AlanH:
parkinglot:
SWODude: I wired it by splicing one of the wires into the rear light wire and grounded the other wire around one of the license plate bolts.
why didnt you use the original license plate light wire??
+1 ... unless the previous owner of SWODude's bike cut the 2-license plate wires (blue & black), the bullet female connectors would be available.
The Yamaha fender harness originates under the seat w/ a 5-pin connector. The single GRND wire is branched at the taillight as is the license light. Yamaha wiring methodology/practice is to use a Hard Wire GRND for all connections. Wiring the GRND under the license plate screw/chassis is not a secure and long lasting connection because of corrosion and vibration IMO. The use of dielectric grease will enhance this type of connection.
FYI, there are only 2-chassis GRNDs used on the Warrior discounting the battery. The Starter Motor & the Neutral switch all other connections are hard wired 
I get what you're stating, but the fact is that the frame utilizes LEDs, which draw a smaller current than an incandescent bulb. Also, the Radiantz frame's wires are pretty long, about 8 inches. I stripped a considerable portion of one of the wires (about 6 inches, and even cut a few inches) and then wrapped it several times around the bolt. I also used the clear Locktite (which is mostly silicone) and screwed the nut on. I'll take a picture to post if you'd like. It's been working for me. If it eventually corrodes, I'll fix it. The reason the ground works is because the fender eliminator is bolted to the fender, which is bolted to the frame. No smoke and mirrors here. And yes, the previous owner completly bungled the wiring. I had the bike not even two weeks and my speedo and tach shut off. Upon coming home, I looked in the fuse box and saw the fuse had blown. I then checked the wiring and, sure enough, two of the wires had drooped and the tire chafed them. The wiring was a mess of electrical tape and wire nuts. So I went through it and cut and stripped the end of every wire. I then soldered and heat-shrinked connectors to the ends. I followed up by zip-tying the wires together to keep them from ever contacting the tire. If you're going to join wires, at least do it correctly (this is the Sailor coming out in me; we NEVER authorize the connecting of wires with electrical tape or wire nuts on our ships - we even ban two-pronged devices like irons! We join wires with solder and heat-shrinked tubing.). Interestingly, I wasn't even mad about redoing the wiring. I was more irrated that the previous owner had bungled the wires for the sake of installing $15 POS cat-eye signals.