The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

 Went to the auto store today and got some T-fittings and caps for the throttle bodies. LCV is removed and the T-fittings are installed in the air PSI sensors at the exact same distance from each T-body. I used some string and a ruler.

 Also went to the hardware store and got some 1/8" clear tubing and added some fluid (not telling what kind of fluid I used because it will start an argument). So my anamometer is ready to go. Its a sweet setup. I used packing tape, zipties, velco, and a level. It can be mounted on the wall and taken off just as quick with the velcro.

 I never messed with the screw in the middle of the throttle bodies. I'm not going to either. It still has paint on it from the day she was born and I have never messed with them. I did the wire drag on the  butterflies and I was satisfied. The two screws on the side of the bodies I did mess with. The more I looked at those it appears that they are for idle and lower RPM's. It makes sence when I think about it. Let me explain.

 Have you ever just wanted a sip of water to wet your whistle so you would feel refreshed for a moment or two? Well, thats what those little screws are they allow a certain amount of air to go around the butterflies and into the cylinder. Now, have you ever been so thirsty that you can literaly chugg about 1-2 Liters of room temperature water? Thats what is happening with the throttle in the WOT (wide open throttle). The butterflies are so wide open that the engine does not even care about that little sip or water. Hell, if I was that thirsty  and someone offered me just a little sip of water I would be offended.

 So needless to say Im going to be messing around with those on Sunday. I can tell right now Im going to have to hook it up to the anemometer about a dozen times. Just because the vaccum Hg is even doesn't mean they are allowing the right amount of air to go around the bodies. I need to get the TPS on the laptop at zero and I need to be able to drive it warmed up without her sounding like a shot gun when rolling off the throttle.

 Happy Halloween tonight everyone! Be safe and please do not drive drunk.

 Justin

Great story Justin,     when does the film come out Lol.

Wish mine was that easy to sort.  

Gav.

 Hooked up the anamometer tonight. Those bodies are sensitive! No more would I turn the screw one way then I would have to turn it back. I put 10W-40 synthetic in the anamometer. Finally got the feal for it though. You have to make small adjustments and wait. Then you will see the change. So I got the bodies in sync and took her for a test drive. Made it around a huge block about three times. I think I finally got it.

 TPS position is at a low 2 now. Bike is able to idle at 1,000 perfectly. It can even idle at about 800 without falling off but I put it back to 1k.  I can run down the street and roll off the throttle with very mild poping. Exceleration was good and strong and the 2,500RPM range that started this problem was gone and smooth as silk. The only little problem I have left is that once the bike gets up to temp. and I shut her off and try to start er up again it really takes some finess with the throttle to get her to start again. Im so not worried about it though. I bet the fix is turning the adjustment screws (idle screws, one on each body) about a 1/4 turn one way or the other.

 Hey GAV your right about this sounding like a movie. I was thinking about a Dr.House episode on T.V. as well.

  I don't know what else to say at this point other than thank all of you for the help and patience while reading through the "script" . The reason why I went into such detail is because I  knew this was going to be a big one and I wanted it on the site for others to use later if need be.

 Salute!

  I have enjoyed following your saga. It's been and interesting and informative read. Congrats on getting it back up!

 Well good on ya.  I think we all knew you would win...

Thanks again for the awesome write-up, it will surely help others and was quite entertaining as well.