The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Putting some new Bling on L/S of engine. So I decided to install the 99'-03' RoadStar 33 tooth pulley (4WM-17651-00-00) and the Yammi Billet Drive Pulley Case Set (STR-5PX27-82-01) tonight at the same time. Well it was a No Go! The 33 tooth pulley is 9mm wider than the 32 tooth stock pulley. The Drive Pulley Cover sticks out too far for the Drive Pulley Case to mount.
Tomorrow I'm going to go have a machinist take 4.5mm off each side of the 33 tooth pulley, for a total of 9mm. I'm thinking a machinist could cut 4.5mm off and re-attach the outer rings that's on these pulleys.
The stock 32 tooth pulley is 42mm wide, with a 33mm inside belt run width. The 33 tooth is 51mm and 43mm respectively. The width of the RSW's belt is 29mm.
All the other L/S Covers and plates went on easily. I was just hoping to get it all done up at once. I'll be posting more pics as I go, and definately once I finish.




Both Pulleys at OEM Specification
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Another Shot of OEM Pulleys
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thats the roadstar oem pulley correct?

dont u still have to machine the back side where it mounts? so that might give ya a few extra mm

Yeah,...it's from the RoaStar 1600! I've got a plan I think to square this problem away!
Once the pulley is on the shaft, you put on the (Pulley Cover Mounting Plate) then the OEM washer and nut. Mount the Drive Pulley Cover to that Mount Plate, and finally the Drive Pulley Case.

Actually the fix is very easy. Just take off the inner ring and leave the outside ring as is. I did the same and run that setup for many thousand miles until I switched to the chain drive. Just be aware that the pulley is hardened steel. I went trough a couble of carbide bits on my lathe until I was able to take about 2 mm off the inside once the ring was gone.

You will not need to re-attached the inside ring. In fact all the after market pulleys come without the inside ring.

Hope this helps!

Frankenstein,...I remember a post of you talking about the Yammi Billet Drive Pulley Case Set once. In fact that's what made me decide to go with Yammi's instead of a Baron's. The Yammi stuff just fits better.

Yes it worked great but I had the Barons naked pulley cover installed on mine without problems.

Thanks Oliver...You are the man! Appreciate your help. Hope all goes well with your move.

The Baron's 31 tooth fit right up to mine also. It didn't have the inner flange either. Belt tracks just fine.

Took my 33 tooth pulley (per Frankensteins' instructions) to a machine shop and he removed the inner ring plus a little bit, so that it was the same depth as the std. 32 tooth pulley. Works great.

I'll be getting mine back tomorrow from the machinist. I'll post some pix of what we're doing. He had some time to waste on it. I shared my idea with him. We'll know for sure tomorrow 4/06.

You are very welcome!

Before and after 33 tooth drive pulley mod. They are the same width now with both rings/flanges intact. Machinist did a fine job. I could have gotten by by just cutting off the back side ring, plus about 3-5mm more of pulley. I just wanted it to be perfect. I'm freaky like that. 1st pic is a before pic. now my Drive Pulley case Set is installed as it should be.





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Picture of both pulleys after machinist made the 33 tooth the same width as 32 tooth Stocker, with new paint as well !
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Metrickkruzer, would appreciate the following info:

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Is it necessary to machine the center portion of the pulley where the splines reside? (HUB thickness of pulley)

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The Adapter Plate for the Chrome Pulley Cover looks like it displaces the counter-bored middle shaft crush washer and retaining nut. Did you reverse nut so that you maintained adequate thread engagement?

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Was it necessary to change the drive belt with the larger pulley and if so what are the specs?

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The flange ring was re-welded?

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My compliments for your very respectable and detailed modification of a very critical part. It's obvious that you are a purist!

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Originally posted by metrickkruzer

33 Tooth Pulley and Drive Pulley Case Set: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/12159/99538.aspx#99538

Before and after 33 tooth drive pulley mod. They are the same width now with both rings/flanges intact. Machinist did a fine job. I could have gotten by by just cutting off the back side ring, plus about 3-5mm more of pulley. I just wanted it to be perfect. I'm freaky like that. 1st pic is a before pic. now my Drive Pulley case Set is installed as it should be.

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Hey AlanH,....It is not necessary to remove any material from center of the pulley. The factory belt works perfectly.The drive Pulley Mount Plate slides over the splines flush with Pulley, it has nuts welded to inside of Mount Plate. You then place the OEM locking washer as it came from factory. There was no need to turn the 36mm nut around because I had equal amounts taken from both sides to make the 33 tooth Drive Pulley the exact same width with both flanges/rings intact. The machinist welded them back on and balanced the Pulley. Pulley is same width, just larger in diameter.
Then make sure you torque the 36mm nut to 72 ft.lbs. According to the Yamaha spec. sheet( I torqued mine to 110 ft.lbs. )
The Drive Pulley Cover then mounts to the mount plate with bolts provided with kit. Torque to 7.2 ft. lbs. I used loctite on every bolt. Then finally I installed the Drive Pulley case. I loctited those as well, same torque..7.2 ft.lbs. The case lines up on the belt tension roller pins "(minus the white plastic rollers) Don't ask me how I know this"!
Hope this helps. Very simple once the Pulley was modified. Thank You for your appreciation of a fun and exciting project.
I spent a little extra helping the machinist feed his family, but I got exactly what I wanted and I'm very satisfied it is perfect and safe. As my Father used to say "It just takes a little bit more to go 1st class"

Not sure on the how much space there is on the back side on a warrior pulley with the swap but the Warrior seems to use a thicker collar behind the pulley and you may be able to just get the thinner R* collar and everything might line up just fine. The collar is what the pulley sits against when you tighten it all down.