The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

You know something popped into my empty head the other day.  DOH!  I realized how many members have solved disassembly problems by thinking outside the box to find a tool for the job.  For example - a plug socket can be used to pull the front axle.  That is so cool to me.  I'd almost bet I've jotted notes in my service manual for every re-purposed and make-do tool I've run across in these topics, even if I haven't used it yet.  This site brings some real talent together, its amazing.  

Nobody wants to buy a special wrench to remove the rear axle when the exhaust is in the way so (was it AlanH?) invented the necesasary flat wrench.  It got me to thinking if you'd all mind very much posting the tools you know about in one spot.  It would be great to have a place to go and find the unanticipated tool to save the day.  It really would. 

 I use a "threaded connector nut" for the front axle tool.  $1.89 at Ace Hdwe, Lowes or Home Depot.  Fits in the tool pouch too.  Must fit into a 3/4" or 19mm wrench for the right size.  

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm187/WarriorDog/90268a037_120.gif

Threaded connector nut

If you have some hardware in your shop or at work a 1/'2" bolt with 2 nuts jammed together or one welded to the thread also works well.

To remove the transfer case fill plug without removing the exhaust score a large flat washer & cut about 3/8" of it off. Stick it in the slot & use an adjustable wrench on it. Put duct tape around the pipe in the area you are working.

To remove the clutch basket: Use the retaining ring as a template on a 2' long piece of 3/8 plywood. Hole saw the center big enough for your socket to fit through & drill for the mounting bolts. Attach to the clutch basket using the original bolts.

When checking or changing the valve lash balance use 2  of .004 feeler gauges one under each rocker arm. Adjust so both feeler gauges have the same amount of drag on them when the lock nut is tightened.

 I keep a 16oz. ball peen hammer handy for those jobs where all other tools fail.  Helps greatly in situations where parts just don't want to go back together. 

Churchkey:

If you have some hardware in your shop or at work a 1/'2" bolt with 2 nuts jammed together or one welded to the thread also works well.

To remove the transfer case fill plug without removing the exhaust score a large flat washer & cut about 3/8" of it off. Stick it in the slot & use an adjustable wrench on it. Put duct tape around the pipe in the area you are working.

To remove the clutch basket: Use the retaining ring as a template on a 2' long piece of 3/8 plywood. Hole saw the center big enough for your socket to fit through & drill for the mounting bolts. Attach to the clutch basket using the original bolts.

When checking or changing the valve lash balance use 2  of .004 feeler gauges one under each rocker arm. Adjust so both feeler gauges have the same amount of drag on them when the lock nut is tightened.

Just goes to show how much Churchkey knows!   had to get it in before dave did...

I did the r&r on my steering stem bearings using threaded galvanized pipe with a threaded collar, threaded rod, several large bolts, thick washers, and a vise. Then I returned most the hardware after I was done too!

If I could figure out how to post up pics I could show you how. They were on the old site at one time after AlanH called me out on it.

Alternative clutch basket removal. If you have an impact wrench, you can remove and replace the clutch basket with the impact wrench and your hand. Torque isn't really an issue if your using one of these.

Wire coat hangars are great for running wiring through small areas, like down the seat tube if you're replacing the CPS sensor, or for doing clutch cover removals. Also good for rerunning them in the casing for your haldlebar harness.

An Extendable Magnet!!!

This is useful for getting dropped screws and bolts all over the bike where your hands can reach. AND in retrieving, an alignment pin that has fallen into the bottom end of the motor during a rebuild

ONAGER:

An Extendable Magnet!!!

This is useful for getting dropped screws and bolts all over the bike where your hands can reach. AND in retrieving, an alignment pin that has fallen into the bottom end of the motor during a rebuild

Matt, I hadn't even read this yet and knew what you posted already. LMAO!!!

Not really a SPECIAL tool, but a crow foot wrench on a long extension sure makes it easy to adjust the rear axle bolts with the Big Shots in the way.

I'd like to see pictures of home-made fork tools if anyone has made any.

ONAGER:

an alignment pin that has fallen into the bottom end of the motor during a rebuild

Bet that was an "Oh Shlt" moment when it dropped

someone had a little wrench for getting the rear axle nut off without removing an exhaust pipe (in cases where the exhaust pipe gets in the way like long cannons).  I can't find that post.

Also there's this cheater: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/113187/925220.aspx

Churchkey:

If you have some hardware in your shop or at work a 1/'2" bolt with 2 nuts jammed together or one welded to the thread also works well.

To remove the transfer case fill plug without removing the exhaust score a large flat washer & cut about 3/8" of it off. Stick it in the slot & use an adjustable wrench on it. Put duct tape around the pipe in the area you are working.

I used Churchkey's idea above as inspiration for this:

1. Slide a 1 to 1.5 inch flat washer into the slot (need a washer with a decent sized center hole)

2. Put a long handled screw driver through the washer hole and use the screwdriver as leverage to turn the washer and remove the plug

Just discovered it as I was about to buy a timing plug wrench for $30. This probably isn't new but didn't find it on the board while searching.

OK, this is not an invented tool, but I think it useful due to the lack of good information available out there...

I was looking for a very accurate 0-25ft/lb torque wrench (±1% accurate, not 4) that will not break in 3 months and allow me to properly tight all bolts and nuts with low torque values, on my Warrior. After days of intensive search and talking with many bike shops, this is the tool I recommend it to everyone.