The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

...nice summary prof...me and gav had along long chat yesterday...and this thread came into the mix...we decided we love ya thinking..and the way you guys go for the next step...it's the pioneering spirit that took your forefathers across unknown problems to survive...[hats off]....we [as in us 2] back here in blighty have chosen the straight forward earth wire connection route and then put it all back as it was...[phew]...i've enjoyed the chuckle from this thread and learnt things..

What a nice thing to say brother, thanks!

tomba:

...nice summary prof...me and gav had along long chat yesterday...and this thread came into the mix...we decided we love ya thinking..and the way you guys go for the next step...it's the pioneering spirit that took your forefathers across unknown problems to survive...[hats off]....we [as in us 2] back here in blighty have chosen the straight forward earth wire connection route and then put it all back as it was...[phew]...i've enjoyed the chuckle from this thread and learnt things..

 

funnily enough this very subject has come up in the euro forum...and your efforts have helped to take that thread along pretty quick...you guys and the forum are the warrior riders best best asset...'long may our friendship live'..as yoda would say...

 A quick question here, I know I'm in late, but here goes anyway.

Does the ECU have any effect after a PClll is installed?

whilst waiting for a guru to 'ride over the hill'...a 'bump' really then...but we've been chatting and it seems we think [don't ya love the royal 'we']...the ecu should be set at the best 'stock settings' ie - the header pipe chrome isn't turning another colour and the plugs are the perfect tan colour...and then the pc3 picks up on those settings...so it's not advised to fiddle with the ecu to say 'zero' it before fitting the PC...if that helps at all - so you might want to try the ecu bump...27/29 wire cut to see the stock settings and move the mixture to suit the pipes and plugs - cheers tom

people are also going the PC5 route slowly.. it seems to make sense for the future and iniitial thoughts are it will retro to the earlier warriors - smaller and takes 5 mintues to install - this is my investigation work, i don't have a PC as yet

The ECU houses the factory fuel map.  The values in the factory map equate to the amount of time the injector is energized (spraying fuel).  The PC3 reads the factory fuel map values and applies the values you have entered in the PC3 fuel map, which can be thought of as percentage values.  A negative value in the PC3 map reduces the energized time (leaner) and a positive value increases energized time (richer).  The PC3 can't do its job without the ECU's fuel map. 

The likely exception to this might be the ECU-Bump values CO1 and CO2 which might affect idle only or might affect the entire rpm range (there are two camps with equally valid but vastly different experiences). 

In either case, the answer to your question is yes, the ECU has effect even after a PC3/PC5 install.  Hope this helps.

jimsnorton:

 A quick question here, I know I'm in late, but here goes anyway.

Does the ECU have any effect after a PClll is installed?

If I were starting out today, I would go to the PC5 no doubt.  It's smaller for sure, leaving a hint more space under the seat.  And even though it has features the Warrior can't use, its very likely the tools will soon become available to use most of its features.  For example, smaller-sized oxygen sensors to fit both header pipes and feed data for the auto-tune feature for both cylinders separately might be just around the corner.  The current oxygen sensors seem too big to hide.  My understanding is the PC5 will work equally well on all years of the Warrior even though the 2002 model uses a slightly different ignition system.  Several members have recently installed the PC5 on various model year bikes, try a search for "PCV" or "PC5".

tomba:

people are also going the PC5 route slowly.. it seems to make sense for the future and iniitial thoughts are it will retro to the earlier warriors - smaller and takes 5 mintues to install - this is my investigation work, i don't have a PC as yet

and over the hill he came....the source of my info......

 Thanx, AZ Warrior, I somehow knew you'd chime in here. Do you have time for another question? I had installed the ECU mod w/switch some time prior to getting my PClll, and had tweaked it a few times. My readings were something like 21 - 19 when I first started to play with it, & even tho I had made changes, none of which were drastic, I never went back & changed anything after my "perfect PClll install". After the PClll was installed, I had it dynoed & went on about my business, and probably 30K+ miles later my bike is still as strong as it ever was. I now have in excess of 78k miles on it. I had the PClll tweaked last year to eliminate most of my backfire issues, which worked. The guy who did my map told me he had learned more about our Warrior in the two years after I had my original map done, and he put my PClll back on the 'puter, and added fuel at the closed throttle positions & that pretty much cleared my backfire issues of the time. Now, however I'm experencing more backfiring, at different times. In fact it's becoming somewhat perminent. The backfires arent really loud just 'pops', but they are fairly consistent. Sometimes when cracking the throttle, and sometimes closing it.I have a CA model, and have your BAK & AIS blockoff, & propipe w/comp baffle & chrome end cap. Now the question... Do you think any of the CA ad-ons may be causing these new backfire issues? I've never had my bike to the shop since my initial check-up @ 12K miles when I took delivery. Sorry for being so long winded.

The California charcoal cannister and hoses came off with your -AIS and BAK install, right?  I believe that's the only Cali-adder on the Warrior is that right?

When you are riding it they way its made to be ridden (hard and fast) these big cube V2's have some bits of backfiring in about the spots you mention.  Its doubtful your dynotuned custom map has changed on its own accord, its more likely change of seasons, colder more dense air, those sorts of things.  If mine didn't pop a little on hard decel or throttle blip-blip-blip I'd worry!

Still, if you suspect last year's tweak on the dynotuner produced a less effective map, maybe save the new map to disk then load the prior map awhile and see what you think?

jimsnorton:

Now, however I'm experencing more backfiring, at different times. In fact it's becoming somewhat perminent. The backfires arent really loud just 'pops', but they are fairly consistent. Sometimes when cracking the throttle, and sometimes closing it. 

Now the question... Do you think any of the CA ad-ons may be causing these new backfire issues?

A 20a on-on switch is fine.  The slightly larger wire couldn't affect resistance much.  Either the switch is wired wrong, or the ground wire isn't cleanly grounded, or the bump procedure isn't being followed correctly?

gillthadevildog:

i tried this with a 20amp switch and a short thick guage wire for ground and there was too much resistance to allow the bump. what did i do wrong?

did you try switching it the other way? (not to be a smartass or anything!)

yes i did

What wire did you put in the middle contact of the switch, #27 or #29 (should be #29) and did you visually re-verify at the ECU plug end that its wire #29?

You already know that when the toggle bat is switched to the 'north' the 'south' contact is energized, so that can't be it.  If you have #29 on the center terminal, then it just sounds like you have the #27 wire and the ground wire reversed is all.