The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Some (not elegant) solution for the painting issues. I found this old post, into a HD forum:
I use to paint bikes and never ran into this problem, but have seen it on other peoples bikes. One problem is the wrong type of primer (I use epoxy) and painting all the way to the filler spout. I use a plug to keep paint out of the filler area, so it leaves a ring of metal showing about 1/4" from the hole. This won't be seen with a normal cap on and the pump nozel won't chip the paint at fill up. You can have a small flame put around the cap areas to highlight the art work. But prep the areas and use 2 part epoxy. You can't get the stuff to come off after a week, even with lacquer thinner.

Some (not elegant) solution for the painting issues. I found this old post, into a HD forum:
I use to paint bikes and never ran into this problem, but have seen it on other peoples bikes. One problem is the wrong type of primer (I use epoxy) and painting all the way to the filler spout. I use a plug to keep paint out of the filler area, so it leaves a ring of metal showing about 1/4" from the hole. This won't be seen with a normal cap on and the pump nozel won't chip the paint at fill up. You can have a small flame put around the cap areas to highlight the art work. But prep the areas and use 2 part epoxy. You can't get the stuff to come off after a week, even with lacquer thinner.

here is the method I've been using for years Teck. In picture "A", I paint to the outer edge of the rim, then seal with chemical resistant sealer. this way won't give you the look you want for a flush fitting cap. Your HD forum statement sounds like it's for a cap which sits proud to cover the ring.

Picture "B" . I prime down to line "1", then basecoat to line "2", then lacquer to line "3", then seal to line "4". Your painter will take a few minutes each time to do this right. Save him a lot of headaches in the future and you get the look you need with peace of mind at the pumps. Another note , don't paint too heavy in there or the cap will not open or close.

Nice Gav! Thanks for the instructions.

I see, Gav. So it is all about how you prime your area? I had no idea... Thanks a lot for taking to the time to explain it well.
If the painter follows similar instructions, the paint will not flake, right?

Jared replied with details about the gas cap:
I'm not sure what size Harley uses but the outside diameter of the bong is 2 1/4", the inside diameter is 2 1/8".

I sent him a reply and asked him if he could send me a closeup picture of the actual cap/bong being welded.

Please don't dictate to your painter Teck, lol., this is just the way which has worked for me throughout the years. There has always been a problem with petrol & vapour bubbling up the paint, even at the tap, and on Harleys, at the cross-over pipe ends.

Remember, the weakest link to the whole chain of painting is the base coat (colour coat). It can even come off with some
panel wipe at times. It is also the only stage which has no hardener/activator, it's just air-dry material.

Baclay9. thanks, and for the input about the caps, you are right on all counts, but I have to deal with situations when the customer
wants to use the caps you don't like. Can be a right pain in the butt sometimes.
All we can do is try our best in this Custom business.

Gav.

Teck,

I would bet that they are using the kind that I don't like. Those are the ones that most everyone uses because they are the most custom looking. I still don't think they are the best choice for longevity though. I think Gav will agree with me as well. I know you give up a little with the Harley type bung and screw in pop up gas cap but I think it will be better in the long run.

You guessed right, Brandon. Jared confirmed the cap design you mentioned:



Gav or Brandon, can you let me know if there are any cap paint savers that will fit into the above bong? After all, it will be OK to have both worlds.., with a paint saver installed.
I did some research about this model. It is a pop-up vented gas cap assembly made of steel construction by PRO-ONE. Drag Specialties sell it in their Fatbook, using the same part number (#301170). The bung is made of standard steel. PRO-ONE replaced the previous model with an improved one (!? nothing official, just hearsay). As Brandon confirmed, the main issue they previously had was getting stuck and virtually being impossible to be removed without a lot of effort. Apparently, this issue was solved with a better rubber being used. However, the trick to have the the cap working properly always is put a light film of lithium grease on the rubber and moving parts. That will take care of the rubber sticking to the metal (again, hearsay). Still, we have to deal with the vented gas fumes flaking the paint. Therefor, if I get a paint saver, it will solve the problem.

Just for reference here is a pic of the pop-up I showed you previously inslalled in a tank with a Harley type bung. I think it is a pretty good comprimise. This is the one I will most likely use. Plus with a Harley bung you will have the most choices of different caps if you find something you like better.

By claypool782 at 2009-08-18

Ya, I think this is the best route, Brandon. Can you find a bigger picture how it looks on the tank? I will let Jared know.
Never mind, I found a YouTube video that shows the install of your model.

Jared emailed me again and corrected the details on the pop-up cap. They are actually using a pop-up gas cap made by Stampede (at least, that is the one they plan to install for my gas tank):
This paintable builders’ cap has a leak-proof vent and all Stainless Steel construction. The weld-in bung is 2 1/4" diameter and mounts perfectly flush with surrounding tank.



They sell for $179 a pop.

This is all I could find right off hand. If I find a better one I will edit it in for you.

By claypool782 at 2009-08-18

By claypool782 at 2009-08-18

 

You'll want the vented bung as discussed earlier and you want to make sure you get the right hand gas cap. They are the vented ones.

If you go to Ebay and type "harley gas cap" you will get alot of options.

The first 2 pics are tanks painted with pop-up caps. No probs so far Teck and Brandon.

This pic is with a wide paint guard.

This one is a sample pic with a painted flush cap. As you can see the painter has only painted the top of the cap, not the grip and the paint is too high up the wall for my likeing. Looks like there is no sealer either.

Scratches to the paint round the cap are enevitable with gloves or bare fingers when re-fueling. The paint guard I think too would be a safer option Teck.

Guys, I need your expert advice on the tank. BMS modified the tank but to me it looks like they made too short the metal sheet, so the stretch does not follow the proper tank lines, like in the original picture they showed me. Is this simply a visual issue? Will the tank look like in the original picture, once painted? To me, it looks really short... you can see the very pronounced angle between the tank and the added metal sheet.

Look how elegant the tank lines are in the original picture BMS sent me (if you know who owns this Warrior, please let me know):



Now, this is the modified tank:




If I compare it to the original picture side by side, it looks like the stretched point is shorter:



This is how I would see it properly stretched, looking like the original work done by BMS:




Am I crazy? Please give me your professional opinion. I'm no welder or painter so I cannot say there is something wrong, unless you confirm the stretch was (not) properly done. Right now, the tank is at the BMS shop, awaiting to have the seal done on it. Thanks a lot for your help.

I agree with you.  Those angles at the rear are just wrong.

Thanks, I thought for a moment that I'm crazy. I will wait a little more until the guys post more details on what should I do. I already emailed the pictures you see above to Jared and asked him the same question. My concern is that the weld is already performed on the paper thin aluminium tank. Presuming that everyone agrees I'm correct, removing the current sheet and work a new one might damage really bad the tank. So what is the best solution?

Thank you guys for helping me out with your advice.