The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

 I'm sorry if these questions are redundant...I tried reading previous posts for my answers... My clutch is going out and after some reading I'm planning on going with the barnett spring conversion thing.  I guess I don't quite understand how these kinda clutches work though.  So I still buy the (is it 9?) oem friction plates?  And nothing on the bike needs to be machined/turned or anything? And then with the spring conversion I'm gonna wanna get a stronger clutch cable right?  Thanks for your answers and time.  I've got a 2005 stock Warrior at this point...

How many miles on the bike? have you abused it? Maybe you just need to adjust the clutch.

 

unless downtime is an issue, i would hold off on the friction plates.  I had an 02 warrior with the 108 kit and cams, pushing close to 130 ft/lbs at the tire. my clutch started slipping around 28,000 miles.  i replaced the whole thing friction,steels, and spring with a V-Max clutch spring, (it is a little thicker than stock, but not quite the speedstar spring, price nor thickness ).  turned out the plates friction and steels were just fine. one fiber plate measured .002 wear compared to the new ones. it was the clutch spring that had got weak.  If I had it to do over, I would have just got the barrnets spring conversion.

TIPS FOR CHANGE

1a. there are a couple of half plates you can switch out for full plates.

1b. if you can lean the bike over, you can change the clutch without draining the oil.

2.  the wire ring in the back of the basket acts like a "marcel spring" (google it). basically it keeps clutch chatter down, so re-install it.

3.  the clutch hub and basket are "indexed" meaning they go back together "1 way"  match up the arrows 

4.  If my memory serves me right, the cluch hub bolts are in INCH POUNDS, not FT/LBS. so dont over tighten them.

5. if you insist on getting new plates, soak the fiber ones in oil overnight. a couple of aluminum pie plates serve this purpose well

6. before you do ANY of this, make sure your clutch cable has enough slack, and is not binding. you should have a little if not a lot of slop on the clutch lever.

I raped my bike for 30,000 miles before I did the clutch, even then, it was just a weak diaphragm spring. they do get weak over time.

You don't necessarily need a stronger clutch for a stock bike. The barnett clutch spring conversion kit comes with a standard set of springs (gold) should be more than sufficient for you. If you just want the clutch to be harder to pull, you can order a stiffer spring set (red or green) for the barnett kit. Alternatively, you can just replace the friction plates and leave your stock spring in. I put the gold springs in mine and I have the 110" big bore kit. I don't believe mine is slipping at all.

FYI, my clutch started slipping shortly after I had my recall work done. I took it to a different shop to replace the clutch and they found that it had been reassembled incorrectly, with two pairs of the friction plates adjacent to each other. Not that there are any incompetent mechanics or shops out there, but you might check that when you take it apart. There was nothing wrong with my friction plates.....

By the way, there are 9 friction plates total (6 of one kind and 3 of another) in case you need to replace them.

 

 Thanks everyone for your fast replies... I have about 30000 miles on the bike.  There were 27 something thousand when I bought it in february.  I like getting on the gas alot and I weigh about 280lbs.  The bike is currently stock but I'm hoping to change that if/when some money comes in so I was kinda thinking about doin the supporting mods first (if they need replacing, replacing them with stuff that'll hold up when the bike gets more power).  Under heavy acceleration it'll slip when I shift into 2nd gear, and then also when I shift into 3 gear.   ridingrules, I actually did just get the recall work done... The mechanic that did it told me that my clutch was gonna need to be replaced soon... I'm trying hard to remember if it slipped before I took it in... I wanna say it did slip a little bit, just not as bad...

 So if I go with the barnett clutch spring conversion kit what exactly will it do to the shifting?  Like I said before, I'm not too familiar with motorcycle clutches, actually even how they work... Thanks again

sorry to hijack this thread but I do have a question pertaining to the barnetts conversion.  I am currently in the process of installing the barnetts kit and replacing my CPS with the recall kit.  

My question is that i see on the stock plate where the arrows line up for indexing but i dont see anywhere on the barnett plate where there is an arrow or any place to index it to.  does the barnett plate need to be indexed?  if so how?

thanks

Here is my input.

I installed the Barnett SR2 conversion with green springs. Bought it from Phats and they took forever.

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SR%2D2

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=MT-23-6

 

I replaced the half plates "#23" with two full plates

I removed everything and layed it out in order. Pay attention to how the plates are machined. The edge is different on each side. I don't remember which side is which, just put it together the way it came apart.

Carefull with the bolts that hold the assembly in place. If you over torque them they will snap. I used a little blue loctite.

Part numbers listed below. I know this isn't step by step but it really isn't a big deal. Just lay it out as it comes apart and put it back together the same way replacing the half plates with fulls.

8ea - 26H-16307-01-00
7ea - 26H-16324-00-00

Unlike WannaB I am of the opinion that the steels and fiber plates are cheap so swap them out while you have it apart.

Hope this helps

SmaShitUp(mike7202):

sorry to hijack this thread but I do have a question pertaining to the barnetts conversion.  I am currently in the process of installing the barnetts kit and replacing my CPS with the recall kit.  

My question is that i see on the stock plate where the arrows line up for indexing but i dont see anywhere on the barnett plate where there is an arrow or any place to index it to.  does the barnett plate need to be indexed? 

•  ... yes the plate needs to be indexed although there are no markings!

 if so how?

• The instruction sheet included w/ the Barnett plate describes the HOW TO:
• Just clock the pressure plate w/o the last friction disc in place and it will be obvious when it engages the teeth in the Clutch Boss. If i'm not mistaken it will then also fit 180 deg about too ... Match mark the plate & boss and finish installing the disc etc .....
• Here's some hosted photos of my install: CPS Recall & Barnett SR-2 Pressure Plate

thanks

Warrior_84 & SmaShitUp(mike7202) .... here's some helpful threads that discuss the install as well as the sheared edge of the plate and elimination of the 1/2 friction disc and cushion springs etc.

• Barnett Clutch Spring Conv's SR-2 Rev A – UPDATED
• Clutch plate replacement pointers - Recommended Reading
• Best Clutch Pack ?

Thanks for the help Alan 

Im glad you chimed in because the instruction sheet that came with my Barnett plate just says something to the effect of your clutch MAY need to be indexed and to do so if needed.

 Thanks again for all the info!  A question (probably a very stupid question) on that diagram with the numbered parts, what is 31?  And another one, what is the benefit of going with the full friction plates as opposed to halves?  It seems like some of the people on those different threads use the halves and then some don't...

PS. Where's the cheapest/best place to order all the plates and stuff from?

WannaB:

2.  the wire ring in the back of the basket acts like a "marcel spring" (google it). basically it keeps clutch chatter down, so re-install it.

The round wire circlip retains the clutch damper assy in the clutch boss and shouldn't need to be serviced at 30,000 miles. I suggest you download the early Yamaha Factory Manual here: http://www.paulmilner.com/yamaha/handbuch/warrior_service.pdf  and proceed to Chapter & pages 5-59 through 5-61 for a full description and proper assembly drawing of the clutch stack.

• The parts Fiche break down shown below in JamesD reply is not correct and items 31 are the Marcel Springs (cushion spring) that fit inside the 2-half disc (23) and between the steel plates to cushion the stock assy

If you read my earlier response and referenced bullet point Barnett Clutch Spring Conv's SR-2 Rev A – UPDATED you will see the parts that i replaced at 33,000 miles and other comments.

Unless your bike was blatantly abused by the previous owner I suspect that your slipping problem is attributed to a worn diaphragm spring only and can be resolved by upgrading to the Barnett SR-2 plate. You should inspect the components before ordering the friction parts IMO.

Warrior_84:

 Thanks again for all the info!  A question (probably a very stupid question) on that diagram with the numbered parts, what is 31?

• Item 31 noted above but wouldn't be used if you swap over to the 2-full plates as the springs won't fit inside the full disc

 And another one, what is the benefit of going with the full friction plates as opposed to halves?  It seems like some of the people on those different threads use the halves and then some don't...

• Less slippage for instant lock-up on the higher performance upgraded engines. I would suggest you stick with the Yamaha engineered stacked assy since the Barnett plate with the std Gold spring is a high performance upgrade IMO.

PS. Where's the cheapest/best place to order all the plates and stuff from?

• Probably here: http://www.motorsportssuperstore.com/default.asp
  

EDITED: Here's a HOW TO presented by REDHORSE... it's the stock clutch assembly: Stock Clutch Install SlideShow by Redhorse

ridingrules:

Alternatively, you can just replace the friction plates and leave your stock spring in. I put the gold springs in mine and I have the 110" big bore kit. I don't believe mine is slipping at all.

I installed the red springs, for my Barnett SR-2. They are the only springs that will properly avoid slipping, the green ones will still slip. I had the chance to talk to several mechanics, this week. Honestly, I was not sure that it was a good decision to go with red when Alan questioned my decision. After talking to other old school guys, they all confirmed red springs is the way to go.

This is coming from a trusted mechanic:
"I always go with the red springs because, I've slipped clutches with the gold springs, I've slipped clutches with the green springs too, the only ones that have always got the job done were the red springs. If your going to spend the money and take the time to put a race clutch in, you should set it up right the first time, or don't bother doing it."

It is true when some of fellow warriors said: "Once you go red, you never go back." It is also a myth that red springs are insanely hard. A regular guy can handle them very well, unless he is a pencil boy with hands designed to browse the Internet only. (that was an ironic expression from one of the mechanics, knowing that I work in an office on my daily job, hehe).

AlanH:

You should inspect the components before ordering the friction parts IMO.

Alan is right, as usual. From my small experience, the plates get used rapidly if you are a racer, don't bleep the throttle, etc. Have them measured by your garage guy, he will be able to tell you if they need to be replaced. The default thickness is 0.114~0.122, from the manual. The plates should last you 50,000 miles.

I did not even bothered to measure the plates, the bike has 6000 miles only. Here is what it looks like, on my bike:

TECK .... my answer to your response here is that the use of the heavier springs was a band-aid repair for the Barnett clutch plate that wasn't machined properly for the stack height of the stock Yamaha assy as discussed in detail and writen-up by Frankenstein and hosted on StarVmax. Suggest you read the referenced thread shown below.

• Barnett Clutch Spring Conv's SR-2 Rev A - UPDATED

The Barnett uses 6-coil springs that have a linear rate so that the clutch lever forces increase as the lever approaches the grip. Therefore, there will be more effort disengaging the clutch as you increase the spring rates from Gold, Blue to Red

The modulation of the clutch with the Barnett plate is decidedly better

I suspect that Dice has an earlier plate but i've been wrong before

Alan, if my memory is good... Barnett addressed this issue on April 2007.
All SR-2 with same fabrication date or later have been machined, based on Oliver's observations. I talked to a mechanic who installed several SR-2's and he confirmed that the red springs are the best choice to go, for a properly machined SR-2. See the quote I made into previous post. After more reading into forums, it looks like all users who went to red springs are very satisfied as the clutch does not slip anymore. Honestly, I went with the red springs because I read into forums they are best for a 240+ tire.

Now, I realize what great decision I made to stick with red.

TECK:

Alan, if my memory is good... Barnett addressed this issue on April 2007.
All SR-2 with same fabrication date or later have been machined, based on Oliver's observations. I talked to a mechanic who installed several SR-2's and he confirmed that the red springs are the best choice to go, for a properly machined SR-2. See the quote I made into previous post. After more reading into forums, it looks like all users who went to red springs are very satisfied as the clutch does not slip anymore. Honestly, I went with the red springs because I read into forums they are best for a 240+ tire.

Now, I realize what great decision I made to stick with red.

As I said earlier, mine's not slipping with the gold springs, and those are the ones that came with the kit. If you put them in and find that they are slipping, buy the red springs and it's an easy change-out next time you change the oil in your bike....