The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Right now I have the fast blinking phenomenon with 4 halogen lights (20 watts each).
I'm ordering the LED replacement bulbs and I would like to build my own load equalizer that does not heat like the Kuryakyn ones.
If you move to a full LED solution, you will encounter the following issues (yes, they are different):
- fast blinking
- solenoid syndrome (aka Click of Death or COD)

So, let's do the math: Watts = Volts x Amps, then Amps = Watts / Volts
2 x front stock signal = 46 Watts (23 Watts each)
OK, so applying the formula (Amps = 46w / 12v), we know that both front signals draw 3.83 Amps.
Now, we need to calculate the resistor value, using the Ohm law: Ohms = Volts / Amps
Applying the formula (Ohms = 12v / 3.83a), we know that we need a resistor with 3.13 Ohms as value.

The final result: We need a 3 Ohms resistor that can handle 46 Watts.

In my case, I will have front and rear LED's and I plan to don't have any solenoid syndrome issues.
A reminder for that issue: it can be corrected in a location where you can pickup the Blue running light wire and Ground.
- Headlight Housing - front running lights snap connectors
- Under the ECU - rear fender harness 5-pin connector
- Rear Taillight - license light snap connectors

That means: use those locations to install the load equalizers.

To address the solenoid syndrome, it is recommended to use a 1K 10 watt aluminum cased resistor.

Now that we have all info clear, here it is the 100$ question: What did you used as load EQ on your 4 LED blinkers setup?
I'm thinking to get few Kuryakyn load EQ's (4810). But what if I need to use more then 2 (1 front and 1 rear)... how do I install it? I mean, right now with 4 halogen lights + RTB I have the blinking issue. That is because the tail light is gone, replaced with an LED one.

I remember that Alan fabricated some custom part (from Autozone) that avoided heat, then he dumped everything in favor of a Signal Dynamics dual load EQ.

Maybe its good that only one front signal bulb illuminates at a time . . .

You should only need one 2 amp equalizer for the front turns and one for the rear turns.(2 total) Then you will need a solution for the COD. As you are aware there are many.

I have no front turn signals and integrated rears. I have one 2 amp EQ in the headlight bucket and another one wired in under the rear fender for the rear blinkers.

I used Alan's automotive type relay to correct the COD.

Floren, i suggest you check your GRND connections on the halogen lights because that's the fast blink problem. If they came with only 1-hot wire you'll need to add an additional wire that is bonded to the halogen lamp body and Grnd to the existing wiring!

TECK:

I remember that Alan fabricated some custom part (from Autozone) that avoided heat, then he dumped everything in favor of a Signal Dynamics dual load EQ.

• You have the story A$$ Backward & i don't shop at Autozone  .. all electronics are from Newark or Mouser

This is what i have been using for the past 2-yrs since running LEDs frt/rear: Dual Load Equalizer - 30w 2.8 ohm - Frt & Rr LED's

This is good advice as authored by Brandon 

baclay9:

You should only need one 2 amp equalizer for the front turns and one for the rear turns.(2 total) Then you will need a solution for the COD. As you are aware there are many.

• 2 - Kuryakyn 4810 is all you require

I have no front turn signals and integrated rears. I have one 2 amp EQ in the headlight bucket and another one wired in under the rear fender for the rear blinkers.

I used Alan's automotive type relay to correct the COD.

Hi Alan,

You are right, it was Mouser Electronics.
I already did that. I replaced the entire Kuryakyn cheap wiring with industrial grade insulated wiring, so I don't have any electrical issues in the long term. Because the Kuryakyn bullets I have in front and read came with ground attached to the external case, I removed the attached wire and soldered everything to the new quality electrical cable.

I would like to get something that does not heat quickly. Does the automotive part heats a little or a lot? Like it is a little warm to the touch. I will have the rear signals as running lights, so I need something that will not melt in one hour...

I am wrong quite often,LOL, but you wont need any equalizers hooked up to the rear running light wire. They are LED from the factory. They turn sig wires are the only thing that will need equalizers. Unless there is something in your setup I don't understand.

Ya, unfortunatelly, you do.

I think I will go with Alan's solution, if it requires only one load EQ to be fabricated. It is the most elegant and also allows me to take care of front and rear blinkers in the same time. Alan, all I need to know is what wiring locations you actually used for your 2 separate components:
1. the custom fabricated load EQ
2. the COD resistor

Thanks.

Tech, I just want to point out your drawing shows the load eq in parallel with V+ for the lights.  As shown, both lights will come on if power is applied to either side. 

TECK:

Ya, unfortunatelly, you do.

 

I don't understand what you mean by this. Are you saying I am not understanding the problem. If this is the case please elaborate. I am always willing to learn something new. From what I gather you are running your rear lights as run/brake/turn. You didn't want to use the 4810's because you thought they would be too hot being on all the time. What I was saying is they wouldn't be on all the time because they would only be activated with the blinkers. The rear running light wire would not require them. I just dont understand why you would put forth the effort of fabricating a EQ (especially when space is an issue) when there are small EQ's on the market that are adequate for very little money.  Please enlighten me.

OldMan:

Tech, I just want to point out your drawing shows the load eq in parallel with V+ for the lights.  As shown, both lights will come on if power is applied to either side. 

... the LEQ shown is dual circuit has 2-diodes that prevent feed-back through the T/S wiring and the use of 1-resistor if it's a Kuryakyn 4810  ... the diode acts as a check valve allowing current to flow pos to neg only, hence no feed-back 

Here's an example under construction: (2) 15w 5.6 ohm resistors wired in parallel with (2) NTE5801 diodes connected to the turn signal lights (TS). The TS have a 50% duty cycle (ON/OFF) so the 30w 2.8 ohm LEQ is more than ample for the req'd load to function properly with the Denso flasher.

More photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626135/

TECK:

Hi Alan,

You are right, it was Mouser Electronics.
I already did that. I replaced the entire Kuryakyn cheap wiring with industrial grade insulated wiring, so I don't have any electrical issues in the long term. Because the Kuryakyn bullets I have in front and read came with ground attached to the external case, I removed the attached wire and soldered everything to the new quality electrical cable.

• If that's the case then your current qty 4 - 20w halogen signal lighting shouldn't be flashing fast if wired properly unless you have something else wired into the T/S circuit that isn't being disclosed!
• I've used the Halogen lighting with load sensitive thermal flashers on other bikes without a problem!
• I would suggest you post a photo of your install

I would like to get something that does not heat quickly. Does the automotive part heats a little or a lot? Like it is a little warm to the touch. I will have the rear signals as running lights, so I need something that will not melt in one hour...

• The last time i purchased Kuryakyn halogen silver bullets they came with 2-sets of GLASS i repeat GLASS lens, red & amber, so they don't melt! 

TECK:

Ya, unfortunatelly, you do.

Alan, all I need to know is what wiring locations you actually used for your 2 separate components:
1. the custom fabricated load EQ
2. the COD resistor
Thanks.

Both devices sit under the seat as shown in these threads:

• Spliced Connections for LEQ & COD (Click of Death)
• Running Light Resistor & Relay

AlanH:

 ... the LEQ shown is dual circuit has 2-diodes that prevent feed-back through the T/S wiring and the use of 1-resistor if it's a Kuryakyn 4810 

I didn't realize there were diodes involved.  From the prior discussion I thought he was trying to do it just with resistors.  I used to work as an ET and even did some design work.  I know what the diodes do and how.  Just didn't know they were in there.  Thanks for the clarification.

AlanH:

Both devices sit under the seat as shown in these threads:

• Spliced Connections for LEQ & COD (Click of Death)
• Running Light Resistor & Relay

Thanks, Alan. That was exactly what I needed. Out of curiosity, what made you switch from the Signal Dynamics dual load EQ to your custom made product?



Also, just to make sure I don't make any mistakes, the 1K 10 watt aluminum cased resistor taps into this blue wire?



I will take some screenshots soon, to highlight how the new wiring was done, especially with the new fender and license plate lights.
Right now, the new fender built from scratch will be soon used for barbecue purposes, due to it's bad quality built. I brought today my bike to Montreal Choppers shop and they will build a custom fender for my Warrior.

TECK:

Thanks, Alan. That was exactly what I needed. Out of curiosity, what made you switch from the Signal Dynamics dual load EQ to your custom made product?

• I originally purchased the Kuryakyn 4807 which is advertised as a 4 amp device which was bogus
• Read this: LEQ Kuryakyn 4807 & 4810
• Then i contacted SDC regarding their LEQ product and specifications but they wouldn't divulge the load ratings so i went to their distributor, NoPork, which is close to my house and picked up 1-unit with the understanding that only 1 device was req'd for frt & rear
• 1 device was not adequate and in fact only drew approx 1.8 amps when connected directly across a car battery. Less than a Kury 4810. The beauty of the SDC device is that it's encapsulated within an aluminum finned heat-sink which is 1st class.
• The area i had allocated for the LEQ wouldn't acomodate 2-SDC devices.
• That being the case i decided to build my own LEQ and purchased the components from Mouser as well as a sealed relay to prevent the COD. My total landed cost was approx $13.50

Also, just to make sure I don't make any mistakes, the 1K 10 watt aluminum cased resistor taps into this blue wire?

• Yes it does (Blue running light wire) as well as the Grnd.
• As you are aware i use a sealed Relay as shown above with a 90 ohm coil that produces 1.6w @ 12v
• I WOULD SUGGEST YOU USE A 100 ohm 10 watt resistor as the 1K device is to high a resistance IMO and not reliable
• At 14.8v it will produce 2.2w which is way under it's capacity and equivalent to my relay and also a small instrument bulb that ranges between 2-3watt
• The NTE # 10WM110 or equivalent
• http://www.nteinc.com/resistor_web/pdf/5w_10w_alum.pdf

 Have your engine running when testing the flasher blink rate. The output voltage is higher and the lighting devices will produce more watts and draw more amps making them slow down if a marginal flash situation.

I will take some screenshots soon, to highlight how the new wiring was done, especially with the new fender and license plate lights.
Right now, the new fender built from scratch will be soon used for barbecue purposes, due to it's bad quality built. I brought today my bike to Montreal Choppers shop and they will build a custom fender for my Warrior.