The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

I've got a rather curious question. If I remember correctly, the Warrior has a measly 31 amp alternator/stator right? I removed the license plate light a long time ago and the wires have been tucked away ever since.

What I'm curious to know is if I could adapt an AC inverter to that wiring in order to power either an AC inverter or chargers for the iPod and cell phone (only one in use at a time, of course). The device I would be using that requires AC voltage would draw a max of 11 watts. It has been forever since I have done electrical equations and the like so I can't remember what that comes out to in amperage. Between one to two amps is my guess. Main question is does the Warrior have enough "oomph" to handle that draw, even though it is small?

Why dont you just buy the car chargers for them both since the car chargers are 12 volts dc? the inverter might draw too much current.

http://www.motoleather.com/moac--motorcycle-cigarette-lighters.html

http://www.powerletproducts.com/products.php?mid=1

Thanks for the links Vector![]

Creature, I will be using car adapters for the iPod and phone. I need an inverter for a piece of audio recording gear I will use from time to time (don't ask, I'm just weird and am experimenting)[:I]

yes, you could run an 11 watt inverter off that wiring. I wouldn't recommend it. I'd run it straight off the battery. 11 watts at 13.8 volts is 0.797 amps. All the lighting goes through the ECM. If your device has a variable draw, it could make the ECM go stupid. That's why I'd run it straight off the battery, with a 5 amp fuse.

Here's a small inverter that will do the work without harming the charging system:http://www.baber.com/baber/inverters/prowatt50.htm

As flb_78 stated you'll want to wire it directly to the battery with a fuse for short circuit protection []

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Originally posted by flb_78

yes, you could run an 11 watt inverter off that wiring. I wouldn't recommend it. I'd run it straight off the battery. 11 watts at 13.8 volts is 0.797 amps. All the lighting goes through the ECM. If your device has a variable draw, it could make the ECM go stupid. That's why I'd run it straight off the battery, with a 5 amp fuse.

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Damn good suggestion and good point about the ECU circuitry. Thanks for the conversion too.[]

So I guess the wiring that went to the license light is pretty much worthless now huh? Unless I decide to put leds somewhere I suppose since it would be a constant draw.[?]

Not so, it's an excellent source of switched DC power for other applications []

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Originally posted by rippin1700

So I guess the wiring that went to the license light is pretty much worthless now huh? Unless I decide to put leds somewhere I suppose since it would be a constant draw.[?]

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Such as?? If I'm going to be hacking away under the seat/fender/gas tank, I might as well get some ideas and a plan together so I can get it all done at one time.[][]

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Originally posted by AlanH

Not so, it's an excellent source of switched DC power for other applications []

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Originally posted by rippin1700

So I guess the wiring that went to the license light is pretty much worthless now huh? Unless I decide to put leds somewhere I suppose since it would be a constant draw.[?]

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Such as powering the coil of an automotive relay that will switch the feed from your battery to the cigarette lighter, etc, etc []

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Originally posted by rippin1700

Such as?? If I'm going to be hacking away under the seat/fender/gas tank, I might as well get some ideas and a plan together so I can get it all done at one time.[][]

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such as running an extra coil for afterburners?
just curious!

Alan:
so you're saying that the leads for the rear lights coudl be tied into a relay which would feed, say, a dual plug cigarette lighter adapter? Which then could be used to power a GPS, cell phone charger, iPod, etc?

Jason...specifically the BLUE wire in this photo is the running light circuit for the rear lights. It is available under the seat below the ECU in the wire tray and terminates at the rear fender. It is protected by the 10amp Signal circuit fuse!

The blue wire is switched on by the ignition key and is fused according to the signal circuit. A typical general purpose single pole automotive relay (horn relay) draws approx 1.6 amp @ 90 ohms and produces less than 2.5 watts which is absolutely nothing.
An added benefit is that it will eliminate the CLICK of DEATH or Solenoid Syndrome if running full LED's as the coil acts as a bleed down resistor when the key is turned off http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25934/377658.aspx#377658 syndrome

Now, the normally open contact from the relay can be connected directly to the battery positive lead with an inline fuse to power the dual plug cigarette lighter adapter which will only work when the key is ON

You'll want to tap into the main harness side as i did and not the fender wiring for maintenance:

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Originally posted by RRUFAST

Alan:
so you're saying that the leads for the rear lights coudl be tied into a relay which would feed, say, a dual plug cigarette lighter adapter? Which then could be used to power a GPS, cell phone charger, iPod, etc?

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Just in case you haven't already gotten enough answers. I run directly to my battery and on the road I'm frequently charging a camera battery with an inverted, a laptop with an inverter, and charging aa and aaa cells. I also run a cigarette lighter under my yamaha mini faring as well as running my PDA and GPS off of an inverter all last vacation. Oops, I also at the same time as all that other crap, run Gerbings heated jacket liner and gloves. Most of the time, all of this crap is plugged in at once. An Ipod is virtually no drain.