The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

I've had my triples powdercoated. I'm re-installing the steering stem and wanted to know if it's supposed to fit flush with the bottom of the triple or protrude out a few millimeters?
I made a tool to re-install it and can't crank it any further.

JP... see if this photo helps you out:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/_Upload/alanh/200741833052_DSCN2845.jpg

I'm not at home else i'd check!

That,s as far as it goes.

just measured mine with a dial indicator guage, measured right at .065"inch protruding outward from the bottom clamp. after i had mine powdercoated 2-3yrs ago, i had yammi dealer press it back in for me, sooo, there u go. hope that helps.[8D]

I think those need to be pressed in, I usually let the pro's handle that stuff cuz if you go up, you wanna make sure your wheels go up too[]but I've noticed mine stick out a little and I had mine chromed by performance edge.

couple mms, not flush.

JP as stated above the Steering Stem will protrude through the bottom of the Lower Bracket.

For any one removing the Steering Stem (shaft) see the instructions at the bottom of this link:
http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29282

Well looks like I got it right then. The bore has a countersunk area for the circlip. When you press it in it should make contact with the top of the bore and leave you with a few mm of the stem protruding from the bottom. I didn't measure the depth so I wasn't sure how far I needed to pull it through.

-I removed my stem with 2' piece of 1/2"-13x36 threaded rod (coarse), a few washers, a 1&1/4" I.D. galvanized pipe coupler, and a few nuts. All hardware items you can purchase at your local Home Depot or Lowes home center.
-To install the stem you need to add a 8" piece of 1&1/4" ID pipe with threaded ends to your shopping list.
I have about 12.00 into the hardware and can use it for other pulling or pressing functions.

It helps to have a bench vise too, unless you feel like a gorilla!

To remove the stem:
You place 2 nuts on the threaded rod the length of the steering stem + the depth of the coupler and add another 1-2"s. Tighten the nuts together so they won't spin.

Mount the rod into the vise and slide 1 washer onto the nuts, then slide the stem with the lower triple tree on the opposite end of the nuts onto the threaded rod. Slide the coupler onto the bottom of the triple tree install 2-4 large (thick) washers and 2 more smaller ones then thread a nut onto the end and tighten. Once you get the coupler lined up tighten the assembly with a 3/4"-1/2" drive deep socket. What you are doing is pulling the stem through the coupler by tightening the assembly up. I used a breaker bar to get good leverage cause wrenches will only leave you in pain! It really comes out pretty easily once you get cranking on it.


To install the stem:
You reverse the coupler to the other side and add a 8" length of 1&1/4 treaded pipe to the coupler so it clears the top of the stem by the distance you need to pull it back through. I like the threaded coupler because it has a 1/4" wide, flat edge that won't cut into your finish. You can lengthen the assembly by backing out the pipe from the coupler and this will give you the extra room to pull the stem into the tree. (otherwise you'd have to shorten your threaded rod up) Attach your washers and the nut on the bottom, then crank it up until you see a few mm showing on the bottom.

I lubricated the threaded rod so the nut would turn easier. It may gall the threads if you don't spray something like WD-40 on it.

Just curious how you installed the lower bearing & seal?

BTW, where are the photos [?] []

Just because you are a Moderator doesn't mean you can't be chastised ... [^] [] LOL

Didn't believe me Mr. AlanHowdidyoudothat?[][:0][]

Installing the lower bearing and seal is no problemo. I used a 1&1/8 combination wrench and gently tapped it down...
Here's the hardware and a mockup of the R&R of the steering stem.

BTW it took me longer to do this mockup and download pics!


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JP... you have 218 hits on this post so far. Just think of all the guys you have and will help out here with the photo shoot [^]

Actually, i thought the technical brief was very clear but i was curious about the timken brg install.

Neat and cleaver DIY on your part and you know it was done correctly without stressing any parts.

Thanks

Following JPWarriors instructions i was able to remove the steering stem from the lower tree with a little bit of muscle. A large shop vise or impact gun would have been nice 

Using 1/2"-20 Fine ALL-Thread rod made the task much easier using the adjustable wrenches. Enclosing some photos and the BOM:

Bill of Mat'l to pull stem: Approx cost $15.00
1/2"-20 All-Thread Rod-Std length 36"
1-1/4" SCH40 Cast Pipe Coupling
(2) 1/2"-20 Nuts
(2) 7/8" Flat Washers
(1) 5/8" Flat Washer
(3) 1/2" Flat Washer
(1) 1/2" Grade 8 Flat Washer
1/2"-20 Hardened HD Flange Nut

More Detailed Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157608318302507/detail/

View of the Jigged Assy while pulling the steering stem through the lower tree. The bottom brg & seal is removed undamaged with this technique. 

Close-up view of the Jigged Assy while pulling the steering stem through the lower tree into the coupling

Close-up view of the Jigged Assy @ the top tree end using (2) 1/2"-20 nuts & (2) 1/2" washers

 All the tools Req'd for the removal. The bottom brg & seal can be reused!

Close-up of steering stem retaining ring-Large End after removal from bottom tree

 

 Sweet, and nice pics too! Mine were out of focus and too dark. I saw you used fine thread. That's a much better choice for the high torque.

BTW, I returned most all the hardware back and recovered 75% of the cost, so this only ended up costing me approximately 3.00.

 

I don't recall how I removed the bushings but you can apply the same technique on a smaller scale to them but you need to use something that fits close to the OD of the bushings outer sleeve.

JPWARRIOR:

 Sweet, and nice pics too! Mine were out of focus and too dark. I saw you used fine thread. That's a much better choice for the high torque.

BTW, I returned most all the hardware back and recovered 75% of the cost, so this only ended up costing me approximately 3.00.

Shawn .... you've got big cojones to return the merchandise

The 1/2-13 N.C. All-Thd didn't produce enough force on this used tree. I ended up stretching the rod & bending all the std flat washers. When the lower brg was R&R'd by the previous party for what ever reason, the brg wasn't installed squarely initially and created some pick-up on the aluminum steering stem that made it very difficult to initially brake loose. Buying 1st & 2nd generation used parts from forum members or on Ebay can create unexpected challenges when it comes to the condition or fitness of a part IMO.

Since i don't have a big shop vise or impact wrench as stated i was forced to upgrade to the 1/2"-20 thd'd rod a Grade 8 flat washer and the HD machinist flange nut for the pull force.

BTW, thanks for the initial post last year .. This should really be moved to the TECHNICAL FORUM

I'm looking at some 6 degree tress. $800 is a little pricey. That about right? And can a novice tackle the install? Thanks. Ruckus