Alan - that is a pic I posted when I installed my new clutch cable. The first one came with a straight casing on that end which I was told would work despite the originals being an angled end. I found that unacceptable and returned it for one which looked like the original shape. After installing that, the plastic sheathing still came off as pictured. I do not think it was b/c of overtightening nor was it misaligned as I was careful to watch for those. I was also told this was quite common. Not sure what you are trying to impy - Am I missing something here? BTW, I have had zero problems since this install with the clutch cable like this, I just trimmed the rest of the plastic inner sleeve off in that area....
here is the entire response to the plastic inner sleeve phenomena in the pic....
quote:
Originally posted by AlanH
mdfdwarrior...
it looks/sounds like the cable coating is rubbing the inside diameter
of the stepped ferrule/adapter that fits into the cable support bracket.
You should contact the vendor and or Barnett directly as you have no control over the tolerances IMO.
My
Barnett cable is just over 2-yrs old and doesn't have any visible
coating on the stainless inner cable as yours so it needs to be lubed!
If it was coated i can't remember [
]
thanx
Alan - yeah the new Barnett premiums come w/ a plastic coated inner
sleeve. I sprayed some lube down the entire cable in between the
plastic inner sleeve and the outer casing and they are slick as hell
now.
I suspect the reason for this issue is because the new
Barnett cable has an outer case sleeving that is thicker than the stock
oem. This causes the cable to not be as flexible as stock in the turns
and bends it is required to make in order to achieve the same angle of
movement at the bottom towards the clutch bracket arm.
I ended
up adjusting this angle of the clutch bracket arm from the 2 o'clock
position to more like a 1 o'clock. This repositioned the cable for a
straighter movement. I also ended up shaving the plastic inner sleeve
in that area (everything outside of the outer casing sleeve to the
nipple of the clutch bracket arm, about an inch worth of the plastic
inner casing) and it is much smoother now. The inner plastic sleeve
only acts as a slick surface in between the cable itself and the outer
casing sleeve. The inner plastic sleeve really serves no purpose for
the one inch or so length of area past the outer sleeving to the
nipple.
AlanH: Brian Karr:
I just took off my old 6.5" risers to send them in to be re-chromed and installed a set of 5.5" risers. What has happened is when I am rolling in 2nd-4th gears and roll the throttle back hard my RPM's skyrocket and then you can feel, at least to me, clutch slipping then it grabs and you take off. The clutch has always been hard to operate but now it is just a little harder. There is NO play in the lever, meaning when you touch the lever it starts the high rev's. I have checked the cable to make sure it is not pinched in anyway. CAN SOMEONE HELP I WANT THE TAKE OFF SPEED AGAIN!!
Brian Karr .... if the slipping was a result of swapping over risers i would suspect that the small swaged cable end at the clutch case has become dislodged in the pull-lever retainer causing a false over adjustment resulting in slipping.
A simple inspection of the terminated connection is the Tell-Tale ... I've seen this occurence personally on others bikes and also in the field.
If the cable end is dislodged you'll need to slacken it and reposition the swaged end properly in the pivot bracket and then readjust the cable 
Thom .... do you recognize this photo 
