The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Things you will need:

1)Carlini Super Sweeper Bar Product# MSS150-9 (Carlini also offers a Clean Sweeper Bar that has less pullback)- do not buy their handle bar bushings, they will not fit.

2)Socket Head bolt (1/2" - 13  2" or 2 1/2") not included- I got away with using 2" but it's pretty short, if I had to guess I'd say only 1/2" is screwed into the bar

3)36mm Socket (to remove steering stem nut)

4) 1/2 inch or larger drill bit

5) solder iron and 18-20 gauge wire to extend wires (stock length will not make it)

6) dremel with a cut-off wheel (remove tab on rear of right handle bar switch cover)

 Installation Steps:

1) Remove Handlebar (section 4-69 in Service Manual) hint- get some soapy water until left handlebar grip and it'll slide right out

2) Remove Headlight and meter assemblies (section 3-5 in Service Manual) this will make removing lower handlebar holder easier, also will be needed to internally wire the bars.  Unplug all quick connects, and draw out the wires going to right and left handle bar switches( which will be internally wired)

3) Remove steering stem nut (need 36mm Socket), remove upper triple tree, then remove upper cable guide bracket.

4) The upper cable guide bracket is just smaller than 1/2 inch, so you'll have to use a 1/2 inch drill bit to enlarge the hole so the 1/2" bolt will fit through.

5) Reinstall Upper cable guide bracket, Upper triple tree and Steering stem nut.

6) Internal wiring:  I cut across the wires a few inches from the left and right handlebar switch quick connects and pulled the wires through with the draw strings provided (was pretty easy actually) then spliced 8" more wire length (11 wires left switch, 6 wires right switch) before soldering the quick connects back on.Then I used electrical tape to wrap the wires from the handlebar exit hole to the quick connects.

http://s416.photobucket.com/albums/pp244/charleschiang/?action=view&current=0818082323.jpg

In the picture above, the black bracket is the backside of the right switch cover, my soldering iron is pointing to a tab you need to shave off before reassembling the right side handlebar switch cover

7) Bolt the Carlini handlebar onto the bike with the 1/2 socket head screw.

8)If using the stock Clutch perch this part is tricky there are a few threads here where people have broken theirs trying to get it back onto aftermarket bars. It is tight! I basically wedged a flat head screwdriver into the open space to create more room and used a rubber mallet to hammer it all the way to the end.  It's tight at the beginning and where the cut out begins but it will go.  I went pretty gentle so took me about 15-20 minutes of gentle hammering.  I just didn't want to break it.

9) the rest of the Handlebar reassembly is pretty straight forward

10) reconnect all the quick connects reinstall headlight and meter assemblies.

Photos:  Photos of install are shown with Kuryakyn Master Cylinder Covers , Kuryakyn Clutch Perch Cover, Show Chrome Accessories Chrome Switch Box Housings; stock mirrors, grips, clutch and brake levers.

http://s416.photobucket.com/albums/pp244/charleschiang/?action=view&current=0820081645.jpg 

http://s416.photobucket.com/albums/pp244/charleschiang/?action=view&current=0820081643.jpg

Notes:

1)Stock clutch cable, stock throttle cables, and stock front brake line used (the brake line couldn't be run through the wire guide at the right fork cap bolt because it's too short)

2) if using Kuryakyn's chrome clutch perch cover, don't cinch it down too tight, on my first ride it was binding to my clutch and I couldn't shift, so I had to pry it off to make some room.

Last impressions:  I love the way this new bar looks especially with the chrome switch housing and chrome clutch perch and master cylinder cover.  I'm still waiting for my new grips and mirrors to arrive.  The only thing I don't like it that it covers the speedo which I new going in because of other posts.  I am 5'9" and this is my view of the speedo.  I may consider an after market digital speedo.  Also planned is replacement of front and rear brake line.

http://s416.photobucket.com/albums/pp244/charleschiang/?action=view&current=0820081646.jpg

Thanks for the writeup.

I use a 30W $20 soldering gun for all wires on my Warrior. I got it at Sears. It is small, easy to handle and heats pretty well to make a nice silver connection surrounding perfectly the 2 wires. If the soldered point looks gray (not shiny silver), there is a big chance that the contact between wires turns into a resistor... not allowing the current to pass at the proper voltage. Plus, in time it can break or corrode even faster.

To hold the wires better while soldering (and rest the gun), I use a helping hands soldering aid:

I got it for $8 at local electronics store. This stand does keep the 2 wires tight and will help a lot to make a perfect soldering point.

I usually cover evenly with a little solder each stripped area of the wire. Before I clamp them, I insert on one side a piece of shrinking tube. Then I clamp the wires, sticking against each others. While heating both wires at the same time, I add a little extra solder and voila, a nice perfectly shaped soldering point is revealed. I let it cool down on itself, I don't blow on it. I add a little dielectric grease on top of the solder point and shrink the tube with a heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun, you can always use the actual solder gun, it works wonders. Just move it slightly fast under the wire while is very close to the tube, it will shrink like magic.

That is some great advice. My solder was shiny (mostly) during my install. I twisted the wires together, soldered, then put heat shrink tube around the connection. I took my bike out the following day and it held to together :)

I like the helping hand device and will definitely go out and purchase one for my next soldering job. You don't even want to know what I used as my soldering table.

Reading you instructions really made me feel like a lazy ass, thanks!

TECK:

To hold the wires better while soldering (and rest the gun), I use a helping hands soldering aid:

 I got it for $8 at local electronics store. This stand does keep the 2 wires tight and will help a lot to make a perfect soldering point.

I usually cover evenly with a little solder each stripped area of the wire. Before I clamp them, I insert on one side a piece of shrinking tube. Then I clamp the wires, sticking against each others. While heating both wires at the same time, I add a little extra solder and voila, a nice perfectly shaped soldering point is revealed. I let it cool down on itself, I don't blow on it. I add a little dielectric grease on top of the solder point and shrink the tube with a heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun, you can always use the actual solder gun, it works wonders. Just move it slightly fast while is very close to the tube, it will shrink like magic.