The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

All right!  Are you swapping the rear signals for led's, or are you swapping the front signals for led's?

If rear: The bulb in the headlight bucket needs to be positioned (and fixed in place) so its heat doesn't melt insulation off wires. One stock bulb (per circuit*) will do, you need a draw on the circuit to slow down the signal rate from removing the incandescent bulbs (or use a Kuryakyn LEQ).  Unless you removed the brake light, you already have a rear running light.  If you want the rear signals to be running lights also then you'd have to check the led's you bought to see if they are wired for two circuits.

If front: The bulb in the headlight bucket needs to be positioned (and fixed in place) so its heat doesn't melt insulation off wires. One smaller bulb will do, you need a circuit to drain excess power to avoid the click of death from removing the front running lights.  You might also use a Kuryakyn LEQ to maintain flash rate if desired.  You can't have red lights up front or people will think your front is your back and you are going the other way!  Many don't have front running lights but most local laws require them, its your call.  You'd have to check the led's you bought to see if they are wired for two circuits, which would give to front signals and front running lights.

A quick search for "LEQ" or "LED" or a quick run thru LIGHTS in Popular Mods will yield a lot of helpful information!

* thanks alan, I thought that was obvious but maybe it was not.

George, there are a few different ways to go about this. You could get these from custom dynamics http://www.customdynamics.com/eclipze_led__turn_signals.htm you can order them from the website (one kit is for both sides).

or

you can get this from radiantz http://www.radiantz.com/cart/index1.html?c19.html&1 same idea but a bit cheaper (you will need 2 of these, one for each side).

The LEDs you have now are a single on or off bulb (two wires from the LEDs, a+ and a-). The parts in the links above are basicly a controler so you can make them act like a dual filament bulb (constant on, then completely off). The controler has 3 wires on one end that you splice into your stock turnsignal wiring, the other end only has 2 wires that you splice into your new LEDs.

If you want them to act like running lights and turnsignals you need to get one of these controlers.   

This is what the controler looks like http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/eclipze_module.jpg

And here is where you order them http://www.customdynamics.com/eclipze_module.htm 

It sounds like you read a post by me back when I did mine Ruckus.  I bought the dual intensity relays so I could use them as running lights and turn signals but after seeing them work decided against it.  Even though there is a difference in brightness it's just not enough in my opinion to use them as both.  It's MUCH more visibly noticeable and clear when those suckers start flashing out of nowhere then going from running light to flashing.  My advice would be to just hook up the turn signals, not both.

Marco Polo:

Even though there is a difference in brightness it's just not enough in my opinion to use them as both.  It's MUCH more visibly noticeable and clear when those suckers start flashing out of nowhere then going from running light to flashing. 

 The new "eclipse" module from custom dynamics makes it so the LEDs are 100% full brightness as a running light, then when the turnsignal is switched on, it flashes from full on to full off. This way it is easily seen and you don't have the issue that you discribed.  

royale5:

This is what the controler looks like http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/eclipze_module.jpg

And here is where you order them http://www.customdynamics.com/eclipze_module.htm 

This is the way to go as long as your new LED strip doesn't draw more than 300mA

This 3-wire device operates the running lights @ 100% intensity and the turn signal from 100% to 0% (OFF) for a full contrast as stated.

My dual circuit 3-wire Kuryakyn 2372 LED rear lights operate exactly as stated above and are very visible at night. I've had nothing but positive comments from others!

You're going to need 2-Kuryakyn #4810 LEQ's to correct the flash rate unless the integrated rear taillight already has something to handle the load. If that's the case start w/ 1-LEQ

The COD (Click of Death) can be corrected in several ways. Depends if you want to use an active (incandescent bulb or relay) or passive (resistor) device. Examples: 12v - 3watt instrument bulb, horn relay or 1k - 10watt resistor. You'll need to connect any of these devices to the Blue running light wire that is available in several places on the bike. Head light, under seat or rear taillight

If interested here's some links of mine:

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626135/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626389/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602601844694/

royale5:

Marco Polo:

Even though there is a difference in brightness it's just not enough in my opinion to use them as both.  It's MUCH more visibly noticeable and clear when those suckers start flashing out of nowhere then going from running light to flashing. 

 The new "eclipse" module from custom dynamics makes it so the LEDs are 100% full brightness as a running light, then when the turnsignal is switched on, it flashes from full on to full off. This way it is easily seen and you don't have the issue that you discribed.  

royale5:

 The new "eclipse" module from custom dynamics makes it so the LEDs are 100% full brightness as a running light, then when the turnsignal is switched on, it flashes from full on to full off. This way it is easily seen and you don't have the issue that you discribed.  

Ahhh, excellent.  That sounds like a MUCH better solution then blinking 50/100% and that way you won't have to worry about not having run lights and getting ticketed for it.  What would be even more ideal still in my opinion would be the running light mode still only operating at 50% and then have the full 0 to 100% with the turn signals.  I guess that wouldn't be too hard to accomplish.  Thanks for the heads up royale5, I might have to consider that.

AlanH:

royale5:

This is what the controler looks like http://www.customdynamics.com/Images/eclipze_module.jpg

And here is where you order them http://www.customdynamics.com/eclipze_module.htm 

+1 ...

This is the way to go as long as your new LED strip doesn't draw more than 300mA

This 3-wire device operates the running lights @ 100% intensity and the turn signal from 100% to 0% (OFF) for a full contrast as stated.

My dual circuit 3-wire Kuryakyn 2372 LED rear lights operate exactly as stated above and are very visible at night. I've had nothing but positive comments from others!

You're going to need 2-Kuryakyn #4810 LEQ's to correct the flash rate unless the integrated rear taillight already has something to handle the load. If that's the case start w/ 1-LEQ

The COD (Click of Death) can be corrected in several ways. Depends if you want to use an active (incandescent bulb or relay) or passive (resistor) device. Examples: 12v - 3watt instrument bulb, horn relay or 1k - 10watt resistor. You'll need to connect any of these devices to the Blue running light wire that is available in several places on the bike. Head light, under seat or rear taillight

If interested here's some links of mine:

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626135/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602604626389/

http://flickr.com/photos/15071518@N07/sets/72157602601844694/