1. Cut the clamp off the stock "water heater".
2. Get an exhaust adaptor at auto store- I can't remember what size adaptor (made up #'s on the illustration) so once you cut the end off the "water heater" take that little piece with you to the store to find the right size adaptor. I couldn't find an adaptor that would be small enough to match up to the size of the clamp off the water heater and yet be large enough to fit a 2.5" tip. I know my exhaust tip was like an 1/8" larger than the adaptor so was only able to weld about half way around but plenty strong.
3. Buy a 2.5" exhaust tip. I went with the 2.5" because it follows the contour of the heat shield and doesn't look homemade. Pick out whatever tip you like, I might even change mine and get one that has a curve for a turn down.....
4. Cut the small end off adaptor- I had too so all the welds and adaptor would fit behind the heat shield. Otherwise the whole thing would be too long.
5. First weld the tip to the adaptor. (overlapping tip onto adaptor).
6. Tack weld the adaptor (with tip welded on) to the clamp. I did it this way so I could slide it all on and properly adjust the spacing between the tip and the heat shield.
7. Once it's fitted, slide it off and weld it up. (do not weld it consistantly around for it will warp. Just weld a little here and a little there until it's complete).
This was a chrome tip that I sanded down and painted with 1700 degree header paint. Follow the directions on the can to "bake" the paint on. I haven't had a problem with it pealing so far. It does have a couple chips in the tip though (dropped allen wrench on it a couple times taking off the rear pegs). This is VERY sturdy and does not vibrate at all. I've racked up a couple thousand miles with this with no problems. If you have any questions just give me shout.
P.S. I only bumped my ECU +3 and once I installed the AIS block off, I rarely have a backfire
