The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

my buddy won a 2008 Dyna wide Glide in May in a raffle.  As soon as I bought my Warrior he has been on me to "prove itself".  Last night we got our chance.  1/4 mile, flat,  and 15 harley lovers watching.  Both reaction times almost identical.  I lost the first by 1/4 bike length.  won the 2nd and 3rd by only 1/2 a bike.  Like I said both reaction times were solid and even.  the first race, he got a better lock up off the line, and I hit the rev in first.  next  2 were almost a perfect ride.  only mod I have is cobra slash cut pipes.  his only mod is slip on V&H pipes.  It was fun, but I thought this Warrior was claimed to be "Fast" .  I  I looked up the specs on his harley 1/4 mile time a it is 13.5s.  So something must not be right.  if this is a "super cruizer"  it should not have a race that close with a harley.  I bumped up the co1 and co2 on the ecu to +6 upon reccomendations, and found I lost a noticable amount of acceleration.  I lowered them to +3 on both.  got better but not as good as the co1 at 0 and the co2 at -3.  Do I need to do the V-bak and PCIII?  I have a 74 fxe1200 harley that has the screamin Eagle package, and it will barley keep up with him, but read everywhere on this site, before buying this bike, that is was a harley killer.  are there any free mods to make it better, and if not what is my best bang for the buck?  I plan on embarrising the hell out of him next time, or looking at a mean streak or v rod.   HELP ME!!!!  PLEASE!!!!!  cant handle almost losing to a harley again!!!

yeah, get a mean streak - that'll learn 'em....

Change to a 2 into 1 exhaust. Definatly get the V-BAK and pc3 and look at getting a custom map. One easy thing to do is put a 31 tooth front pully on but just sure you get a steel one. That combo will get you running good until you are ready to toss in some higher compression pistons, bumpy cams the other goodies to turn your warrior into a vrod killer. I have 2 to 2 sampson pipes that where on when I bought it. They do look and sound good but know they are definatly hurting my power. After a list of must do mods I am getting through I am definatly going with a 2 to 1 system.

you increased both cylinders by 6 points?  You had to have been runnin crazy rich.  My factory number are (Co1: -4/Co2:-5).  I installed a rodhouse slip-on and increased my numbers by two (Co1: -2/Co2: -3).  It runs great. More acceleration, quicker revs(due to the pipe im sure).

Increaseing each cylinder by 6 is alot.   Just play with it, trial and error.  But make certain that you increase both cylinders evenly.   If youre original setting are  (Co1:0/Co2:-3) make sure you just ad or subtract the same amount from each.  Co2 will need to be three less than Co1 or you will be running uneven and will loose power.

Good luck

There's always some other faster bike.  Then Warrior's potential as a drag racer was proven for years in ProStar.  There's a ton of improvements you can consider in the Popular Mods post (see my sig below for link). 

BTW the 2008 Dyna Wide Glide is 96ci with 9.2:1 compression and its under 700 pounds.  In a straight  line it's very equal to the stock Warrior except it maxes its available 92# torque at just 3,000 rpm.  It cannot be modified as easily or to the extent the Warrior can be modified AND it won't enter and exit the twisties like the Warrior.  Its 6-speed gearbox has some advantages on the freeway.

Your pipes maybe causing some power loss and you still beat him. V&H Propipe, Churchkey VBAK and Power Commander III with a custom map seems to be the best power combo without engine work. Also what is the weight difference between yourself and the other rider? Also get rid of the AIS, reflectors and any other unneeded parts that can lighten the load.

Here you go:

1)  AIS Block-off kit ------------------------------------------------------------$  18.00
2)  BAK (Big Air Kit) -----------------------------------------------------------  233.00
3)  V&H ProPipe ----------------------------------------------------------------  400.00
4)  V&H Competition Baffle -------------------------------------------------   ?????
5)  31 tooth pulley (steel) ----------------------------------------------------  171.00
6)  Power Commander III USB ---------------------------------------------  315.00
7)  Get a custom map dynoed in for the above. ---------------------  250.00

That's a good start.

Now if you're running your Cobras without baffles, that's part of the problem. If so and you like the Cobras you can restore the required backpressure for proper performance and keep the open pipe sound with Thunder Monster Baffles. They just flatout work and are a lot less expensive than a new exhaust system. will they produce the same performance as the V&H ProPipe? No, but if you're looking to do this in stages, I'd do it in this order:

1) AIS
2) BAK
3) Thunder Monster Baffles
4) 31 tooth pulley
5) Adjust your ECU to match what you have
6) PC III (and download a predetermined map from Dynojet or this site)
7) V&H ProPipe w/competition baffle
8) Download another map to match your new configuration
9) Custom Map

gorrilla:

my buddy won a 2008 Dyna wide Glide in May in a raffle.  As soon as I bought my Warrior he has been on me to "prove itself".  Last night we got our chance.  1/4 mile, flat,  and 15 harley lovers watching.  Both reaction times almost identical.  I lost the first by 1/4 bike length.  won the 2nd and 3rd by only 1/2 a bike.  Like I said both reaction times were solid and even.  the first race, he got a better lock up off the line, and I hit the rev in first.  next  2 were almost a perfect ride.  only mod I have is cobra slash cut pipes.  his only mod is slip on V&H pipes.  It was fun, but I thought this Warrior was claimed to be "Fast" .  I  I looked up the specs on his harley 1/4 mile time a it is 13.5s.  So something must not be right.  if this is a "super cruizer"  it should not have a race that close with a harley.  I bumped up the co1 and co2 on the ecu to +6 upon reccomendations, and found I lost a noticable amount of acceleration.  I lowered them to +3 on both.  got better but not as good as the co1 at 0 and the co2 at -3.  Do I need to do the V-bak and PCIII?  I have a 74 fxe1200 harley that has the screamin Eagle package, and it will barley keep up with him, but read everywhere on this site, before buying this bike, that is was a harley killer.  are there any free mods to make it better, and if not what is my best bang for the buck?  I plan on embarrising the hell out of him next time, or looking at a mean streak or v rod.   HELP ME!!!!  PLEASE!!!!!  cant handle almost losing to a harley again!!!

Yours will be faster next week---when his is broken.  How does he get traction with all the oil leaks?  Just kidding, I actually really like harley, but the warrior is a better all around bike IMO.

You ask about using your Warrior to perform in a drag race but you start out with Cobra pipes??  WTF!!  Cobra has never been a performance pipe, and adding +6 on the ECU WTF!!! , well those are two strikes against you when it comes to performance. I don't know if your serious about getting another bike to go faster or not.  But if you have the $$ to get another bike then I don't understand why you would of purcahsed Cobra pipes.

Do you know how to up shift without using a clutch once you are past the 1-2 gear change?  If not learn it, because it is something the Warrior can do that a HD can not.  It will save your clutch, does not hurt the tranny, and helps in a drag race. 

Are you running 87 octane?  If your using higher octane then your losing HP. 

Do you know how to do a burn out in order to clean your tire of dirt and oil prior to a drag race?  Even a little scratch to clean the tire prior to a drag race helps with traction.  

So many things you have not told us, so many things can make you faster in a race.  For the record, I have run across many fast HD's, they are not as slow as many on this board like to say they are.  

Everybody is bustin on him for +6 on the CO. Shorty drags without baffles need a lot of fuel. Some are running + 14 or better with those pipes & an air kit.

Backing off the CO = leaning it out which we all know makes more power (well--some of us know that) & will work for a blast through the traps but will probably cause detonation on a long ride.

 gorrilla, suggest tuning the CO by plug color. Check after a 20 minute ride. Just pull the 2 left side plugs & tune as necessary. All Warriors are not created equal.

The problem is your pipe. I would be willing to bet that the race would not even be close if you back to the stock configuration. If all you want to do is beat harley you can do that with a stock warrior. If you want to smoke him give churchkey a call.

I found the Warrior to be very slow comming off my R1.  I got it to the point of being ok but now i have a stage 4 to put in which should help a lot.  I would be careful of who you pick to race with your current set up.  Best bang for the buck is a pro-pipe, BAK, PC111.  I noticed a big improvement with these mods and say good buy to 90% harleys.

megawatt:

Do you know how to up shift without using a clutch once you are past the 1-2 gear change?  If not learn it, because it is something the Warrior can do that a HD can not.  It will save your clutch, does not hurt the tranny, and helps in a drag race

This can make a huge difference in a drag race....! 

aznwrr:

megawatt:

Do you know how to up shift without using a clutch once you are past the 1-2 gear change?  If not learn it, because it is something the Warrior can do that a HD can not.  It will save your clutch, does not hurt the tranny, and helps in a drag race

 

 

This can make a huge difference in a drag race....! 

+1