The Yamaha Road Star Warrior Forum

Here's the scoop.  I am removing my foot brackets to get them chromed.  The right side came off fairly easily.  The left side I can't get to budge.  The 2 hex bolts that connect to the frame are the ones that are giving me problems.  Plus they are starting to strip.  I tried to heat them up with a heat gun (low setting) but no luck.  Does anyone have a suggestion?

PB Blaster?  Not sure what that is or where to get it.  Let me know so I can give it a whirl.

also get PB Blaster at Advance,Autozone,PepBoys.I have never failed to remove nuts and bolts with this stuff. It's awesome!

I used a 6mm - 3/8 drive socket with a 1/2" adapter attacehed to a 16" 1/2' drive breaker bar.

That did the trick on the right side - - not my left either. So I got out the 30 year old Craftsmen 8" long hand held / manually operated impact tool. Its the kind you beat on the back end with a 48oz. ball peen hammer as you are acutally trying to remove the bolt in the normal left hand (counter clock) rotation. It took be 5 or 6 whacks before they began to move. Must have been initially factory fit with serious torque - toughest bolts I have ever removed without pneumatic power tool  assistance.

Okay here is the update.  I went out and bought some PB Blaster, and impact wrench.  I let the PB Blaster soak over night and went to get the footbracket off and low and behold the damn thing rounded off.  SO here I am with 1 foot bracket off and one that is stuck on by a mystical force with rounded hex head nuts.  Can somebody please help with this?  I need to get this part off so I can send it to the chromer.  Any ideas, solutions?

Dier need of help!

I'm no mechanic and I'm sure some are soon to elaborate but, when I've gotton to that point in the past with tough bolts it's usually the "out with the drill" advice.

CBushmaker I feel your pain. The same happened to me when I was installing a peg extension kit. 2 of the 4 came off ok the other 2 were a biotch. Tried all the suggestions noted above and stripped the hex round like you did. Well actaully after realizing I wasnt going to reuse the bolts I used a dremel with a metal cut off wheel and cut a notch across the head of the bolt big enough to get a very large screw driver into the notch and then put a large cresent wrench on the screwdriver and with the help of a friend holding the screwdriver I tapped the wrench with a hammer and after several firm taps it finally loosened. The other bolt which was on the same bracket I just pulled up on the bracket and pushed back down and repeated a couple times and this loosened the bolt enough to use the hex socket.

I tried drilling first, total waste of time and very frustrating. I dont know what they are made of but dull good drill bits very quickly. Whoever designed those large bolts with such a small allen size needs to be fired.

Listen to Jimmy2......I actually cut the first head all the way off with a cut-off wheel on my grinder then wrestled the entire bracket around to get the second bolt to loosen.  In the process, I cut into the bracket from several directions!!!!  Wish I had asked for advice on the best damn 4m.

Thanks Jimmy I will give it a shot first thing in the morning

jimmy2:

I dont know what they are made of but dull good drill bits very quickly. Whoever designed those large bolts with such a small allen size needs to be fired.  

This specific Yamaha button hd scr uses a std 6mm hex key 

M10-1.25p x 50mm Long Yamaha Button Head Steel. This will be very tough to get @ 50mm unless you order from dealer (2 of 92014-10050-00 - BOLT, BUTTON HEAD @ $1.90ea.)

I would suggest using anti-seize on these bolts and torque to factory spec of 35 ft~lbs max. The location of these bolts make them vunerable to corrosion & road trash because they are th'd through the frame and exposed on the inside. I always clean the thd's before reassembly.... Just my .02

What type of anti-seize do you recommend?

The anti seize AlanH is talking about is I beleive made by Permatex.  In a silver can with a cap that has a brush attached to it. The actual liquid is silver. Many mechanics use it on spark plugs in aluminum heads.