The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Another mod complete. Lowering links - DIY. All stainless with center adjuster. I had stainless hex stock kicking around to make the turnbuckles, jack screw adjuster and sleeve. Also had the bronze bushings from a previous project (I guess) for the shock spacers. Heim joints from Midwest Control, nuts from Bolt Depot. Did preadjust in a 2x6 jig. 5/16" over stock length. Had one unforeseen issue with clearance between the right side adjuster and the port/boss at the eng oil drain. A little kiss with a file gave me more clearance where the corners of the nut was really close. Still close tho. Center adjuster is convenient, easy to get to.

...can you have another go with your pics, mate...?

Sorry about the original (ginormous) pics. Resized

Yeah!!! That's better. Nice DIY mod. I was working on something similar as well. Where did you get the center adjuster...? And I assume it is left+right threaded...(?)

LH-RH threaded jack screw/adjuster thing was done on a lathe, made out of the same hex stock as the turnbuckles. They are available commercially, but I couldn't find them in stainless.   

By the way, brother from down under, happy birthday (soon). Mine's coming up as well.

I would like to do the same.  You mind sharing what size hex stock and heim bearings you used?  Thanks 

dram06war:

By the way, brother from down under, happy birthday (soon). Mine's coming up as well.

Thanks for the congrats, mate. But: Happy birthday to you first. Yours is 4 days before mine.

 Nice work!

Pm sent! 

The hex stock was .75 (3/4).  The Heim joints are 1/2-20 (.50 ID). I think the Midwest cat # is STM-8. If I were to do this again, I'd do these in metric (12), as the ID is a fit for the existing hardware. I ended up making (rolled) spacers to make up the dif between the stock bolt and the Heim joint ID. The balance of the threads can be either.  Oh, the reason I machined the jack screws as opposed to buying non-stainless was that I did not want dissimilar materials oxidizing. I didn't do an exhaustive search for these but they might be out there in stainless.

Nice job.

Thanx.

Replied

Nicely engineered, well executed and quite a work of art in Stainless Steel ..... you have skillzzzzzzzzzzz  if you did the machining and excellent photos and documentation  

Just jmy .02 and not criticism .... but why would you use Oilite bushings for the 2-static spacers that require compressive strength after going through so much trouble to make everything out of SS  

dram06war:

The bushings? Just picked out of my spare parts bin. 1" OD x .5" ID. I lucked out, they fit perfectly over the full length stainless sleeve that goes over the bolt, and the shock fits over. They were also perfect length to center the shock, certainly another area to change. Good point though. When torquing the nut/bold on the front brackets, how much of that gets transferred to the shock.

The frt shock/chassis bolt when torqued properly will apply compressive force to the new sleeve and prevent it from turning so your spherical joints, bronze bushings just help center the floating shock and i'm in error

The factory Yamaha links are a work of art IMO and very much misunderstood by the populace. They are sleeved w/split bushings and o-ring seals to maintain the lubrication and are hands down far superior to the aftermarket PCS links. That's why i had my links stretched...

Once again, neat post  

dram06war:

AlanH, 

Well, I don't know who first came up with the adjustable links but it goes without saying, they've been out there for a while. So I'll take little credit for originality. RAM396 has been building his for quite some time. A very good, proven design. I'm just sharing some ideas (and I won't even call them improvements). I'll call these prototypes with a new twist (no pun intended). If I was to build another set, I'm make some changes (noted clearance problem).

The bushings? Just picked out of my spare parts bin. 1" OD x .5" ID. I lucked out, they fit perfectly over the full length stainless sleeve that goes over the bolt, and the shock fits over. They were also perfect length to center the shock, certainly another area to change. Good point though. When torquing the nut/bold on the front brackets, how much of that gets transferred to the shock.

Regarding my machining skillz. I have a few. Rusty however. In my past life I was a tool and model maker. It's been 20 years since I last single pointed threads on a lathe. Since owning this bike and doing some of these mods, I'm giving serious thought again to picking up a milling machine and a lathe instead of going to my buddies all the time. My shop full of woodworking/cabinet making equipment doesn't cut it sometimes.

NOTE: Speaking of RAM396: I did start some dialogue with him regarding sharing of ideas. The last thing I want is to infringe on someone else.

When I first thought about changing the original design I put the parts list and supplier I used up for everyone to see so I kind of figured it would only be a matter of time before other members made them themselves. I've been accused in the past for stealing the design witch I never took credit for in the first place. I was just trying to make it easier to adjust because the front jam nut way up to the front of the shock assembly in the original design looked like it would be a PITA to get a wrench on and at $240 was way over priced. I was also kicking around the idea of using a jack screw for the adjustment point but wanted to keep the number of parts needed to a minimum so I could keep the price down if I ever decided to sell them. 

 The design was not mine to steal so no apology's are necessary and you can make them any way you want without needing my or anyone else's approval in my opinion.  I started making these as a cheaper alternative to what was out there and to help out the members.

Great work by the way!!!  I only wish I had a lathe to piddle with!!