to undo the clutch basket? I have a torque wrench and I've read that it's important not to overtighten the bolts.

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Replace the stock bolts, they are soft.

You do not need the plywood clutch basket tool to replace the discs. You will need it if you want to remove the basket from the bike but that is not necessary for a disc change. I made the thing but cannot find the PIC.



I did not reinstall the wire retainer in the rear of the basket that retains the last 3-4 plates (item 11 below). I felt it created to much drag on those plates.

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Didn't FXSTEIN use Vmax plates?

 i'm thinkingof replacing the clutch too.

where did you get this diagram?

would you kindly send me the copy for better viewing?

 

thanks in advance!!!

bonaldi@kresnanto.net

kresnanto:

 i'm thinkingof replacing the clutch too.

where did you get this diagram?

would you kindly send me the copy for better viewing?

 

thanks in advance!!!

bonaldi@kresnanto.net

Go to yamaha-motor.com, select star cycles, in the top title bar select parts catalog, enter the year & model of your bike then select the item you want to view from the menu. If you cannot sort it out shoot me a pm with your email addy & I will send the copy, Cannot do it now, its on my shop computer.

There is now a more direct link: http://www.starmotorcycles.com/

Under STAR click on "Parts & Service" to get here: http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/service/servicehome/home.aspx

Once you get inside from there, you can select your model-year then right-click to print any diagram or part list. Even tho the year often doesn't matter, sometimes it does!

Many of us feel the OEM Yami clutch plates and friction materials are the best quality, especially when coupled with the revised Barnett SR-2 spring.

When I changed my discs and spring, I sometimes wish I had left out the wire circlip mentioned above, too.  It's an old racer's trick to wire the inside discs so they lock-up faster.  Its great for racing but its a pain for day-to-day.

Thank you for the link!

This is my first warrior and I notice that when I pull the clutch handle to put into the 1st gear, it clunking (kinda hard to get into 1st in the beggining) and it feel like the clutch lever is not pulled far enough but going 2nd and the rest is just fine.

Is this normal or need clutch replacement?

 thanks again!

Good news!! You don't need a clutch!

All you need is to adjust the cable...

 

kresnanto:

Thank you for the link!

This is my first warrior and I notice that when I pull the clutch handle to put into the 1st gear, it clunking (kinda hard to get into 1st in the beggining) and it feel like the clutch lever is not pulled far enough but going 2nd and the rest is just fine.

Is this normal or need clutch replacement?

 thanks again!

You do not need a clutch.

It has a wet clutch, the plates tend to stick together when it sits overnight.

Adjust the thumb wheel at the clutch lever. You want the free play to be no more than the thickness of a dime. I like the free play to be no more than the thickness of a credit card.

When the engine is cold: Pull the clutch in & blip the throttle a few times. Let it return to normal idle then put it in first gear with authority.

Your good to go.

Did anyone say "Kresnanto you don't need a clutch" yet

j/k seriously here's some helpful links from popular mods for adjusting your clutch.  One extra tip, I also like to watch the clutch case "push lever" (item #5 below) act and make sure the lever is 'just' landing (so the cable is just barely going slack) to assure good clutch disc contact without using up too much cable range for adjustments.

Clutch - Cable - Adjustment: (see details in Service Manual)
Clutch - Cable - Adjustment: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/120382.aspx
Clutch - Cable - Adjustment: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/22247.aspx
Clutch - Cable - Adjustment: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/26078.aspx
Clutch - Cable - Adjustment: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/107410.aspx 

If you are already an experienced search-tool-user give that a try too.

Yup, it's interesting how things get lost in translation

• Item 5 & Item 32 are both listed as PUSH components in the Yamaha Parts Fiche but in the Real World are PULL components as is the Clutch Cable
• The clutch cable PULLS the Lever 5 CCW which in turn rotates the shaft 7 causing the small pinion near the end to rotate CCW translating the rotary motion to a Linear movement thru the rack gear machined on one face of Item 32 which in turn PULLS against the pressure plate Item 25 via the Brg 32 relaxing the clutch plates for shifting.
• When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout

Follow the Pope's Instructions HERE!

Arizona Warrior:

....  One extra tip, I also like to watch the clutch case "push lever" (item #5 below) act and make sure the lever is 'just' landing (so the cable is just barely going slack) to assure good clutch disc contact without using up too much cable range for adjustments.