Welcome everyone to the next installment of wacky DIY mods from the guy who brought you the "Invisible Rear Caliper Mod," "The Cyclops Headlight Mod," and the "Hop-over brake line mod!" ! Today we'll be talking exhaust. I've gotten so many offers to build exhausts for people but just don't have the time. Today, someone asked me how I did it so I thought I'd blast it out on the forums here to help more than a few out. This one is not for the noob but if you got the time (like you snowed-in Right-Coasters) I've found it's the most rewarding mod I've done. People just can't believe that I, a skinny, west coast, former golf and tennis teaching pro (yes, you heard it here, those are my skeltons)) could build my own exhaust. Of all the things on my bike this is the one I get asked about the most. So here it is. NOTE: I take no responsibility here for any injuries, hurt feelings, or messed up bikes. If you screw up, have a beer, rub some dirt on it, take a salt tablet, and get back to work!
Note: these are aestheic pipes only. They are not tuned performance pipes. You will loose a bit of bottom end but the top end will be fine. They are solely for looks really but don't kill performance totally. I now use the Samson Shorty PCIII map and it seems to work fine.
TOOLS NEEDED:
Chop saw or bandsaw- cutting tube
Welder or Frelder (that's a Friend with Welder)
Drill- Baffle Installation
Rubber Mallet- for hitting stuff.
Normal metric wrenches and tools (HInt, if you don't have these and don't work on your Warrior with these, you probably shouldn't be doing this; but I don't judge either))
Third grade education- see macaroni reference below
Here's what you do:
1. Either dumpster dive an exhaust shop for some 2.5 in tubing bends and straights or buy it off Jegs, Basani etc (Basani is out by me and I was in their dumpster three times :)) Also try and find some baffles while you're in there, you'll need them. :) Or buy them. I love free stuff personally.
2. Get the main outer flange from your stock headers or get a matching flange for both pipes from a supplier. I cut mine off.
3. Optional: Get out the inner pipes that are 1 3/4 dia from the stock exhaust. I used the first 6-8 inches (or more if possible) of these inside the 2.5 in tube as the inner header. Use your judgement to determine the length of this inner pipe cause I'm too lazy to go dissamble to check. :) This will hold compression coming off the head and keep some bottom end. You can pass up this step if you wish though.
NOTE: Removing the front header over and over. You'll be doing this alot to determine fit and it's easy to get metal shavings built up and strip the studs a bit. A small amount of electrical tape might help but ust remember to remove it before starting so it doesn't melt into the treads.
Macaroni Time! If you don't know that I mean here, just get flash back to the old macaroni necklace in kindergarten or raid your pantry for some and start assembling and you'll know what I mean. :) Also, you can refer to just about any American Chopper episode for the old macaroni. Just remember, if those goofballs can do it....
4. Try to envision the bend needed coming off the front cylinder head. Get a chop saw and start cutting your first bend for the down tube and then get the front down tube welded to the flange. Insert the inner header and build the front pipe from there by TACKING the pipe only. Make sure to give some clearance when you get down around the Cam Cover because once you start welding the pipe will move and tweak. Mine is very tight against the cam cover and, I actually removed my compression release cover and painted the innards black to make it work.
5. Continue to build the front pipe all the way back from there TACKING everything in place. Test fit entire pipe again and remove.
6. Build the rear pipe with the same workflow, using as much of the inner as you can for compression. This one is tougher because it's shorter. I actually welded the inner to to flange as well. Tack your pieces together. Test fit and remove
7. WELDING the finished pipe is easy but you want to use two vices if possible to keep the heat from tweaking the pipe. If not, make more tacks around the pipe until you're sure it won't move when you go all the way around. If you have a Friend or a Fredler, he may be able to help.
8. Test fit the finished product and adjust.
9. Use some standard steel mounting tabs from a fab store or hardware store. Match up to original mounting holes for exhaust and rear peg mounts in the vicinity.
10. Install and test baffles (if desired). If you have baffles that are too long for the pipe here's what you can do. Cut to desired length and then create your own flange/flow ramp with a rubber mallet and a block of wood. Get creative and remember, no one will see this but you so have fun beating the hell out of it.
YOU'VE NOW CREATED AN EXHAUST!!
11. Painting and Wrapping supplies on the cheap- Make sure to get 2 cans of VHT 1500 (or higher) degree temp paint. 1000-1300 will burn off and blister. For wrapping, just get the 2 inch black wrap off ebay for cheap. 50ft rolls can be bought for $15.
12. Before you paint, you should mount up the pipes in full and check for exhaust leaks.
13. PAINTING AND WRAPPING instructions- Paint the headers as best you can inside and out. Let dry. Wet the header wrap with water, this will help it stretch. Wrap pipes leaving at least a 1/2 inch overlap. Use a heat gun to dry or let dry overnight. Repaint entire pipe and wrap together as one. Let dry.
REMEMBER: IT IS EXREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOU WRAP YOUR PIPES. IT NOT ONLY PROTECTS YOURSELF FROM BURNS BUT CONCEALS YOUR CRAPPY WELDS. IF YOUR OR YOUR FRELDER KNOW HOW TO MAKE "DIMES" ON YOUR WELDS, GREAT, MINE CAN ONLY BE DESCRIBED AS RABBIT TERDS.
14. Install your pipes on the bike and make sure nothing is binding or rubbing.
15. Take the bike out side. Start the bike up. After about 15 seconds, they will start smoking like crazy. This is normal and will stop after the first ride. If you go out and ride, people will stare when you come to a stop and you're smoking but who cares....What I like to do is hop off the bike ala Ricky Bobby and run around screaming "Help me Tom Cruise, help me Oprah!" like I'm engulfed in some invisible ethanol fire. Always gets a laugh. Ah, the memories...anywho, where were we..
16. You will most likely want to pull the pipes off and repaint every 3000 miles are so just to keep the rust off. Mine have about 4000 miles on them and I've only had to repaint a couple of times for looks.
SOUND- These can be very loud if you leave them wide open with no baffles. However, in my neighboorhood, I found that to make the pipes even quiter (to avoid police) I packed my baffles with fiberglass like on a dirtbike. Most people are amazed at the sound with how large the diameter of the pipes but when I get on it, it's loud enough!
NOTE- Be careful welding and chopping. If you use your fingers to count and do other stuff, it's best you wear gloves and protective gear. This also means, no tacking and welding without a face shield and gloves unless you have your own TV show or you're Fredler is a good one.
When you're done, hopefully yours will look like the picture below.
Best of luck!
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it till it is.